[engine_work] 2.1 S16 Build Diary

[Doof 11]

Been ages since anything happened on this, slow progress finding the time, money and information needed to carry on!

 

Anyway, final assembly should be done tonight with final prep work this weekend and installation a couple of weeks later all being well...hoping to be mapping it over the christmas break! (fat chance!)

 

Anyway, few pics for the hell of it:

 

Powder coated rocker cover with oil filler courtesy of CRF450

 

 

 

Old fuel feed...how close was it to flames?!

 

 

Also, i was lead to believe that the 306 engines didn't have an oil pressure sender...this i presume is the larger sensor on the front of the block, a round sensor bigger than the rest...did some of them actually have the pressure senders then?

 

And, what are the options for alternators? I don't seem to have any brackets for my damn alternator...anyone got one?

 

Will post back again when its all built and will keep people posted on the megasquirt progress, think this is the most important as everyones seen XU engines rebuilt time and time again

[Doof 11]

One last thing for those of you with Kaaz diffs...i needed to grind away the area shown in red below:

 

[carbers205 1]

Some 306s def had the sender, its is indeed the large white one to the left of the block.

My early 2.0xsi has one, I suspect the 6s probably did as well

 

Andy

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Some 306s def had the sender, its is indeed the large white one to the left of the block.

My early 2.0xsi has one, I suspect the 6s probably did as well

 

Andy

 

Just remember the difference between (in Peugeot terms) a 'sender' and a 'switch'.

 

The sender sends a variable, readable signal for your oil pressure gauge, whereas the switch is only off or on - lighting up the low oil pressure warning light - depending on engine oil pressure being above a certain value.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

All 8v XSi's and phase 1 GTi6's had oil pressure guages, Only the phase 2's had oil temp instead for some reason.

 

That is the area needed for some grinding

 

Alt, Should be any XU tyoe, depends what lower pulley you run

[Doof 11]

What are the options for the bottom pulley miles? Does it depend on the number of grooves or something? - wish i had kept my old engine for bits like this!

 

Sarty - both oil sender and oil switch are single pin connections right?

Edited November 26, 2008 by Doof

[Super Josh 4]

Sarty - both oil sender and oil switch are single pin connections right?

 

Yep

[Doof 11]

Finally an update. God knows what i've been doing over the last 4 months but the engine's in and mostly connected up. Just need to spend a little while longer sorting things like coolant hoses and clearance of master cylinder before moving on to the thing i'll spend most time documenting, the megasquirt installation.

 

It's finally looking like a car again:

 

Edited February 5, 2009 by Doof

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

great news Doof!

[markd6303 2]

look`s great. Bet you are looking forward to driving it !!

[nick 3]

Looks spot on Doof, we'll be racing soon

 

Nick

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I've replied to your PM Alex ref the cooling system, and your engine installation looks nice.

 

I don't wanna give you more work, but you'll lose power with the air filter on the end of the TB like that. It'll just breathe hot air there, so you could consider relocating it to get a nice cool, dense air feed, perhaps from behind the O/S headlight or even below that behind the valence.

 

This info has come from Magic in Brisbane Australia who is certainly experienced, told me and said this has been proven back-to-back on rollers.

 

If you don't re-site it, even going 'back' to a standard airbox - which doesn't sound sexy but works - you could make up some kind of heat shield underneath and to the rear of the cone, with a cold air feed pipe from the locations I mentioned above.

 

Knowing this now, it's what I highly recommend.

Edited February 5, 2009 by DrSarty

[Doof 11]

Yea i spotted your posts about that Sarty. My plan is to box the filter in with some ally sheet and run a couple of feeds from elsewhere to it to get the cool air flowing into what will effectively be an airbox. Think i'm going to lower the rad, an in fact i'm tempted by one of BBM's double radiators so i can get some nice cool air flowing straight in. Seems daft to spend all this money then skimp on something so simple as cold air feeds.

