Tu24 Dcom Carbs

[205Rallee 59]

Has anyone out there got an idea what are the correct float levels for the DCOM carbs?

[christopher 5 1 Cars]

13.5mm from the top of the float (the weber emblem) to the bottom of the cover.

 

 

This is for the black plastic floats types. (Some of the earlier AX Sports have brass floats Can't be 100% sure for these)

[205Rallee 59]

13.5mm from the top of the float (the weber emblem) to the bottom of the cover.

This is for the black plastic floats types. (Some of the earlier AX Sports have brass floats Can't be 100% sure for these)

 

Thanks Christopher. Mine has funny black square shaped floats not the round ones I ws expecting.

 

Just had it on the rolling road and as well as the floats being a different levels it had air correctors of 135, 135, 165 and 180! It was running very rich in the mid range and the power just dropped off from 2,000 -5,000rpm. Have got 3 full sets of air correction jets at 135, 145 and 155. Back to the rollers on Friday to have another go.

 

After 5,000rpm it pulls like a train.

 

Having rebuilt the engine, I wrapped the CSC manifold and it has really reduced the under bonnet temperature and the noise levels are much reduced.

[christopher 5 1 Cars]

Thanks Christopher. Mine has funny black square shaped floats not the round ones I ws expecting.

 

Just had it on the rolling road and as well as the floats being a different levels it had air correctors of 135, 135, 165 and 180! It was running very rich in the mid range and the power just dropped off from 2,000 -5,000rpm. Have got 3 full sets of air correction jets at 135, 145 and 155. Back to the rollers on Friday to have another go.

 

After 5,000rpm it pulls like a train.

 

Having rebuilt the engine, I wrapped the CSC manifold and it has really reduced the under bonnet temperature and the noise levels are much reduced.

 

I've been running a CSC for four years now. Been considering wrapping but wondering if it will rust more. I've gone back to the standard airbox setup for the moment after running an ITG.

 

What mods do you I have I forget?

 

You should also adjust the pump jets by putting a 6mm drill bit down the hole and close the flap against it. Then adjust the pump jet lever so it just touches.

 

Mine has a larger idle jet. But otherwise the rest are standard. Main circuit runs a little rich buts thats ok.. I'm running 2.7mm@TDC

Edited April 21, 2008 by christopher

[swordfish210 20]

I've been running a CSC for four years now. Been considering wrapping but wondering if it will rust more.

 

I wouldnt bother if you're using it in anything other then dry condtions. I wrapped mine and as soon as it got wet the mani just started to rust, took me ages to get the rust out of it. Also i got some mud on it once and the bloody stuff caught fire

[205Rallee 59]

I've been running a CSC for four years now. Been considering wrapping but wondering if it will rust more. I've gone back to the standard airbox setup for the moment after running an ITG.

 

What mods do you I have I forget?

 

You should also adjust the pump jets by putting a 6mm drill bit down the hole and close the flap against it. Then adjust the pump jet lever so it just touches.

 

Mine has a larger idle jet. But otherwise the rest are standard. Main circuit runs a little rich buts thats ok.. I'm running 2.7mm@TDC

 

Christopher,

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Mine has the Longman head with standard valves, valve guide bosses cut away and tapered valve guides, 4 angle valve seats, inlet manifold matched to head. Comp ratio is up from standard, Kent camPT02?, uprated valve springs, vernier pulley, CSC manifold. std bottom end with modified std.pistons and lightened billet steel flywheel. Omex mapped ignition...wish I'd got hrottle bodies at the same time!

 

I blasted then repainted my CSC manifold before wrapping it, no problrm with rust, but then my car only goes out in the summer for hillclimbs and sprints. The noise reduction is worth the risk of some rust as I can buy a new manifold but not a new pair of ears.