Mi16 Help

[dcc 855]

Bought myself a 405mi16, the alloy block.

 

Need a bit of help from people here...

 

need a link to a full guide on how to do it, what needs to be changed, how much it needs to be changed by, and how to wire the 2 looms together.

 

Basically - a "how to" for a 205 mi16 conversion!

[ANDYGON 6]

im no expert but to start you off you don't join the looms its far better to use the full 405 one (and ECU)

 

 

main things you need to consider is how you are going to clear the rear bulkhead with the exhaust. personally i'd use a spacer plate.

radiator clearance at the front, depends on what you want to do. either buy a shortened inlet or hack the rad cowling or lower it.

theres a guide on the main page under articles

 

 

a search will be useful as theres hours upon hours on this.

[dcc 855]

im no expert but to start you off you don't join the looms its far better to use the full 405 one (and ECU)

main things you need to consider is how you are going to clear the rear bulkhead with the exhaust. personally i'd use a spacer plate.

radiator clearance at the front, depends on what you want to do. either buy a shortened inlet or hack the rad cowling or lower it.

theres a guide on the main page under articles

 

 

a search will be useful as theres hours upon hours on this.

 

by saying "full 405 loom"

 

what exactly do you mean?

 

rewire the entire car?

[ANDYGON 6]

no not rewire the whole car. just the engine loom. 16v management is much better than 8v.

use the search function and all will become clear.

[AdamVester 0]

im sure someone on here will do both the looms for you if your unsure.. shouldnt cost more than £50 if you send both looms. as for the rest.. you got lots of options..

main this is clearence. to get cleared of the bulkhead u got 3 options.

 

1) angel plate

2) reangle the manifold

3) smash the bulkhead

 

you could get an aftermarket one aswell but its expensive again to get it angeld it wont cost more than £50 is you send old one in.

 

um the inlet manifold has to be swaped for a shorter one again send old one off get it back shorter for around £50. or you can do what i did and drop the rad and make a bracket for it to rest on and cut the fan housing.

 

um want a cheap option... find a wireing guide put the loom together first. get yourself a big hammer take old engine out smash the corner of the bulkhead out or cut it and weld it like my convershion. that will save u a few £££ but people on here will call you a fool and shout at you for being a prat..

 

and yeah just drop the rad like i said above. nice and simple.. oh yeah use the top mi16 mount aswell. or at least thats the one i think i use.d.

 

you will also need a new throtol cable i used the 205 one but its really short. hope that helps you.

[rapidmi 4]

im sure someone on here will do both the looms for you if your unsure.. shouldnt cost more than £50 if you send both looms. as for the rest.. you got lots of options..

main this is clearence. to get cleared of the bulkhead u got 3 options.

 

1) angel plate

2) reangle the manifold

3) smash the bulkhead

 

you could get an aftermarket one aswell but its expensive again to get it angeld it wont cost more than £50 is you send old one in.

 

um the inlet manifold has to be swaped for a shorter one again send old one off get it back shorter for around £50. or you can do what i did and drop the rad and make a bracket for it to rest on and cut the fan housing.

 

um want a cheap option... find a wireing guide put the loom together first. get yourself a big hammer take old engine out smash the corner of the bulkhead out or cut it and weld it like my convershion. that will save u a few £££ but people on here will call you a fool and shout at you for being a prat..

 

and yeah just drop the rad like i said above. nice and simple.. oh yeah use the top mi16 mount aswell. or at least thats the one i think i use.d.

 

you will also need a new throtol cable i used the 205 one but its really short. hope that helps you.

 

 

number one mate take your 8v out, get yourself a ball pein hammer and knock the crap put the bulkhead, cheapest option.

 

as for the rad, sure someone on here will be able to make you a couple of brackets to lower it, when i purchased my mi it already had a shortened inlet so i never had this problem.

[hexhamstu 9]

angling plate is well worth the money. dont smash your car, its just silly.

[GLPoomobile 958]

a ball pein hammer and knock the crap put the bulkhead, cheapest option.

 

.....and let another 205 go to an early grave due to premature rust

 

I know some people will swear that there is nothing wrong with modifying the bulkhead, but generally it's the ones who have taken the time to properly cut out an area, weld in a new section, and properly seal it all up and rust proof it.

 

Even DrSarty, who recently did a bit of mild bashing to his actually made sure he took some time to seal it all up and rust proof it.

