SPGTi 2 Posted March 10, 2008 JUst wondered whether anyone had used these fittings and maybe a solution to save scrapping calipers with sheared bleed nipples. see page 4 of catalog As most people seem to change to braided brake lines maybe it would be worthwhile getting them made up with a banjo fitting on the caliper end and using a banjo bolt with a bleed nipple. This would mean not having to touch the "chocolate" peugeot ones. I will be changing to these on the rear calipers in the next couple of weeks, so will let you know how I get on, but any feedback positive or negative would be appreciated. I tend to bleed my brakes before every event but still end up with rounded / broken bleed nipples and have a collection of "scrap " calipers in the garage that have broken nipples but don't leak that would be reuseable using this type of fitting. Steve Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Super Josh 4 Posted March 10, 2008 When you buy reconned calipers the nipple threads have, what appears to be, Molybdenum grease on them. Worth a try? And then just put a new coat one everyti me you change the brake fluid. Josh Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted March 10, 2008 the problem with using these type of fittings is that you'll struggle to get air out of the caliper itself as the fluid will simply empty from the hose not push the air from the body of the caliper. IMO preventative maintenance would be to fit high grade SS or Ti nipples! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPGTi 2 Posted March 10, 2008 the problem with using these type of fittings is that you'll struggle to get air out of the caliper itself as the fluid will simply empty from the hose not push the air from the body of the caliper. IMO preventative maintenance would be to fit high grade SS or Ti nipples! Do you really think that this would give problems bleeding a caliper ? Also banjo connections, especially at the rear, allow the hose to fit much tighter to the caliper. When running a single line from the caliper to a bulk head connector this allows for a much neater run and a lot less chance of snagging a line. I have some SS nipples (ooer) but also lots of potentially scrap bodies that could be reused using the banjo bleed nipple arrangement. Steve Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,542 Posted March 10, 2008 Ti or SS is good until the threads gall up, Ti is especially bad for this. The main way of preventing them seizing IMO is to make sure the rubber nodder is on the end. This stops water getting down inside the nipple as I believe this is one of the main reasons they rust and seize in place. Good anti seize is also needed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted March 10, 2008 I just stick stainless steel nipples in them (you want the polished ones, don't have the same tendancy to stick), bit of proper SS anti-sieze and they'll work forever and a day. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
saveloy 8 Posted March 11, 2008 Yep, you're right Tom, it is normally the loss of the top rubber that leads to problems. Water, etc falls into the nipple and corrodes it, which leads to the seizure. I too fit SS bleed nipples to my calipers. If you can source them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C_W 3 1 Cars Posted March 12, 2008 Best bet is to lightly grease the threads, but also bleed the brakes occassionally, rather than every 2 years when changing fluid. Saying that, I've not touched mine for about a year now!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anton green 12 1 Cars Posted March 13, 2008 I have SS nipples too, (!) I haven't had to bleed them off since I fitted them so cannot comment on thier serviceability. However they are available through ebay. I believe mine were originally destined for a motorcycle and the figure of 7mm diameter with 1mm threads ring a bell but you may want to double check that before you buy. I was sick of peugeot toffee nipples and looked in to a couple of different solutions -there are self bleeding nipples out there to be had which I seem to remember wont break the bank, definitly not as expensive as replacement calipers anyhoo. Anton Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted March 13, 2008 Yep 7mm x 1mm, I can usually get them cheaper than ebay if I buy a small batch though, they're about £3.50 normally, last ones I got were £5 a pair. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
All Praise The GTI 3 Posted March 13, 2008 i may be reading this wrong so please dont blaze me! but if they snap off like they usually do you can get the bit out,ive done this before using a small screwdriver tapping it in then basically ''unsrewing it out'' can be a pain if real seized but it can work? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonnie205 1 Posted March 13, 2008 i too have a got a pile of about 20 rear callipers with broken nipples, i used to get them out but now i just find it easir to go down the scrappy and lift some off and french car with rear disks. I think that rubber cover does help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted March 13, 2008 i too have a got a pile of about 20 rear callipers with broken nipples, i used to get them out but now i just find it easir to go down the scrappy and lift some off and french car with rear disks. I think that rubber cover does help How much for the lot? Pm me if you want, don't mind a bit of labour, should be able to save a few sets at least. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu 18 Posted March 14, 2008 Forgive my ignorance, but doesnt stainless react with ally over time? Im sure its something to do with the reactivity of Al with the oxide layer of the SS. I just work them very carefully forward then back in tiny increments, then when they are out a liberal dose of copper slip usually does the trick! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anton green 12 1 Cars Posted March 14, 2008 @Stu! I tend to react after a bleed nipple snaps in the caliper! So I'd rather the nipple reacts instead, but comes out in one go.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted March 14, 2008 Forgive my ignorance, but doesnt stainless react with ally over time? Im sure its something to do with the reactivity of Al with the oxide layer of the SS. I just work them very carefully forward then back in tiny increments, then when they are out a liberal dose of copper slip usually does the trick! It does but small bits ally in large blocks of stainless is where you get the problem, small bits of stainless in big blocks of ally tend to be fine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick 3 Posted March 14, 2008 (edited) I wrap the threads of mine in ptfe tape then smother them with copper grease, seems to work for me. Nick Edited March 14, 2008 by nick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daxed 7 Posted March 14, 2008 Whenever you have a job involving crawling under the car, give the nipples a tweak. My dad passed on that advice to me, except he didn't mention the crawling under cars bit. Works fine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPGTi 2 Posted March 25, 2008 Just to conclude. I went to get some banjo's and bolts with bleed nipples for my rear calipers. THe only problem was that I couldn't get a banjo to clear the caliper properly without having to put and unwanted "kink" in the hose. Maybe I will see how the 90 degree banjos work on the front when I snap the next bleed screw. Steve Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
christopher 5 1 Cars Posted March 25, 2008 How about using silicone or momnly grease on the threads?? Would that help? This stuff is used for the bendix sliders anyway?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
philfingers 5 Posted March 25, 2008 Usually just plenty of copper slip on the threads, a bit under the rubber cap too. No problem. Also use a 6 sided deep wall socket and/ or a proper brake wrench not an open ended one. If it's stubborn heat the nipple with a blow torch and this can be used on the brake line unions too with good effect. Don't worry about them catching fire, it's all sealed up if it's too tight to undo. if the fluid doesn't come out it won't catch fire! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites