Changing Front Arb Guide?

[Bakes100 20 1 Cars]

Hi

 

I will be fitting a 309 front ARB soon to go with my 309 wishbones, i will have the 309 clamps and bushes.

 

Im unsure of the best way to go about this!, who has done this in the past and what route did you take and problems you came across??

 

I was thinking of disconnecting the lower mounth then lowering the subframe, would i need to remove the steering rack??

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated

[de Noir 0]

You don't have to lower the subframe, as ARB clamp bolts are fitted from beneath.

It is perfectly reachable, presuming you have clear access to car's underside.

 

Biggest issue is rusty clamp bolts, they like to snap.

Edited March 11, 2008 by MH_

[Bakes100 20 1 Cars]

Oh thanks , thats a bonus, i assumed i would need to lower it to remove the old bar from the back of the frame. the bolts didnt look too rusty from memory, seemed to have a layer of crap projecting them!

 

Does that mean i can just undo the bolts and slide the bar out one side?

[Rupes 0]

Oh thanks , thats a bonus, i assumed i would need to lower it to remove the old bar from the back of the frame. the bolts didnt look too rusty from memory, seemed to have a layer of crap projecting them!

 

Does that mean i can just undo the bolts and slide the bar out one side?

IIRC, undo clamp bolts, remove clamps, undo drop links, slide out ARB, jobs a goodun.

[DamirGTI 342]

Hello !

 

Well I'd say that the problem is with removing the clamps in order to remove the ARB out and refitting them afterwards along with the new bushes as theres not so much space in between the clamps and body/chassis - it's a bit tight ..

Anyway i do this by loosing (unscrewing a bit) rear subframe bolts (theres 2 of them on each side of the floor so 4 bolts total , also i undo the front ones just touch - 2 of them so that i can wiggle/tense the subframe with a long bar..) and lowering just the rear area of the subframe so that i can have some extra clearance to work with around the clamps for fitting/refitting them ..

 

As for the clamps i always have problem with the threads inside them , as the clamps are aluminum and the threads often break/round out when tightening the clamp bolts ..

 

Rgs !

Damir

[Batfink 201]

may i ask why you want to fit the 309 arb? surely it will just cause your car to understeer more which isnt exactly desirable on a FWD car

[Bakes100 20 1 Cars]

With the heavy 6 engine and box and 309 bones the front end sticks to the road pretty well whereas the rear is standard apart from the shocks and it always feels abit more slippery at the back.

 

Might just be personal preference but as the car is used on the road alot i would far prefer the front to slide rather than the back.

 

Would there be a better way to go about this?? im pretty new to the 205 setup so any advice is welcome.

[j_turnell 137 3 Cars]

I really wouldnt do it unless your uprating the rear. I did this myself and just had lots of understeer and no grip exiting bends, which will be even worse the the torque of the 6 lump. Once i put a 24mm on the back it was awesome. I'd do the back first if anything.

[Bakes100 20 1 Cars]

yea the rear roll bar was the next port of call.

 

i mite just do both at the same time!

 

Rear is a pretty simple job isnt it? the beam has been apart and greased up not overly long ago.

[j_turnell 137 3 Cars]

Yeh the rear is a 10min job. Need to remove the end plate, should be a 13mm bolt that holds part of the brake line bracket on. Remove this, then you need to remove the plastic bung if it has one in the end, generally a torx bit. With this removed and the same done on the other side, you need to wind a bolt in the end, rear caliper bolt is ideal, and it will eventually pop out. If its been to bits prior it should be quite easy.