driversdomainuk 8 Posted January 14, 2008 Hi Just welded in an FIA approved seat with WRC style head/neck supports. Looks great although a twat to get in and out (I am 6ft 3" and like the seat real close to the steering wheel) Anyway, to the point, After fitting the seat (I am sure the two are not related ) I started the engine, all was fine, then the starter re engaged with that distinctive sound. Did this a few times - stange thing is, it appears to disengage and then reengage at will. Could it be a faulty starter solinoid or would it be possibly an electrical fault..? The starter started to smoke quite quickly wen this happened A friend of mine knows a lot more about electrics than I do - and as bodge job has put two wires to the dash so when I switch the ignition on I simply "hot wire" her and she starts.... Any help would be great. Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,548 Posted January 14, 2008 I'd check the ignition barrel first of all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davemar 16 Posted January 14, 2008 Just wondering whether you've disconnected an earth connection somewhere and the large current for the starter is going through some thin wires and smoking them? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 245 3 Cars Posted January 14, 2008 I'd go with Tom's suggestion & try another ignition barrel. The return spring can fail after a while so its a manual movement to put the key back in the run position from start & it can easily move between the two simly due to the weight of your keyring when tyhe car is driving or from vibrations through teh shell at idle. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
driversdomainuk 8 Posted January 16, 2008 I'd go with Tom's suggestion & try another ignition barrel. The return spring can fail after a while so its a manual movement to put the key back in the run position from start & it can easily move between the two simly due to the weight of your keyring when tyhe car is driving or from vibrations through teh shell at idle. Graham. Thanks for your help. If it is JUST the ingition barrel could I keep the two wires coming out the dash which I "hot wire" together once ignition is no into a more permanent thing - such as making it into a spring loaded switch..?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 245 3 Cars Posted January 17, 2008 Thanks for your help. If it is JUST the ingition barrel could I keep the two wires coming out the dash which I "hot wire" together once ignition is no into a more permanent thing - such as making it into a spring loaded switch..?? Possibly but I'm not quite sure what you mean. Replace the barrell or just leave the current one fitted but fit a second sprung switch into the wiring to supply a feed to the solenoid? Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
driversdomainuk 8 Posted January 17, 2008 Possibly but I'm not quite sure what you mean. Replace the barrell or just leave the current one fitted but fit a second sprung switch into the wiring to supply a feed to the solenoid? Graham. Keep the original barrell, and fit a sprung switch into the wiring to supply a feed to the solenoid. Basically keep the setup I now have. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
driversdomainuk 8 Posted January 17, 2008 Keep the original barrell, and fit a sprung switch into the wiring to supply a feed to the solenoid. Basically keep the setup I now have. Would this fella do the job..? http://www.demon-tweeks.com/products/Produ...;pcode=LON45462 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 245 3 Cars Posted January 18, 2008 That switch would be fine, I've got a suitable switch spare to sell if you're interested. You could simply fit the switch into the two hot wire wires your friend fitted with the switch you linked to & that'd work. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted January 18, 2008 You could simply fit the switch into the two hot wire wires your friend fitted with the switch you linked to & that'd work. You really need to fuse it if you're keeping it for the long term though, unfused live feeds from the battery are very dangerous. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
driversdomainuk 8 Posted January 24, 2008 You really need to fuse it if you're keeping it for the long term though, unfused live feeds from the battery are very dangerous. really..? so how would I do that..? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 245 3 Cars Posted January 25, 2008 You really need to fuse it if you're keeping it for the long term though, unfused live feeds from the battery are very dangerous. Good point. really..? so how would I do that..? Easy, just add an inline ufse holder into the wires to the switch that your mate fitted before you fit the new switch for the starter. Although I assume if your mate is an auto electrician it is already takebn from the fusebox & therefore fused originally but a second fuse for saftey is a good move. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
driversdomainuk 8 Posted January 25, 2008 Good point.Easy, just add an inline ufse holder into the wires to the switch that your mate fitted before you fit the new switch for the starter. Although I assume if your mate is an auto electrician it is already takebn from the fusebox & therefore fused originally but a second fuse for saftey is a good move. Graham. He had not taken it from the fuse box as it was a bodge job to get home and take it to a garage. This is when I decided I wanted to keep it - I will look for an inline fuse holder. Thanks for your help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 245 3 Cars Posted January 25, 2008 I will look for an inline fuse holder. Thanks for your help. I've got one & a suitable switch. Drop me a pm if your interested. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
