MrG 3 Posted April 17, 2008 At what pressure do you regards the bottom end due for a rebuild? I know the guage isn't really something to rely on but at what point on the gauge would the average owner think, time "to sort the pressure out"? Mines quite old, and has been looked after it would appear, has done a few track days now, but pressure is low and after a good number of fast (for me) laps pressure does appear to drop further, but once cooled down it goes up marginally. It sits in the lower section of the gauge most of the time, so I'll give it a service and see what happens and see if it improves, but I am thinking that I should make allowances (money wise) for a rebuild in the near future? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted April 17, 2008 Replace the oil pressure sender before even considering condeming the engine - or even better, put a proper mechanical oil pressure gauge on it and do away with the lousy Pug gauge/sender altogether. Oil pressure will always drop to a point when the oil gets hot on track, and pressure will increase when it cools down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrG 3 Posted April 17, 2008 I will do, I have one in the garage ready to go in. I've read many times that the guage in the car is not worth looking at, but I think it could now benefit from an oil change etc and a bit of a going over. Thanks Anthony for the reply. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Atari Boy 11 Posted April 17, 2008 (edited) The part number for the oil pressure sensor is 113114 and including the seal comes in at £15, I bought one yesterday. Edited April 17, 2008 by Atari Boy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jord294 92 Posted April 17, 2008 i always thought it was 1131.69 sending unit, which gave the reading in the instrument panel. iirc, they're 40 or 50 squid Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Atari Boy 11 Posted April 17, 2008 i always thought it was 1131.69 sending unit, which gave the reading in the instrument panel. iirc, they're 40 or 50 squid Sorry, I am probably confusing things, I was quoting the price and part number of the low pressure switch not the sender, which is c. £50. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VisaGTi16v 1 Posted April 17, 2008 T piece adapter ~£10, 25psi standalone warning switch ~£20, old side repeater mounted in dash with a couple of bits of wiring and job done. The standard gauges and warning light are 101% useless Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James_m 0 Posted April 17, 2008 Everybody knocks the standard gauges but its only the calibration thats suspect. If pressure suddenly drops off one week, its pretty obvious you have a problem somewhere. Im glad we have them personally. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrG 3 Posted April 17, 2008 true, it does give an indication I suppose. Other than this the car does not smoke or knock or make any unfortold noises (touching wood) so I'll keep an eye out for trouble! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted April 17, 2008 Everybody knocks the standard gauges but its only the calibration thats suspect. If pressure suddenly drops off one week, its pretty obvious you have a problem somewhere.Im glad we have them personally. They're very slow to react as well as inaccurate (well, they dont have any numbers so technically they can't be inaccurate) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt-k 0 Posted April 17, 2008 T piece adapter ~£10, 25psi standalone warning switch ~£20, old side repeater mounted in dash with a couple of bits of wiring and job done. The standard gauges and warning light are 101% useless Where can i buy the above items from? My pressure gauge moves up and down like a yo yo when the cars on tick over. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VisaGTi16v 1 Posted April 18, 2008 The standard gauge is useful as an indication thats all, the standard switch is far to slow to respond and is set to 8psi or something which is stupidly low. Your gauge should at least be stable on idle, that sounds to me like a dodgy wire, try recrimping a new plug on the end of it and cleaning up the terminal on your sender. I had the very weird situation before where mine was rock solid but under load the pressure dropped right off. Of course this led to panic but I recrimped the lead and all was fine so it obviously had an ok connection but the right current wasnt getting through! Have a look at this thread then go to the matt lewis racing link on ebay. Note that I had to get a different T piece for my block as for some reason my hole was much smaller than turbo 7379's, maybe he was using the oil switch hole whereas I am using the pressure one. You then wire one of the terminals on that switch to earth, the other into a side repeater or something in the dash then the other terminal of that light into a switched 12v, job done, got a video of mine somewhere if I can find it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