 

The race is on Nick, can't wait to see how it performs! Looking forward to seeing what a plate diff is like too

[taylorspug 7]

Dropping the rad has worked very well for me, i dont get any noticeable heatsoak and the car is generally a bit more lively than other std '6 engined cars ive tried. Also filter is always proper cold after a good long drive, so something cold must be going in! I would box mine in aswell, but the whole lots coming off soon.

[Sam 4]

That cam cover is very cool. Martin's work is really good - how's his engine going?

[nick 3]

I'll answer for Martin on this one as he doesn't come on here much now. The engine is going in his 306 track car now as he is competing in the LMA series this year. As he's struggling with time to get it ready, it will just run on the std gti-6 inlet and management at first, then on the Jenveys later in the year. It should be interesting to see what it makes power wise in the end.

 

Nick

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Looking good Lewis, Silly question for me, What is that Air Filter as I need to buy a couple soon

[Doof 11]

Miles, it's an RU-5111 (K&N part number). apparently flows enough for 248bhp and fits just right

[Doof 11]

Some fantastic progress this weekend, i'm starting to think i might turn the key within the next few weeks!

 

Everything it mounted up now and short of a few pipes it's just the electrics to sort out, which isn't looking as daunting as I first thought. Just waiting for my exhaust back from the local engineers as it needed bended slightly to give me comfortable clearance under the car.

 

I'm just sorting all the inlet manifold connections out at the minute and i've noticed I only have 2 vacuum connections. Would there be any negative effects T'ing the fuel pressure regulator off the same line as the brake servo? Would i get over/under fuelling when pressing the brakes?

 

I'll try and document the megasquirt installation for anyone interested. Everything else has been done to death before really.

[Doof 11]

Another wee update and a question. Firstly, anyone got any ideas what this is in the first picture? It goes on the throttle cable somewhere but i can't figure out where!

 

 

Also, a couple of pics of the air scoop thingy to stop hot radiator air getting to the air filter, quite proud of it to be honest:

 

 

 

And a view from the front, plenty of room for cold air to get in which should mean the position is no longer a hindrance to power.

 

[welshpug 1,657]

its a springy thingymajiggy, goes at the bulkhead end of the outer cable to stop you stretching the inner when you hit WOT

[Doof 11]

Managed to finally get a day on the car and now the wiring it 99% complete. I haven't powered anything up just yet but I suspect i'll get the laptop plugged into the MS next weekend. It's getting exciting!

 

A few questions thought.

 

1 - There's a big fat earth wire in the 6 pin brown multiplug under the dash. Anyone know where in the engine bay that would have previously gone? Also, anyone know what it provides an earth for? I'm wondering if i need it at all.

 

2 - Do all the lights etc earth only at the front earth points just behind the headlights? I can't find any others and various lights don't seem to work!

 

3 - Coolant temperature light - this is show on a few diagrams i've seen dotted around this forum. It's located in one of the brown multiplugs under the dash but the only senders in the engine bay are sensors not switches and the sensor on the expansion tank has wires already in place going through the passenger side of the bulkhead so cannot connect to the 2 brown multiplugs.

 

Any help really appreciated!

 

Lewis

[nick 3]

C'mon Doof, get the bugger finished!!!

Edited March 25, 2009 by nick

[welshpug 1,657]

1, I haven't used it on any conversions yet, I can't remember offhand where it goes either!

 

2, yes (front end anyway) which ones are you having trouble with?

 

3, the switch is one of the ones on the thermostat housing,

 

on the 8v there is 3, one switch, one sender and the ECU,

 

on a 16v you'll find a 2 pin combined sender/switch, confusingly blue on the XU10's as they use green for the ecu.

Edited March 25, 2009 by welshpug

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Ditch it, It Earth's the old 8v loom and is not required, It does make me laugh the amount of people that wire this in during conversions as it just connect's to Earth point up!!