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5150maxie

Ride Height

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5150maxie

post-7245-1208392611_thumb.jpg

where do you measure to get the ride height settings from standard to determing what i have now?

i think they were 50mm springs but i cant remember?

 

 

i am lowering there rear from standard height to suit the front.

in this pic its my old beam height which was too low.

Edited by 5150maxie

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AdamP

Get someone to measure from the centre of the wheel to the arch on their standard one, and compare it to the same measurement on yours :(

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5150maxie
Get someone to measure from the centre of the wheel to the arch on their standard one, and compare it to the same measurement on yours :)

any one help with the measurements? :D

mine is 30.5cm from centre of hub cap to arch and 58cm from ground to arch.what measurements will i need for the rear?

Edited by 5150maxie

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5150maxie

anyone help?

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pug_ham

You should be able to adjust the back to almost any mm increment adjustment on a refurbished beam so you can set it where-ever you want that looks level with the front but I'd start with approximately 300mm between shock bolt centres & go from there.

 

If you want it to match the front them you'll want a similar measurement floor / wheel centre to arch but it depends how you want it to look when finished.

 

Graham.

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huckleberry

Judging from the pics I'd say about as low front end as mine and I use -50mm Merwede springs on my Yellow Koni's.

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Dan Ingram
You should be able to adjust the back to almost any mm increment adjustment on a refurbished beam so you can set it where-ever you want that looks level with the front but I'd start with approximately 300mm between shock bolt centres & go from there.

 

If you want it to match the front them you'll want a similar measurement floor / wheel centre to arch but it depends how you want it to look when finished.

 

Graham.

 

I thought you could only adjust the rear beam by splines, I didn't realize you could do it by such small increments. How do you do that?

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welshpug

by pulling both ends of the torsion bar out, I.E the proper way :wub:

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Dan Ingram

I didn't realize there was two different ways. Whats the in proper way of doing it?

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welshpug

 

IMO (and PSA's) that is not the correct way to do it, not only does it limit you to increments of Circa 35mm, vital pieces of information are missing that lead to premature trailing arm seal, and ultimately, bearing wear.

 

try this article; http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.ph...ge=last#1129151

 

setting the clearances to the trailing arm seal and ARB seals are vital to the longevity of the assembly, also following that guide you can effectively lower it by MM as Pugtorque mentioned.

 

I set my beam to 312mm shock bolt centres a few weeks back-

 

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f169/wel.../PICT0247-1.jpg

 

those are 185 55's, so do look quite a bit larger.

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bobob
IMO (and PSA's) that is not the correct way to do it, not only does it limit you to increments of Circa 35mm, vital pieces of information are missing that lead to premature trailing arm seal, and ultimately, bearing wear.

 

try this article; http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.ph...ge=last#1129151

 

Fine be like that! :):)

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welshpug

:)

 

sorry that came across a bit strong there! but really it is quite important to get it right.

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bobob
:)

 

sorry that came across a bit strong there! but really it is quite important to get it right.

 

No worries, I'm used to getting things wrong, hence why I always take my car to Miles! :oB)

 

You never know, I might get something right one day! :):D

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pug_ham
I thought you could only adjust the rear beam by splines, I didn't realize you could do it by such small increments. How do you do that?

You can adjust the rear ride height by any mm increment if you pull both ends of the torsion bar bar free from the radius arm & centre tube by moving / changing the distance between the shock absorber mounting bolts to give the approximate distance you want to lower the car on a 3:2 ratio (2mm change between bolt centres will ower by 3mm) then rotate the torsion bar clockwise to get the splines to align with the radius arm & centre tube. They should slide fully home using finger pressure alone (no force is needed to get them home)

 

I agree with WP, the single spline method isn't the right way. The guide on the main website isn't the best either & if you try to follow it can actually cause more confusion. Thankfully its all pretty obvious though when you try it.

 

I'm in the process of writing a new guide for the website doing it the proper way.

 

Graham.

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