skinner2k3 3 Posted April 9, 2008 I remember reading something on here (I think) where someone was talking about choosing a block for a rebuild. Have tried a search but damned if I can find it. I have 3 XU blocks to chose from for a rebuild, how do I pick the best one? Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ALEX 98 1 Cars Posted April 9, 2008 (edited) Without taking it apart a compression test would give some insight of the condition of an engine. Other than that the one with the least mileage! If your rebuilding them I'd look for the one with the least corrosion where the liners sit. I wouldn't waste time or money painting a block either it will just flake off (mine did). If your not happy with it cleaned up with a degreaser and a jet wash, send it off to be Vapour Blasted. It comes out looking like new and should only cost about £20. Edited April 9, 2008 by ALEX Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skinner2k3 3 Posted April 9, 2008 Thanks One can be compression tested, the other two are already apart. I dont know the mileage on any of them for sure so I will have to just go by corrosion of water ways like you say. Do blocks warp at all, should i be checking for flatness of the deck or anything? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ALEX 98 1 Cars Posted April 9, 2008 You can get it checked out cheap enough at any local Engineering shop if you have any doubts. What I'd do is take the head down first for a light skim, if only to clean the face up. The compession ratio is too low on the xu engine anyway. If the head showed any significant amount of warping, then I'd take the block to be checked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,541 Posted April 9, 2008 Check liner protrusion, this is quite easy with a straight edge and feeler gauges. It is a bit of a PITA to sort out so if any of the blocks don't meet spec then choose another. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skinner2k3 3 Posted April 9, 2008 Can you check liner protusion without the liner O rings fitted? I stripped down the 1600 bottom end and I can feel a lip on the thrust side so I guess they are scrap but the block might still be usefull with other liners, hence the question. Thanks, again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 586 Posted April 10, 2008 Strip the block and bead blast around the liner seats. Only then will you reveal true corrosion problems. I have a block which was softened in an engine fire. I'm waiting the six or seven years for it to age harden again! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skinner2k3 3 Posted April 10, 2008 Thats fine, can do that at work. I will have to be carefull though as I seem to remember the media we use is quite aggresive. Other than the liner seats and general corrosion in the water jackets I will check the condition on the threads and the gasket faces. Is there anything else? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ALEX 98 1 Cars Posted April 10, 2008 I have a block which was softened in an engine fire. I'm waiting the six or seven years for it to age harden again! Didn't know they did that! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skinner2k3 3 Posted April 11, 2008 Just finished stripping down the 1600 engine and once I had the bare block I noticed there are a few areas which look like they wouldnt want to see the sand blaster. Speaking of which will sand blasting do more damage than bead blasting? Should I mask off any areas before blasting? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 586 Posted April 12, 2008 (edited) Speaking of which will sand blasting do more damage than bead blasting? Should I mask off any areas before blasting? Sorry, I meant sand blasting. Just do the liner seats, avoiding all other areas. The last thing you want is grit in the oil galleries. You'll need to undo theoil gallery plugs and do a complete clean out anyhow. Two things of note happened from the fire. The head bolt threads started pulling out and the main bearing tunnels pulled in, reducing in diameter. I was getting the tunnel line bored when I discovered the head bolt problem. When doing the line boring the block needs to be tensioned as it would be completely assembled. But the threads just started pulling out. After four we gave up. They can be repaired with helicoils, no big deal. I just have to wait. In 20-30 yrs. somebody will need a block. Edited April 12, 2008 by petert Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skinner2k3 3 Posted April 13, 2008 Thanks Peter I will get the block into work asap. We have a hot tank and sand blaster so between the two I should be able to clean it up quite nicely. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ALEX 98 1 Cars Posted April 14, 2008 (edited) Sand/Shot blasting might be a little agressive, but I dont think it would damage the block. I'd protect the machined faces though. I Took mine to be shot blasted, and they suggested I paid a litttle more for it to be Vapour (glass bead) blasted. This finish is smoother and shiny, also mucky finger prints wipe off, where they don't if it was Shot blasted. Not where I took mine but the same process:- Vapour blasting Edited April 14, 2008 by ALEX Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skinner2k3 3 Posted April 14, 2008 I think I will just have to go carefull, like you say mask up the machined faces. That does look a good process though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
