sutol 0 Posted January 16, 2008 My search turns up every post with Mi16 in it or every post with exhaust in it so I am taking the easy route to save a full day trawling. Has anyone a picture or diagram of modifications needed to accomodate the exhaust pipe when converting to Mi16. please Pretty Please Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted January 16, 2008 Try searching for: +mi16 +exhaust The + symbol means you will only get threads with both words not just one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gti_al 1 Posted January 17, 2008 Wedge? Surely it is better to modify the exhaust than the shell? Even a reangled manifold would be a neater solution if you can weld Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whizzer71 0 Posted January 17, 2008 I think the angle plate or cut n' re-angle solution is a pretty good one !,If you get the manifold chopped and rewelded just make sure its done by a professional that can weld stainless otherwise it'll crack for sure,either that or go the whole hog and get a 4 into 2 into 1 manifold and that'll sit strainght in there lovely jubbly ! (No yellow reliant van pun intended ) Tris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sutol 0 Posted January 19, 2008 Thanks all, that is exactly what I needed to know Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
McPikie 0 Posted January 21, 2008 No offence to M@tt intended at all, but that looks grim. I would re-angle all the way Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
returnofjim 0 Posted January 21, 2008 No offence to M@tt intended at all, but that looks grim. I would re-angle all the way Thats not for an mi but for a gti6, dont mess with the exhaust angle on a gti6 lump. Its desinged to be perfect! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mbayley77 0 Posted January 25, 2008 Thats not for an mi but for a gti6, dont mess with the exhaust angle on a gti6 lump. Its desinged to be perfect! Thats drastic ha ha. I just folded the lip of the bulkhead over witha small hammer and a screwdriver Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Batfink 201 Posted January 25, 2008 I'm going to do this as whoever fitted my mi16 engine just cut the bulkhead lip down. With the heat and dampness around this area I now have a hole through. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
returnofjim 0 Posted January 25, 2008 I'm going to do this as whoever fitted my mi16 engine just cut the bulkhead lip down. With the heat and dampness around this area I now have a hole through. Yeh thats what happens when u just bash/bend it, thats why we left plenty of room, it's much further away from the exhaust now and much stronger. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dave_gti 0 Posted January 26, 2008 there is pics on Des Developments site, click HERE hope you find it useful Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mbayley77 0 Posted January 26, 2008 you learn something new every day! Maybe my engine will be coming out again! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mfield 20 Posted January 26, 2008 there is pics on Des Developments site, click HERE hope you find it useful Just looked around on their site and had a gander at customers cars, there's a nice looking red 205 mi with 220bhp. It looks like its had alot of money spent on it and loads of uprated bits, except for the brakes ? Are the std one's up to the job then ? just seems odd. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sutol 0 Posted January 26, 2008 Just looked around on their site and had a gander at customers cars, there's a nice looking red 205 mi with 220bhp. It looks like its had alot of money spent on it and loads of uprated bits, except for the brakes ? Are the std one's up to the job then ? just seems odd. Nice one, the bulkhead mod is shown in detail and shows where to cut. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dave_gti 0 Posted January 26, 2008 Nice one, the bulkhead mod is shown in detail and shows where to cut. Thanks no problemo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,661 Posted January 26, 2008 Just looked around on their site and had a gander at customers cars, there's a nice looking red 205 mi with 220bhp. It looks like its had alot of money spent on it and loads of uprated bits, except for the brakes ? Are the std one's up to the job then ? just seems odd. I would think so, many 205 rally cars use the standard caliper's with uprated pads and fluid and stop very well. I've been in that black beast pictured that's a 193 brake machine, and I'm sure the red one pictured is the owned by the brother of the lad who owns the black one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 90 1 Cars Posted March 5, 2008 Why does cutting the bulkhead lip down allow the heat and dampness in that area, after time, to damage the metal in there and make a hole? What does the lip do which stops it happening anyway? I'm 'spit balling here', but if you drift (with light heat, 4x2 and a hammer) the lip and surrounding metal in a tad in this area of the bulkhead and exhaust tunnel, say 5mm with the lip flattened in also, AND THEN treat it with a suitable barrier paint, then why would that not be suitable? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin W 0 Posted March 5, 2008 The black 205 <<< HERE >>> is mine. That was done 4.5 yrs ago with a replacement plate being welded in place of the hole and it is still as good today, as the day it was done. A wedge is indeed easier but I wanted to keep the stock Mi16 manifold. Thanks for the comments Welsh - engine is currently bing re-built to a much higher spec. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 90 1 Cars Posted March 5, 2008 Well, I took the leap and did what I stated/asked above. I took a butane torch with a wide and narrow ended soft wooden drift and carefully heated and reshaped the bulkhead and folded back the flange/lip. I took the decision that IF it was done neatly and carefully, and the metal was subsequently treated and protected, including the use of waterproof adhesive to fix some heat reflective sheet like I've heard is available from Demon Tweaks and I'm sure other places, then it will survive the elements and be as strong as it was originally. Pics in my project thread. It was nerve wrecking but actually quite a tactile and intuative task, where you kind of just felt your way and made it seem right. I'm next going to tilt the master cylinder with washers on the bottom bolts to ensure my cam & cam belt covers (on the 11mm taller iron block) clear it comfortably. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Batfink 201 Posted March 5, 2008 personally I wouldnt use anything that can work away from the bodywork and collect water. red oxide it and use some good paint. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James_R 3 Posted March 5, 2008 Are the std one's up to the job then ? just seems odd. I'm still run std calipers and discs, just put good pads in, been running DS2500's sucessfully, but now going for CL6's when Kev gives me a price finally Share this post Link to post Share on other sites