[Project] Starting My Xu5T Build

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Thanks for the comments chaps. Either it works or it doesn't, only one way to find out, and at the end of the day Turbo Technics applied the same basic engine work along with a Heath Robinson injection system, and they worked OK, so hopefully a few engine mods with a decent ECU and it should be just fine.

 

 

Here is the info I found Sandy, so yes you are right.

 

From the wiring diagram pins 3 and 4 are common and are the +12v feed to the coilpack, pin 1 is from the 1st ECU coil driver and fires cylinders 1 and 4, and pin 2 is from the 2nd ECU coil driver and fires cylinders 2 and 3.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Done a bit more tonight, I've got an XU9 in for a rebuild for a chap, so been doing more on that, but had half an hour on the XU5T.

 

Oil pump built back up with an XU10 spring, 6 bar oil pressure, should help supply the undercrown jets. With a wipe of wellseal on the faces and some threadlock on the bolts hopefully shouldn't need to go back to this.

 

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Out of interest here are the standard (5 bar) and XU10 (6 bar, yellow) springs side by side. Spring cost me something like £1.20, whoever sells these on ebay for £8 or more should be ashamed of themselves.

 

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Next up I decided to put a simple baffle in the sump, may just help things a bit, although the 8v engines don't suffer especially anyhow.

 

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

I tried to TIG it in, but the combination of galv metal and it being impregnated with oil for years meant this was a no go, so out came the trusty MIG to do the job, not the best I've ever done but its going nowhere.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Did a bit more on the head today, one of the exhaust manifold studs had been well butchered, probably including the use of some gardening tools in the process. I've bought myself a helicoil kit off ebay, this did a decent job of repairing the hole.

 

Whilst I was in a drilling and tapping mood I noticed those stupid waterway holes that come to the manifold face and decided to teach them a lesson once and for all! I think on carb models they must go to a water heated inlet manifold, but on the GTI they are nothing but a nuisance. A 6mm grub screw and some high strength studlock sorted the problem!

 

PICTURE MIA

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Latest effort in the 205T project has been slow with other commitments, including taking the unwitting victim of this turbo based japery along to Oulton Park to watch its big brother Mi16 hurtle round.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

I have however pulled my finger out ground all the valves in and cleaned them up ready for fitting. The head should mean the compression ends up at about 9.0:1, ideal hopefully.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

After that I decided to measure some cam profiles, I had in stock a 1600 and a 2.0T cam, and bought a 1900 cam off ebay to compare. I knocked up a rough and ready pointer and mount for my timing protractor and got the DTI out.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

As it turns out the 1900 was a bit of a waste of money as there is virtually knob all difference between the 1600 and 1900 cam. The 2.0T cam is slightly different in that it has equal duration to the other two, with the same overlap, less inlet valve lift, but more exhaust valve lift.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

I think I will end up using the 1600 cam, simply because it came out of the cylinder head, and so simply won't be as much work (hopefully) when it comes to shimming the valve clearances.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Brilliant Tom. Very interesting stuff; please keep going. Will it windmill before xmas?

 

Also, with my car running, there's a void in my life of engine building. It's kinda odd, that I can't wait to take bits off again to put the new cams in. The old inlet comes off tomorrow to go off with the R1 TBs to Eeyore and I get a great kick out of seeing yours and other engines take shape.

 

Lovely work.

[welshpug 1,657]

love the attention to detail you have Tom, just wondering what size drill bit was used before tapping out the offending waterways, if at all?

 

it was quite some time ago I did DT in school and ever since all I've been doing with tap's is cleaning threads not cutting new ones

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Thanks for the comments guys, nice to know someone is reading all this rambling I type on here. What I would really like is to get my hands on one of these cat-late-1900 cams to measure that and add it to the graph to see what is what. I've heard a lot of people saying they are good for turbo but it would be nice to see some numbers.

 

There is no timescale in mind at present; the car is still running on the road with the old engine in for now, although the MOT is due at the start of January and I've a feeling the current engines oil smoke at idle from the stem seals will mean it won't pass, so its quite possible that the car will come off the road for a couple of months at the start of next year when the tax/test expires for the conversion. At the moment I'm on with the engine build, and I've quite a few bits ready and waiting, but there will obviously be a fair amount of piping and plumbing to sort out once the engine is in.

 

M6 grub screw I would have drilled 5mm, I can't now remember whether it just took a slight amount out of the hole or if the size of it was near enough just to run the tap down. Metric sizes are easy to work out the tapping drill; take the base size and subtract the thread pitch and that is the tapping drill. For example M8x1.25 tapping drill would be 8 - 1.25 = 6.75. In reality there isn't such a thing as a 6.75mm drill so you use 6.8mm instead.

