More Urgent Help Required Please

[rallyeluke 0]

right got all cylinder head bolts out this morning without none of them snapping, i dont wanna lift head off yet as i have some more questions.

 

 

first of all is it essential to take crankshaft pulley off to change cam belt?

 

 

second of all to the best of my knowledge i have dissconected everything that needs to be dissconected to remove cylinder head, is the left hand engine mount attached to the head in som way or is it onto the block? as it appears that i may have to dissconect that aswell.

 

 

many thanks lucas tunnicliff

[rallyeluke 0]

i meant to say obviously i dont want to remove head if i need to lock flywheel in place to remove lower pulley to gain access to cambelt at the bottom end as i dont want to disturb liners with head off as i turn crank to loosen bolt on lower pulley.

 

 

many thanks lucas

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Yes you do need to remove the crank pulley to get the cambelt off. If you have already removed the head bolts it is too late as they clamp the head which clamps the liners. If you want to do the belt you are now best to wait until the head is back on and the new bolts tightened down.

On an 8v XU the engine mount is attached to the head yes.

[rallyeluke 0]

so im not really up poo creak without a paddle then? fair dos, how many bolts hold the mount on the head then? cheers

[DamirGTI 342]

You can still remove the crank pulley even if the head bolts are undone - remove the head completely , use all 10 bolts in order to “lock” the liners , fit one nut (or double , two nuts ..) on each bolt and the big washers underneath , refit the bolts and lightly tight all of them : the washers will clamp down the liners so that they can't move and then you can turn the crankshaft ..

pic (but do use all 10 bolts + nuts/washers , washers need to be big enough so that they can reach the top of liner surface ) :

 

Next , turn the crank pulley and lock it in the position (11-12 o'clock) with the pin , check if it's fine , remove the pin and lock the flywheel and undone the crank pulley bolt and remove the pulley ..

Now i don't know if you have a proper locking pin for locking the flywheel , if not i'm doing that like this – take one long flat screwdriver and jam it in between the flywheel tooth and block surface (get someone to help you holding the screwdriver in the position while you untight the pulley bolt ..)

pic :

 

Rgs !

Damir

Edited March 23, 2008 by DamirGTI

[chris1986 1]

friendly advise

when re fitting don't forget the spacer on the head bolt over the water pump. seen a few people forget this lately.

[rallyeluke 0]

well i got the cylinder head off the engine and the fire ring on number 2 had split very badly and burned the fire ring on number 3 as well! have got a nice fresh reconed head lined up for me for £225 delivered. happy chappy.

 

now i need a good gasket> any recomendations??

Edited March 23, 2008 by rallyeluke

[DamirGTI 342]

Make sure that you skim the head prior to refitting as for the gasket just buy some good aftermarket one or an OE Peugeot gasket and you'll be fine ..

 

Also it'll be good to check the ignition timing as the detonations are one of the main reason for the head gasket failure , but also the cooling system - fan , thermo switch etc.

 

Rgs !

Damir

[rallyeluke 0]

the gasket was so heavily perished its beyond belief. i have a feeling it was just a bad batch, it was a black one with red on it, is this normal pug gasket? cheers lucas.

[DamirGTI 342]

Dunno i usually find "Erling" gaskets black with a red stripes .. but also some other aftermarket bands are similar in "coloring" the head gasket ..

 

Me thinks (someone will correct me..) that the OE gasket has green stripes on it .. and OE Peugeot gaskets suppliers are "Meillor" and "Curty"

 

Rgs !

Damir

Edited March 23, 2008 by DamirGTI