Stu 18 Posted January 21, 2008 As above peeps, ive had a look through previous posts, and not found a definitive answer, a lot of people use the Mi water to oil cooler and with the finned sump say thats enough. Im using the water to oil at the mo, with an XU10 sump, and am thinking that being as though i intend to do a few track days this year it'd be wise to upgrade to an air to oil cooler. I gather the stock 1900 jobbie is no good, so what do we think to this one? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PEUGEOT-205-309-GTI-...oQQcmdZViewItem Im thinking that with the increased capacity of the XU10 sump and a decent cooler i might just be able to keep the rods inside the block... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James_R 3 Posted January 21, 2008 Seems to vary car to car/driver to driver and then again track to track. I found a 13 row item on a tin sump fine for germany but useless really for UK circuits, best off going overkill and getting a 25row and a thermostatic take off, then you have surplus cooling. The extra capacity will just reduce the rate the oil gets hot, not help with the cooling so much. Start off trying no oil heater and just the alloy sump and see how you go, just put a proper temp gauge in to keep an eye on things. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu 18 Posted January 21, 2008 I did wonder if the water-oil cooler would heat the water as the running temps are so different, so i think its probably best to isolate the two really. I want to stick with the XU10 alloy sump for the moment too, simply for the baffle and gate, ive had a look on that link and the guy can supply a 16 row cooler for an extra £7 so i may go for that. Anymore for anymore? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garry 1 Posted January 21, 2008 My 13 row copes OK, I would suggest though, getting a standalone oil stat as opposed to the sandwich plate type. I have the sandwich plate type and it doesn't seal completely so you are always cooling the oil, resulting in over cooling during road use. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James_R 3 Posted January 21, 2008 My 13 row copes OK, I would suggest though, getting a standalone oil stat as opposed to the sandwich plate type. I have the sandwich plate type and it doesn't seal completely so you are always cooling the oil, resulting in over cooling during road use. Unless you do the carboard/ducktape trick which I prefer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu 18 Posted January 21, 2008 Unless you do the carboard/ducktape trick which I prefer. Lol.. now thats my kind of modding. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James_R 3 Posted January 21, 2008 just keep covering up the cooler till the oils bang on right Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,542 Posted January 21, 2008 My car also has a 13 row cooler, its fine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garry 1 Posted January 21, 2008 just keep covering up the cooler till the oils bang on right I can recommend a Crunchy Nut Cornflakes box! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted January 21, 2008 LOL, I'd use a 235mm matrix as I bet the one there is a 115mm item, A std Fitting kit is £50.53 and the listed cooler there is £48.57. A 235 16row cooler is £74.03 or £58.27 for the slimer version. But and a very big but, is I always recomend to fit the cooler in a desired location and get the pipes cut to suit as most kit one's I;ve always never fit. All list price and + VAT which I can offer a nice saving on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bobob 0 Posted January 21, 2008 Would there be any benefit on fitting an oil cooler on a road car? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted January 21, 2008 Would there be any benefit on fitting an oil cooler on a road car? Only if you're suffering from high oil temperatures, which is unlikely on the road Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
returnofjim 0 Posted January 21, 2008 I fitted a 16 row to a mi16 on bodies recently and that keeps very cool. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 591 Posted January 21, 2008 There's always the risk of over cooling the oil if you go too large. I use a 13 row with an extended XU10 sump, in a hot environment. It seems more than adequate for a 5 lap sprint. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted January 21, 2008 By far the best way of reducing engine bay temp's is to lift the back edge of the bonnet, I use a 24 row on mine and on the hotest day it keep's the oil just about right after a 15 min Race Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu 18 Posted January 22, 2008 LOL, I'd use a 235mm matrix as I bet the one there is a 115mm item, A std Fitting kit is £50.53 and the listed cooler there is £48.57. A 235 16row cooler is £74.03 or £58.27 for the slimer version. But and a very big but, is I always recomend to fit the cooler in a desired location and get the pipes cut to suit as most kit one's I;ve always never fit. All list price and + VAT which I can offer a nice saving on. Hmmm.. Interesting, what does the 235 dimension refer to Miles? ive got core dimensions of 235 x 124 for the 16 row cooler in the kit i posted, but im unsure of the depth, so assume when you say a 235 unit you mean the length. What sort of money could you do me a 16 row kit for bud? PM me if you like. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Batfink 201 Posted January 22, 2008 Surely the bonnet rear is a high pressure area so not very effective at ducting air out? I guess if you only need to make a small difference then its a good idea. The other is to properly duct air through the core.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted January 22, 2008 the 235 is the core depth, I'll drop you PM with the price for the various parts tomorrow But in the ideal world you want the oil cooler in it's own air not infront of the rad etc.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu 18 Posted January 22, 2008 the 235 is the core depth, I'll drop you PM with the price for the various parts tomorrow But in the ideal world you want the oil cooler in it's own air not infront of the rad etc.. Yeah, i plan to do that, im thinking underneath the drivers side headlight behind the bumper, with some vents cut into it. might even take the fog light out and duct some air up to it with a port and a bit of hose of some description. So just so im clear, what are the dimensions of the cooler? id have though it was 235mm across, by 110mm ish high, and approx 40mm (ish) thick? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garry 1 Posted January 22, 2008 So just so im clear, what are the dimensions of the cooler? id have though it was 235mm across, by 110mm ish high, and approx 40mm (ish) thick? Pretty much, yes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted January 22, 2008 That makes the install kit useless as the hoses will be far to short and the brackets supplied are poor, So really the cooler and take off is what you need and get some hoses made up by a local pipe company like Pirtek Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu 18 Posted January 23, 2008 Bugger.. how long are the hoses with the kit then Miles? will it go anywhere with access to clean air? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garry 1 Posted January 23, 2008 If its the same as mine, you will only have enough hose to put the cooler infront of the oil filter within the bumper! Have a look on spikys track car build and you will see what I mean. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