 

It would be a shame if the OP took the advice to "knock the crap" literally, and ended up having to scrap his 205 a few years down the line because his bulkhead has rusted through

 

Do the conversion on the cheap and you'll likely be chasing problems for ever more. Do the research, get professional help if need be, spend money where it counts and do the conversion properly. If you intend to keep it for a while you'll want it to last and be reliable and fun. If you don;t intend to keep it........well, no one wants to buy a bodged Mi conversion

[dcc 855]

As much as i would LOVE to take the Cheap, and easy option, of a hammer and the bulkhead, i dont think i could, not with wanting to keep this car for the for-seeable future.

 

Im interested as to what you guys mean by angling plate?? anybody got a bit more info on that? never heard about that.

 

also, getting the looms wired sounds like a good idea, and i wouldnt mind spending the money to get them sorted by someone who knows what thier doing.

 

as for this rad-lowering, does anybody have a link to somebody who sells/makes them?

[AdamVester 0]

pictures of my bulkhead and rad rust treated aswell..

 

might help.

 

mine was cut out and a new section put in set the car on fire doing it aswell lol.

 

http://www.another-site.net/adam/stuff/100_0186.JPG

http://www.another-site.net/adam/stuff/100_0191.JPG

http://www.another-site.net/adam/stuff/100_0206.JPG

http://www.another-site.net/adam/stuff/100_0207.JPG

http://www.another-site.net/adam/stuff/100_0208.JPG

 

forgot to add my bulkhead was rusty anyway so we kinda did the car a fav by cutting the rust away

[dcc 855]

cheers for that,

 

any chance of some pics of how you have mounted your rad?

 

also, did you do your loom yourself? or some one help you? or did you buy a full loom?

[24seven 104]

I'd recommend re-angling the exhaust manifold for clearance, as opposed to modifying the bulkhead or tilting the engine (especially considering the surge issue with Mi's). The re-angling plate is made by QEP and fits between the head and the standard exhaust manifold, literally re-angling the manifold so that it clears the bulkhead.

 

As for the rad clearance, I have a severely choppd down cowling and the inlet manifold still touches the rad. Try lowering it if you can.

 

Another clearance issue is the master cylinder. ultimately the best way is to source an indepedant cylinder off another car that comes with it already (don't ask me what, I still need to sort this myself). My way round was to lever the engine over slightly before tightening up the earbox mount, which has given a couple of mm more clearance, which combined with the stiff mounts should keep things under control (bear in mind this may cause a few issues with the downpipe being too far over in the tunnel and rattling against the bodywork if you have old/worn standard engine mounts).

 

Mechanically otherwise, the 1.6/1.9 8V boxes and Mi16 box are interchangeable with each other, so the driveshafts will just plug & play into whichever gearbox you use.

 

Electronically, as long as you have a full BX/405 loom with no loose ends, it's a fairly straight forward job to wire up. The engine loom is completely left alone. There are 2 brown multiplugs under the dash on the 205, and what you need to do is match the BX/405 loom to these plugs via a guide on this site (I don' know where to find it exactly, but someone will point you in the right direction).

 

Anything else you have issues with, feel free to PM me as I've not long since finished my own Mi conversion, so it's still pretty fresh in my mind.

[AdamVester 0]

i got no pics but literallt the rad sits ontop of some other pipes and is holded in anyways just welded a bracked under it and cut down the fan housing brackes from top and bottom.. put it right up against the fans (not touching with a little gap of cource) then droped the rad a little leaving the fans ware they normaly are. put the bracket under the rad to stop it falling to the ground and a few cable ties to secure the top end.. simple bodge atm but i will be making more brackets.

[smokey 0]

Here is a walkthrough i found when i started to do research for my conversion.

Its for the engine loom.

 

I'll be doing the same soon, just rebuilding the engine at the moment.

Mi_16_loom_walkthrough.doc

[SweetBadger 94]

WRT sorting out the exhaust clearing the bulkhead I've just done this for the second time as my original exhaust needed replacing: Simple and cheap option is to get a wedge plate then shorten and re-angle the downpipe.

 

- Got a wedge for about 80 quid from qep for mine.

 

- Then I simply ground off the flange from a standard downpipe where it's welded on, chopped about 2 inches out of the pipe, bolted the flange onto the manifold with the engine in situ, jacked the downpipe into place, and carefully marked where it met with the flange (slightly tricky bit, used tipex and a pencil). Once it was marked, I removed the flange from the manifold, clamped it in place and took it to a local welder who only charged 5 quid to weld it up. Bargin!

 

Only took a couple of hours to get it marked up and clamped, much easier and a far better option than buggering up the bulkhead IMO.

 

You can also get reangled manifolds for about 80quid that apparently dont require that you make any mods to the down pipe, so could be worth looking into that...