[engine_work] 309 Gti6 Conversion

[welshpug 1,657]

you'll need to join the Inertia switch wires, without doing so your fuel pump + lambda sensor wont have power!

 

IIRC the Diagnostic socket will have wire 140 White and 141 green, coming from ECU pins 31 and 12 respectively.

[felix2566 2]

Cheers WP, will get them joined up tonight. I suppose that is why whe the ignition is on the fuel pump is not on (?). It works when connected directly to +12v.

[d-9 0]

The GTI6 will almost certainly only turn the fuel pump on when the engine is turning over, so its nothing to worry about (although you're right, the wires do need connecting together). You might hear the ecu prime the pump when it turns on thou.

[Spiky 37]

where from and how much dude? whicj modfel car??

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?a...ost&id=4185

[felix2566 2]

It was off a 405 gear box, must have been a late model one. Probably cost about a tenner, cant really remember!

I had been searching for ages in breakers and on the web but had no luck. Was randomly looking at gear boxes and saw it attached to a box. Will go and check the model and year.

Edited April 3, 2008 by felix2566

[felix2566 2]

Getting so close to it all being finished now! Really cant wait to start and drive it!

 

have been working on the exhaust, the exhaust that was on the car was a bit of a bodge so bought a used OMP one of ebay. It is supposed to be for a 309. The shape is pretty much correct, but the hangers seem to be all out by a bit, I think it is because it mating to a 6 rather the original engine. Not to worried about that though. Have cut off the old ones and will weld on soem new ones. Have cut the down pipe so that it all fits well. Might have a bit more of a bend put into it to give more clearance between it and the rear beam.

[felix2566 2]

Got the fuel rail back on Friday with threaded ends braised on. I can screw the fuel pipes directly onto it.

Managed to get the engine fired up properly for the first time on Saturday!! Was so excited! Could harly beleive that after all this time it really all works!

Couldnt run it for very long, because i didnt have any cooling sysetem, soon sorted that out and now it runs fine. Appart from the small fact that it doesnt have any exhaust so its a bit loud!

 

Also for the my seat fitted, looks a bit more car like inside now.

 

The only problem that I have is that when the ignition is on and the engine is being turned over the fuel pump is not running. I had to wire the fuel pump directly to the battery to get the engie to work.

[felix2566 2]

When I joined the inertia switch wires the car wouldnt turn off! I had to unplug the ECU to get it to stop!

 

Exhaust is all done, brackets welded on, lambda sensor in. I am hoping to MOT it next week. That is assuming that every thing goes to plan!

 

I have attched a pic of some wires that come from the cooling fan loom are they all earth wires, that is all I can think that they are.

 

The heat shield is pushed out the way now so it is well clear of the lambda sensor!

Edited April 25, 2008 by felix2566

[Spiky 37]

the fuel pump not priming i guess is the pin 14 switch live is not right

 

the car still running is that you probably got a constant live connected where you shouldn't have

[felix2566 2]

Yea sounds like i have a switched/constant live conection problem. Will have to look into it, should sort the fuel pump problem too.

[felix2566 2]

Still working on the car. Now it is down to all the small details. It runs, but I have had problems with the idle and when the throttle is opened it used to nearly stall thanks to some talks with Spikey and this links and this one off the 306 gti 6 forum I have pretty much sorted them out.

 

The idle problems, as I thought was the idle control valve, it was really sooted up and the idle was all over the place.

When the throttle was opened suddenly it would bog down and almost stall, this was due to the temp sensor for the ecu not working. The false reading which it gives to the ecu means that it over fuels.

I still have a slight problem of the idle not coming back to normal. I tested the ICV as per the instrutions on the link. It is supposed to be 0.2v closed and full 5v open, mine was reading 0.5v closed and 3.99v full open. The map sensor readings were fine so I think this is the peoblem, I will get a new one and see if it makes any difference. If any one has any other ideas on this please feel free to comment.

 

Hope you like my little test loom so that the voltages can be measured while the sensor is getting power.

Edited May 2, 2008 by felix2566