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Nice to see your write up in Torque, cant wait to see this running

[welshpug 1,657]

good read tom, a nice illustration of the fact that hoarding peugeot bits isn't a bad thing

 

 

need a 6.8mm drill bit now!

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Done a bit more on the head, fitted the valve springs and then the cam to measure the valve clearances. In the end I used the 1600 cam, the inlet clearances were all OK bar one needed changing, the exhausts also were not far off, but with some juggling round of shims I have purposefully shimmed them to the wide side of the allowed tolerance, to allow for a bit more expansion when the turbo is causing more heat around everything.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Also fitted the go faster red cover, as everyone knows this is worth 10bhp extra on its own.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

After fitting a full compliment of studs to the exhaust side of the head I decided to mock it up with the manifold and turbo on the block to see whats what.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

The oil feed and drain for the turbo are the next thing to look at I think, from a first look I think I will weld a steel pipe into the sump pointing up to accept the oil drain.

[miamichris 9]

I find this a cool thread Tom, engine building isn't my strong point but this is easy to follow and interesting to me so keep up the good work!

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Well despite a few days off work, I haven't done a deal on this engine, instead I've been on the red Mini turbo.

 

However, managed to find time to go and pick up the crank bearings I ordered the other day

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Next job really will be to get the block properly cleaned down ready to build, then I can dry build it and check tolerances etc.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Well this afternoon has been block cleaning time, I took off anything loose, then got cracking with the engine degreaser and the jetwash. In all honesty I'm not so fussed about getting the outside pristine, but more interested in getting the inside and oilways clean, especially as I've been making swarf in the oil system.

I also have changed an idea slightly, I've been wondering if maybe I did over-egg the size of the holes I drilled for the undercrown oil cooling, so I made up a long reach adaptor for an M3 tap and have tapped the holes I drilled for the jets M3, although not all the way through. I then ordered some M3 grub screws and some 1.0mm drill bits, the idea being to drill in the grub screws a 1.0mm hole to act as a restrictor, then wind these in till they bottom out on the part formed thread where I didn't tap right through. With some high strength threadlock on should do the job just nicely.

Anyway whilst getting the block ready for jetwashing I noticed a great load of crap built up in the water jacker around no 1 (nearest flywheel) liner, opposite end to the water pump. With all this raked out I was suprised to find I had made a weight saving of 65g!!

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

After I'd jetwashed the block inside and out I set about drying it, the liners had been clamped down but I had removed these so I could sit the block on its face on the bench. After looking at the piston rings and finding them none too clever I decided to bite the bullet and have new rings fitted, and also remove the liners from the block to properly clean all the crud out, and also to get them honed.

 

 

I'm not usually a great fan of disturbing liners, as quite often you can find the area on which they seat is corroded and renders the block scrap, however on this occasion I was pleased to discover it had faired well.205T by Tom Fenton, on FlickrA clean up with some wire wool has left the seats looking good, so next step will be to get the liners honed, and some new piston rings.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

So with the pistons and rods away at the machine shop (to go through their cleaning machine and get some new rings supplied) I decided to dry build the crank mains to get them done. Plastigauge to the ready and each of the 5 mains looked equal, always a good start!

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

Offering up the reference card it seems the clearance is 0.063mm, or in other words pretty much bang in the middle of the tolerance band for bearing running clearance. I expected this kind of result as the crank mains measured up a thou or so undersize, simply due to the 80k miles it has supposedly done.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Next job was to give the main caps all a good clean, as usual these had sticky burned oil residue on the non mating faces, my top tip for cleaning stuff like this is, engine degreaser and a brush, then get a tub of boiling water and dunk the degreased bits in for a bit, then hook them out onto a clean cloth. The heat from the water means the majority of it evaporates off leaving you to wipe up the odd bit with some paper towel, to give a clean dry oil free component. The main cap bolts also got the same treatment.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Loving this I so want myself a 1600 tubby.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I suspect one reason this will be such a stonking (read: fun) engine, is NOT just the addition of a turbo, but the cleanliness and attention to assembly detail (bordering on blueprinting IMHO) that Tom has sunk into his work.

 

Again, a true member of the Pit.

[timb1046 1]

i have been reading this with interest. its certainly inspiring and makes me want to tear apart and re-build my dieing pug engine.

 

Merry Christmas

 

Tim

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Thanks for all the comments chaps, I hope from writing all this I can hopefully inspire some others to try something different or just help them with info on what is inside their engines!

 

There's not a deal I can do at the moment, my liners, rods and pistons are still at the machine shop, although my liner seals, ordered on the 23rd from the local Peugeot dealer, who found some showing in stock at another branch in his group and got them to post to me, arrived in the post on Xmas eve morning! Really impressed.

