Timing Belt Change (pain In The A#*e)

[isub 0]

Hi all,

 

spent most of today trying to change the timing belt on my 1.9 205, first time on this car, and what a pig to do!!!

 

I'm wondering if i'm doing anything wrong as access to some of the nuts and bolts is almost impossible.

 

I've got up to the point where i need to slacken off the 2 bolts on the tensioner (older spring style),

which i've done, but i cannot get a spanner or anything else onto the single bolt on the rear of the roller, which you then give half a turn to adjust.

 

The space is sooo tight it almost seems like an engine out job, so any tips or hints from peeps who have changed theirs is much appreciated.

 

Big ten-four truckers!!

Edited January 19, 2008 by isub

[simonb 0]

I always undo the top engine mount arm and support the engine using a trolly jack. That way you can raise and lower it depending on what bolt you are working on to get better access. The bolt behind the roller is 16mm and requires you to angle the spanner downwards towards the driveshaft. You can only get about 1/2 a turn on it but this should be enough to get it undone.

[isub 0]

I always undo the top engine mount arm and support the engine using a trolly jack. That way you can raise and lower it depending on what bolt you are working on to get better access. The bolt behind the roller is 16mm and requires you to angle the spanner downwards towards the driveshaft. You can only get about 1/2 a turn on it but this should be enough to get it undone.

 

 

Ok, i'll give undoing the mount a go tommorrow, do you get much movement of the engine with this undone?

 

Yep thats the fella, 16mm, i think when thats undone thats about it!!!

 

One last thing, if i completly remove that bolt does the roller come off, as i was thinking of replacing it if its as easy as that!!

 

Cheers for the advice.

[pug_ham 245 3 Cars]

The spring tensioner is held on the block by the two 11mm nuts, all the 16mm nut holds on is the cam for moving the roller to slacken the tension on the bolt but you do need to remove this to get the tensioner off. Its not an easy job to change the tensioner with the engine in the car but it is possible.

 

You can turn the end of that thread with a 1/4" (or 6mm) spanner to release the tension fromthe belt & remove it.

 

It is possible to do the cambelt without removing the upper mount, I've never removed it on any of the belts I've changed anyway.

 

Graham.

[Super Josh 4]

I've always found the 8V cambelt fairly easy to change, an Mi however, is a right PITA. Doing it the first time took me ages, and I'd changed the water pump at the same time. But when I went to fill it up with coolant it pissed out all over the place because i had caught the edge of the gasket when putting the pump back in at an angle to get it to line up with the cambelt cover But it's amazing how much quicker it was the second time to strip it all down, sort out the gasket and get the belt back on and tensioned

 

 

 

Josh

[Alastairh 47]

Drop me a pm of where abouts you are in Kettering and can pop by and have a look.

 

Al

[isub 0]

Drop me a pm of where abouts you are in Kettering and can pop by and have a look.

 

Al

 

 

Cheers for the offer mate, thats v kind.

 

Managed to get the belt off this morning, i used one of those U shaped spanners on the tensioner, worked a treat,

so i'll pop to peugeot tomorrow for a new un.

 

Thanks again

 

Chris

[kyepan 291]

keep at it, its worth the effort.

[Project205 0]

Hi,

 

I am about to tackle this and have read this with great interest.

 

Before I begin, I need to purchase the tool to lock the flywheel in place as I want to replace the water pump at the same time. Any of you guys know where I can purchase this from? I had a look for the part someone on here mentioned once but could not find it on the web.

 

With regards to the spring tensioner, is it obvious how to tension the new belt with the new tensioner?

 

Many thanks,

 

David

[djinuk 2]

i got mine of ebay buddy, botu £7