[engine_work] 309 Gti6 Conversion

[Spiky 37]

are you going to use the same mount on the drivers wing as me?

 

if so, you can tilt the engine back to almost the right angle, then you wont have issues with the driveshafts making a shocking knocking noise

Edited January 15, 2008 by Spiky

[felix2566 2]

Banjo, no probs will drop by yours when its done and take you for a spin!

 

Spiky, yea I will be using that mount, I bought it last night so am looking forward to getting it and having the engine in properly!

 

Last night I was sorting out how the seats are mounted to the car, they were mounted on some thick ally angle bolted to the floor. The floor isnt very thick material and they used to rock around alot! Having some new rails made up which will be much more srcurely mounted to the car. forgot to take some pics, but will have some for tomorrow.

[felix2566 2]

Been doing a bit of work to get the seats fitted. will be having some plates welded to the end of the rails to attach them to the shell.

[Brian M 0]

Very nice project mate Seat mount's are looking rather custom, will the be adjustable??

[felix2566 2]

Right, been busy this weekend. New, shorted offside engine mount arrived (FP292 frm Burton Power, Escort Mk2 ) fitted it and I finally had some space between the engine and the MC. There was still some interference between the MC and the cambelt cover so I reluctantly cut a bit of the cambelt cover out to make some space.

 

Its not as bad as I thought, there cam pulley is way below the MC so there is no chance that it will ever touch! I also rotated the engine mount buffers 90 degrees so that they still did their job. I had to do this because the mount is now lower and was sitting below them.

 

The lower engine mount still needs sorting. I am slightly concerned that people only seem to extens them and not make them lower. If one does this the engine will be tilted forwards (fine), but the mount would have to be pushed down to make the holes line up, this would mean that the bush would be under a lot of strain all the time. So I am going to extend mine 10mm longer and how ever much down it needs to go, I havent worked it out yet! One of the pics below should show what I mean!

Edited January 21, 2008 by felix2566

[felix2566 2]

The other things that I did was to swap from a BE1 clutch pedal to a BE3 (cheers D-9 ) because I have changed to a BE3 Mi box. The pedal in the fore ground is BE1 and the one at the back is BE3

 

I have also started on the fuel piping, the car was runnig on carbs before so there was only one pipe so I needed a return. As all the jobs on this car I decided to redo the whole lot

 

"it's a mk2 2000 engine mount 50mm hard version from burtonpower.

 

i extened the bottom mount by 10mm i think, and added 2 washers to the gearbox side to drop that down,

 

i did put a washer on the news drivers side mount as i wanted a mount about 57mm and the new mount was only 50mm "

 

Thanks to Spiky for the above info, was very helpful for the engine mount and for finding out about Summit Racing in the US, that is were I got most of my fuel hose and connectors from, so much cheaper than here!

[Spiky 37]

i extended my bottom mount 10mm

 

looking good

[tom_m 0]

how much shorter than the oe mountis the escort one? looks like a sound fix that

[Spiky 37]

the escort one is 50mm the oe is 67 i think, cant quite remember

[felix2566 2]

Sounds about right. The engine will be coming out to do a few more tidying up jobs in the bay, while its out I will measure the mount.

[Spiky 37]

Sounds about right. The engine will be coming out to do a few more tidying up jobs in the bay, while its out I will measure the mount.

 

 

remember your engine will change angle when you extended the bottom arm

[Super Josh 4]

the escort one is 50mm the oe is 67 i think, cant quite remember

 

The OE one is 75mm. So looks like you have a 25mm drop? Have you done anything about the gearbox end?

 

 

 

Josh

[Spiky 37]

i have put some washers on the drivers side mound so mines about 54-55ish

i have also put somewashers on the gearbox side to drop that down too

i am going to make a new bolt for the gearbox side, buit everything seems fine at the moment

 

and on track have had no issues

 

time will tell i guess

[felix2566 2]

That is what i was thinkig of doing, spacing the gearbox so that it comes more into line with the other side. I am going to experiment and see how much I can space the top mount up so that I dont have to drop the GB down by too much.

 

Spiky, I realised that by extending the lower mount the engine position will change. So I am only going to extend it as little as possible to try and retain the original position.

[Spiky 37]

as said mine is 10 mm, but since i put the RS2000 mount on, i could shorten it a fair bit,

 

i have 2 spare std one's so may try and fit one and see what i need

[felix2566 2]

Thats good to know, I will see what I can get away with!

[Spiky 37]

you can see from my thread in my sig or project area, the room i have left, with the mount with spacers

 

but defo drop the gearbox side

 

as said i will make a new mount for that side, once this is done i will show pics

[felix2566 2]

Where did you get that part that you braised onto your fuel rail? I had a look on Summit's site but couldnt see it!

[Spiky 37]

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku

[felix2566 2]

Cheers

[felix2566 2]

Right, update time. I have been doing things, just some of it has been sourcing parts which takes time.

Finally found a dual out put speed sensor at the local scrappy.

 

I am very near to compleating the cooling system. I found a 405 TD bottom hose had the perfect size, bend and T off for what I needed. Cut it down in places and it fits perfect! Another bit of random hose will join the header tank to the heater matrix hose and the engine. I have am not sure which way round the hoses from the heater matrix go. Which one T's into the pipe to the header tank.

 

Speedo cable is in, need the little rubber 'pin' to hold it in though, seem to have lost mine!

Clutch cable is in and correctly adjusted. Good to be able to sit in the car and have some resistance from it!

Drive shafts are in, was a bit concerned that the speed sensor wasnt working, I twisted one of the drive shafts and it wouldnt twist the speedo cable, then realised that both drive shafts have to move for it to turn

[felix2566 2]

Been a while since an update. Lower engine mount has been modified and fitted, it will be powder coated with a load of other parts before it goes on the road to stop it rusting. Loads of clearance for the exhaust manifold now.

[felix2566 2]

D-9 came over on saturday and kindly gave me a hand with the wiring! I have to say I am so grateful to him for helping me out! Pretty much everything works now! Only a couple of questions, the black connector shown in the pictures with wire numbers 27 and 120 is this an inertia switch? If it is do I need it?

 

Also CC1 off the fuel ecu relay, is that the correct wire to use for the switched live?

 

Right nect to the ECU plug is a green plug shown in the pictures, what is this for?

 

I am also after oil temperature sensor to go in the front of the sump, (406)? And a mk1 306 xsi oil pressure guage. If any one has one of these please give me a PM.

[welshpug 1,657]

I guess the loom came from an early car? the green 2 pin plug would be the diagnostic plug, it clips to the end of the ecu box lid.

 

2nd pic is the inertia Switch plug, most people cut these out as they love to trigger easily in a stiffly sprung pug, especially if you bounce over a kerb on track.

[felix2566 2]

Unfortunately I dont know what age the car was that the engine came from. But I will take your word for it!

Do the wires need to be joined on the inertia switch plug or just cut out?