 

So over the xmas period there is not much to be done on the engine. I have been amassing a few bits for the rest of the car, to fit when the engine goes in. Currently the car mechanically is standard 205 GTI 1600, the only additions really are GAZ coilovers and rear dampers, a 24mm rear AR bar, and braided hoses on standard brakes.

At present my list of bits is like this....

309 GTI wishbones

1.9 GTI hubs with new bearings pressed in

309 GTI shafts, new CV gaiters to fit

306 XSI 266mm discs and calipers, I want to keep the 1600 wheels on for the stealth approach, although I do have a set of Italian 1900 wheels that may go on at some point

Twin master cylinder bias pedal box, for more clearance in the turbo/boost pipe region

 

Should all add up to a good package I hope, the only thing I'd really like but can't justify the cost of at the moment is an LSD.

[westy 0]

Didn't you originally say that this one was going to be a standard runaround?

[DamirGTI 342]

Done a bit more on the head, fitted the valve springs and then the cam to measure the valve clearances. In the end I used the 1600 cam, the inlet clearances were all OK bar one needed changing, the exhausts also were not far off, but with some juggling round of shims I have purposefully shimmed them to the wide side of the allowed tolerance, to allow for a bit more expansion when the turbo is causing more heat around everything.

 

 

Please re-check the valve clearances once the head is fitted on the block and all the head bolts are torqued up to the final stage as the clearances always tend to close a bit when the head is bolted on and all the head bolts are torqued (from my experience it'll be around 0.10mm value on all 8 valves) , i'm doing this valve clearance adjusting always when the head is bolted on the block because of this , been doing that adjusting before on the bench but each and every time and on every single engine which i was repairing i had to re-set the clearances one more time afterwards the head was fitted on the block

 

Just wanted to say , and 100% without "mr. wise guy" attitude ... anyway , great project looking forward to see the end result !

 

Regards

Damir

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Didn't you originally say that this one was going to be a standard runaround?

 

It has been for 12 months.....LOL

 

Damir thanks for the tip, I'll recheck when its bolted down.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Well I'm still waiting on bits back from the machine shop, so no progress there. However I've been down to my mates for the weekend doing so fabrication work, whilst I was there I collectedthe Magnex exhaust he had fetched for me.

 

Was agast to see it had a rocket launcher tailpipe, my fault really as I hadn't asked!

 

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

Obviously this cannot stay and so into the bandsaw it went.

 

 

With the remains of the launcher ground off welded a 2.5" bend on as a tail, much better.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Also had a couple of hours on our 205 Mi16, removing the front end and radiator to have a look at the throttle bodies conversion we are doing for it.

Whilst it was in bits I remembered the radiator support Phil made for it and thought another would be ideal for my turbo conversion.

Here shown in the white car

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

And so hey presto! another one made for my red car!

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

With the remains of the launcher ground off welded a 2.5" bend on as a tail, much better.

 

love it

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

love it

 

Looks like a T16 pipe (or a porn star at ease in between filming !!)

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

You just had to lower the tone Henry, looks like we can now all guess what you were up to on your computer at 1.36am!!!!

 

Anyway, moving swiftly on.....

 

Had a good nights work on the engine last night, first of all my 3mm stainless grub screws arrived, the first lot I ordered were black high tensile ones and the 1.0mm cobalt drills I bought wouldn't touch them. The stainless ones were no where near as hard and drilled a treat, although watching the drill bit bend as you apply pressure is a bit disconcerting...

Taa daa one M3 stainless grub screw with a 1.0mm hole in it!

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

With a dab of threadlock these were wound into the tapped holes, bit fiddly but all went in a tightened down fine, here shown with an LED torch from behind. Other hole in the pic was the first attempt, that has now been grubbed to block it off.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

With the jets done I could now build the crank into the block, I had previously checked the mains running clearance and that was fine, so the last thing to do was to install the thrusts and check endfloat before building the mains.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

The endfloat was spot on mid tolerance so all fine and dandy, so the next job was the mains.

I use Graphogen assembly paste, a friend of my dads who for years ran his own engine machine shop swears by it which is good enough for me. A thin smear applied to each shell half, there is no need to go mad.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

Another pointer for anyone interested is to only build the bearings one at a time, you can then turn the crank as each one goes on to check for being tight. As I had already checked the clearances I had a fair idea all would be well, but out of habit and good practise I still did this, here you can see there are two main caps installed.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

I also like to work from the centre of the crank outwards, probably makes little difference really.

The end bearing cap at the flywheel end needs a smear of sealer round it, and also new hockey stick seals, these can be cut to length later.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

With all 5 main caps installed and torqued down the mains are done. At this point I can still easily turn the crank by hand.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr