McPikie 0 Posted February 8, 2008 OK, my top mount and gear box mount are shot beyong belief. Got some new ones, are they a serious arse to replace? I've done the solid bottom mount, but the top mount looks like the lump has to come fairly high up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted February 8, 2008 For the top mount, loosen the bolt in the bottom mount and undo the nut on the top mount, then jack the engine up a few cm using the jack under the sump with some padding. Then undo the 3 nuts that hold the top section of the top engine mount/bracket and remove this section. You've then got access to the top mount bush. The trick to undoing the bush is to lever the rubber body itself, as the the stud in the top is not connected to the stud underneath that screws in to the captive nut inside the chassis leg. Use a screwdriver or chisel, or something similar, get it stuck in to the rubber and then bash it with a mallet to try and get the bush to shift anti clockwise. Once you've loosened it you should be able to unscrew it by hand. The only possible snag with this job is if the captive nut inside the chassis leg decides to break free. If that happens then you are in another world of s*it and hassle .........not that I'd want to put you off Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,542 Posted February 8, 2008 If you've done the lower one then you've done the hardest of the three IMO! The other two are not difficult at all, just bolt off bolt on. The one on the cambelt end needs a sharp chisel to give the METAL ring a twat anticlockwise to get it started. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted February 8, 2008 I made a tool to remove my top r/h mountings A rather basic but effective copy of the one pictured in the Haynes manual would you believe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted February 8, 2008 If you've done the lower one then you've done the hardest of the three IMO! The other two are not difficult at all, just bolt off bolt on. The one on the cambelt end needs a sharp chisel to give the METAL ring a twat anticlockwise to get it started. Oh yeah, I forgot there was a metal ring! ........................actually thinking back, I'm not even sure if the last one I bought had a metal ring on it WP - that tool you've pictured is exactly how I was going to make one too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
McPikie 0 Posted February 9, 2008 WTF do I need that tool for? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted February 9, 2008 the top r/h engine mounting, you know the bit that screws into the inner wing? the cutouts are actually where the metal is folded in and this is the part that engages into the 3 cutouts in the buffer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted February 9, 2008 or as previously mentioned, if you get a chisel you can gently tap the metal part anti clockwise to loosen. firstly stick loads of penetrating oil wd40 down there as the faces will be rusted up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sandgroper 1 Posted February 10, 2008 The only possible snag with this job is if the captive nut inside the chassis leg decides to break free. If that happens then you are in another world of s*it and hassle .........not that I'd want to put you off Happened to me, the solution here is use a short C spanner (wrench ?) to undo ( somewhere around 20mm I think it was ) , when you want to fit the new one wrap the square (un)captive nut in sticky tape to the jaws of the spanner , sorry Aussie lingo ( Celo tape or what ever you Northeners call it locally ). Punch a hole in the tape where the thread hole is and line it up in the body and screw the mount back in by hand and yank the C spanner back out, then tighten with your prefab'd tool. Who cares if there's a little tape left in there ( you'll never see it and it wont hurt it either ) Nice tool you made there welshpug, I used one of those three legged oil filter removing tools, fits like a dream. Any hints on removing the lowwer to fit my BB solid lower mount? Cheers Sandgroper 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
