Floor Surface Rust/removing Treatment

[DamirGTI 342]

Hi !

 

I've bought myself one more car which i wish to save/repair/rebuilt because the shell is in good solid condition ... only thing is that i have a problem with floor rust (well not so bad , mainly just surface rust ...) :

 

 

 

 

http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c151/Pie...;current=30.jpg

http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c151/Pie...;current=29.jpg

 

Which is the best solution to clean/repair/protect this floor surface in order to make it long lasting ? any recommendations for rust removing jelly/liquid and rust grinding/removing tools ?

 

Thanks !

Damir

[sonofsam 5]

Hi Damir, for surface rust removal grinding I would recommend something like this

 

Sam.

[d-9 0]

Personalyl id recommend something like this:

http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2...st-polisher.jpg

 

Wire brush(not twistknot wires) on a decent grinder, make sure you wear safety goggles, ear defenders, and a dust mask, as the wires on the brush tend to embed themselves in you.

 

Id then use a rust killing primer, brush on a few thick coats of gloss and then if its underneath, schultz it. No idea how well this prevents rust, ask my 309 in a few years!

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Anybody got any opinions on the Dinitrol stuff that Frosts sell?

 

Dinitrol Rustproofing Kit

 

Whilst buggering around with my beam, I noticed that I have surface rust on the underneath of the car. Nothing to worry about (Pretty lucky TBH), but would like to sort it before it does get worse.

Edited January 20, 2008 by Alan_M

[DamirGTI 342]

Hi !

 

Ok. thanks boys

 

What about rust removing chemicals which one is the best ? anyone try Loctite 7500 ?

 

Thanks !

Damir

[Paintguy 0]

It looks like quite a comprehensive kit Alan, and I'm sure I've seen Beastie recommend Dinitrol in the past, and he ought to know

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

I'll second the wire brush on an angle grinder, good bit of kit. Make sure you wear a deent pair of suede gauntlets, overalls, and some goggles when using them, I had one kickback and go across my arm, made quite a mess.

[DamirGTI 342]

Hi !

 

I've been working today , made a little test with an angle grinder and wire brush , and already i can see some progress the rust is just the top layer so it's not too bad as it looks (apart from a few spots but nothing too hard to repair/weld )

 

Anyway i really need goggles and dust mask cos this is a bit messy job , but hopefully worth to do for sure

 

Thanks !

Damir

[davepug205 7]

As said wire wheel on a grinder then id recommend por 15 from frost my car at the moment altho needs updating my car

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

i recently used rc900 rust convertor which is similar to kurust and the like , but this stuff leaves a pretty strong epoxy coating as well which hardens off to quite a strong coating ( i found it needed about 3 days before it accepted primer without reacting )

 

and i've used 4195 underbody coating which is like waxoyl, similar only because its black and goes under cars . the 4195 dries in about 24 hours to a rubbery/waxy coating which even on the most exposed parts of a wheel arch seem to be standing up to the winter roads. waxoyl struggles to last a winter on exposed wheelarches .

 

i've been totally converted to the dinitrol stuff , not by rust prevention because i havent been using it long enough, but by the quality of the coatings . Night and day compared to your waxoyl and kurust etc etc.

[DamirGTI 342]

As said wire wheel on a grinder then id recommend por 15 from frost my car at the moment altho needs updating my car

 

Hi !

 

Well that dosen't look so bad

 

Damir

[DamirGTI 342]

Just one more thing - should i brush/grind entire floor surface down to the bare metal or just around the rusted spots ? also how do you turn the car over to access the floor surface under the car ? how much this car weights when it's fully dismantled is it easy enough to turn him sideways so that i can work on the floor underneath ...

 

Thanks boys , greatly appreciate !

Damir

[davepug205 7]

If your going to use a good protection you mite as well do the whole floor ( do it properly do it ones ) the shells quite light once striped, only took too people to turn mine over.

or make a spit to bolt to the bumper mounts so it can be spun easily.

[DamirGTI 342]

If your going to use a good protection you mite as well do the whole floor ( do it properly do it ones ) the shells quite light once striped, only took too people to turn mine over.

or make a spit to bolt to the bumper mounts so it can be spun easily.

 

You're right

 

So only two people needed to turn the shell sideways ?!

 

Cheers !

Damir

[de Noir 0]

No Damir, save yourself the trouble and do just the zones attacked by rust.

Judging by your pictures, this should be enough, although I don't really get it how come so much rust inside the car!

 

Speaking of tools, I did most of stuff with various wire brushes on angle grinder. It should help you fine.

Unreachable zones either local sandblasting or rust inhibitors. You'll need quality primer afterwards.

Loctite 7500 super rust killer is at work as we speak here, I'll let you know of results.

 

Further, I would thoroughly inspect:

- Both sides od inner wheelarches, this ain't just rust spot IMHO, way too much rust...

- Rear seats tray. Those "spots" at the perimeter look like surface rust but in reality it's structural, coming from underneath, from rear quarter-rear floor joint. As was on my car. To state this correctly, you'll need to take off fuel tank.

 

Check out metalwork sections in my project, you can PM me for details as usual..

[DamirGTI 342]

Thanks !

 

Damir

[Paintguy 0]

No Damir, save yourself the trouble and do just the zones attacked by rust.

 

Agreed, and not just because it will save you work.

 

No matter what treatment and protection you use, it won't be as good as the one applied at the factory (especially if it's a galvanised shell), so you're much better off leaving the sound metal alone, and concentrating your efforts on the rusty areas.

 

Just clean each one in turn back to bright metal (or as near as you can), going a further centimetre or two around the edges, to make sure you've got it all. Also watch out for 'spiders legs', which are threads of rust that can track out from the main area (less common on galv, but keep an eye out anyway).

 

Once it's all cleaned up, and you're applying your converter/treatment, I always go a step further than just brushing it on and waiting for it to work. I'll put on a good coat, then use either a wire brush or wire wool to really scrub the treatment in (wear gloves). Wipe this off, reapply, and scrub again. Keep repeating this until there's no more brown/red rust coming off as you scrub, then apply a good layer and let it work for the recommended time. Once it's had time to work, I usually apply another thin layer, and wipe the area clean immediately. This helps remove any excess which could cause poor adhesion of your primer.

 

Hope that helps.

[DamirGTI 342]

Agreed, and not just because it will save you work.

 

No matter what treatment and protection you use, it won't be as good as the one applied at the factory (especially if it's a galvanised shell), so you're much better off leaving the sound metal alone, and concentrating your efforts on the rusty areas.

 

Just clean each one in turn back to bright metal (or as near as you can), going a further centimetre or two around the edges, to make sure you've got it all. Also watch out for 'spiders legs', which are threads of rust that can track out from the main area (less common on galv, but keep an eye out anyway).

 

Once it's all cleaned up, and you're applying your converter/treatment, I always go a step further than just brushing it on and waiting for it to work. I'll put on a good coat, then use either a wire brush or wire wool to really scrub the treatment in (wear gloves). Wipe this off, reapply, and scrub again. Keep repeating this until there's no more brown/red rust coming off as you scrub, then apply a good layer and let it work for the recommended time. Once it's had time to work, I usually apply another thin layer, and wipe the area clean immediately. This helps remove any excess which could cause poor adhesion of your primer.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Hello !

 

Excellent - thanks will do like you've said

 

Cheers !

Damir

[de Noir 0]

Damir, check out my project thrad for comments on Loctite 7500.. Looking good...

Result differs a lot from "usual" domestic rust converter liquid.