Headgasket, What Parts And Tools Will I Need?

[Ben 0]

99.9% sure the headgasket is going on my '92 1.6 gti

 

So I figure I have two options:

 

1: Fix it- what parts will I need to fix it? Also is there any special tools I'll need like pulley locking pins, certain torx bits etc

 

or,

 

2: Sell it- How much am I likely to get for a '92 miami blue 1.6 gti, 97k, rediculous amounts of service history, half leather interior, 1.9 speedline alloys, new gear linkages and short shift, very nice condition and a good runner up until the last couple of weeks. But with the headgasket on its way out?

 

I havn't let it overheat so the head shouldn't of warped or anything.

 

Cheers guys any advice is much appreciated and if anyone does want it just get in touch.

 

Ben

[Baz 421]

I'll chuck you a couple of hundred for it!!

 

Seriously, it isn't that difficult, providing the headbolts and manifold nuts/studs come free without issue, you'll need to skim the head anyway really.

 

Get a HG kit, (HG, Bolts, seals etc) a cambelt kit while you're there and maybe a water pump, get the head skimmed and pressure tested for peace of mind, it's not really a massively difficult job to do.

[djinuk 2]

yea, just go for it dude, tools needed, a decent torque wrench, and socket set, a decent torx (for undoing and tightening head bolts), , gasket scraper, maybe a bit of wet and dry sand paper to get head cleaned up and block, . Nothing special really.

[Ben 0]

Right time for a few more q's then:

 

Wheres the best place to get parts from? local motor factors? peugeot?

Also will I need pulley locking pins or just line up the bottom pulley correctly and leave it alone until the heads back on?

If I get the head skimmed do the valves need removing?

From looking at autofives website the waterpumps and cambelt tensioners are available for pre and post 1992 engines, which one will i need seeing as mine is a '92?

 

Cheers and expect many more stupid questions if i do start taking things apart

Edited April 5, 2008 by Ben

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I understand your annoyance at this happening, but you'll kick yourself if you sell it on. You'll see another one drive by and go 'doh!'.

 

I encourage you - if you're that way inclined - to get hands on and learn and DIY. I'll send you a spare Haynes manual I have if you like free of charge, as the process is all laid down in there accurately and clearly. You'll be immensely satisfied when you turn the key and she runs again.

 

So my top tips are:

 

1) Commit to the car - you've invested in it; fix it

2) Get some money bags/shoe boxes & a marker pen (to label items as you remove them - also note their position)

3) Take a few photos of items & layout in the engine bay before you start

4) Get the head/gasket kit (incl sealant in a tube like silicone or Hylomar), cam belt, water pump and Torx bit (set) suitable for the head bolts etc (you can always borrow a torque wrench)

5) Buy fresh coolant & engine oil & get somewhere to drain it into

6) Read through the Haynes manual process & follow it to the letter (drill bits with tape suffice for locking pins BTW)

 

...and GO FOR IT.

 

Get a forum buddy to help out & you'll have it done in a weekend or even a day!

 

There are local, even mobile head testing and skimming places if you want the peace of mind that offers. I suspect you're looking at around £150-200 total. And your question about removing the valves for pressure testing & skimming is a good one; I don't know TBH. But what I would say is get/borrow a spring compressor and do it, so you can really refresh your head & clean up the valves, combustion chambers, inlet & exhaust gasket faces and fit new valve guides (these just press in). You'll need a set of feeler gauges for valve clearances but they're only £2.

 

Best of luck old bean, and we're always here to help .

Edited April 6, 2008 by DrSarty

[Alastairh 47]

Its all do able.

 

But there are 2 risks you may have,

 

- Cracked block. This only tends to happen if you drive the car knowing is f***ed for miles.

- Snapping a head bolt in block when undoing. - Potentially a pain in the arse, and could scrap a bottom end.

 

Unfortunalty i've had both of the above on my own cars in the last 6 months, and i've done a fair few head gaskets

 

If you feel confident in doing it, go ahead. Theres plenty of people on here that have done them (me included) to give advice, but i thought id highlight 2 problems that really could throw the spanner in the works before you get the tools out.

 

As for selling it as it is, i would be expecting around the £500 area.

 

Al

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

You can leave the valves in but the cam needs to come out to enable a skim which I would get done regardless, As Ali has said there are pit falls if it has never been done before and I will add one of the head bolt thread stripping when doing the headbolts up as the 300 odd degress in a tiny poxy thread never works all the time, A helicoil can be used to get around this thou,

Might be worth looking for a good running 1.6 as it's a simple swap, but then without knowing the history of the engine it's pot luck

[Ben 0]

I understand your annoyance at this happening, but you'll kick yourself if you sell it on. You'll see another one drive by and go 'doh!'.

 

I encourage you - if you're that way inclined - to get hands on and learn and DIY. I'll send you a spare Haynes manual I have if you like free of charge, as the process is all laid down in there accurately and clearly. You'll be immensely satisfied when you turn the key and she runs again.

 

So my top tips are:

 

1) Commit to the car - you've invested in it; fix it

2) Get some money bags/shoe boxes & a marker pen (to label items as you remove them - also note their position)

3) Take a few photos of items & layout in the engine bay before you start

4) Get the head/gasket kit (incl sealant in a tube like silicone or Hylomar), cam belt, water pump and Torx bit (set) suitable for the head bolts etc (you can always borrow a torque wrench)

5) Buy fresh coolant & engine oil & get somewhere to drain it into

6) Read through the Haynes manual process & follow it to the letter (drill bits with tape suffice for locking pins BTW)

 

...and GO FOR IT.

 

Get a forum buddy to help out & you'll have it done in a weekend or even a day!

 

There are local, even mobile head testing and skimming places if you want the peace of mind that offers. I suspect you're looking at around £150-200 total. And your question about removing the valves for pressure testing & skimming is a good one; I don't know TBH. But what I would say is get/borrow a spring compressor and do it, so you can really refresh your head & clean up the valves, combustion chambers, inlet & exhaust gasket faces and fit new valve guides (these just press in). You'll need a set of feeler gauges for valve clearances but they're only £2.

 

Best of luck old bean, and we're always here to help .

 

I am fairly hands on and have done a headgasket, cambelt and camshaft change on my old astra but that was with the guidance of my college lecturers. If I could guarantee no problems or complications would arise I'd be more than up for the challenge, its just these tales of stripped threads and snapped bolts etc that are worrying me.

 

I've got a haynes manual so no need to send yours but thank you very much for the offer. I've also got the tools I need bar the torx set and valve spring compressor.

Like I said I'd like to give this ago but don't want to get into a situation where something goes wrong and I cant fix it?

 

As you can probably tell I am very much in two minds about the whole thing!