[rally_prep] 205 Tarmac Rally Car - N/a And 274bhp

[VisaGTi16v 1]

Details are here http://www.abingdoncarnival.com/

 

James I hope you are not entering the sprint as I will already be stuffed in modprod 2 litre by a couple of pesky Escorts heh

 

Baz, you havent entered have you? 10 in class at the moment although the Metro shouldnt be there, I have told them but no reply yet. Karl Stevens did me by about 8 secs last year but I was only 2 secs off an RX7, 3rd/11 in class

[Butler 0]

Ref Oil problems - I run an accusump.......... since I fitted this 2 years ago, not once have I ever had any problems.

 

 

Shame, I wanted to see you put a hayabusa engine into it.

[JamesLumley 4]

Visa - I'll be doing the rally on sunday, can't be dealing with sprints any more as they just don't get the adrenaline going enough!

 

Butler - wish I could have gone to Busa power, and would have done had they not changed all the rules on bike powered cars. That yellow busa powered 205 is up for sale for 20 something grand and is going to be pretty much useless when it gets banned.

 

Only wish I could have used my 350hp mi16 turbo engine in the rally car but they banned non turbo oe cars before I had the chance to fit it!

[fletch 0]

Fantastic engine you have there James, how long are you looking at between rebuilds?

[pugrallye 0]

used to be about 500 miles on a touring car engine, hope its improved somewhat!

[JamesLumley 4]

It has been built to do a season between rebuilds which is 8-10 events. (100 miles an event)

 

Considdering a rebuild and dyno is in the region of 2.5k, it's not something that you want to do often!

 

My Mi used to get a bearing change every other event - for the sake of £50 and a couple of hours work, she never missed a beat. Makes me wonder whether I've done the right thing by changing it.....

[JamesLumley 4]

Hi Folks,

 

Another weekend of tinkering with the 205 and the install is coming along nicely.

 

Here are a couple of pics to show the progress thus far.

 

Main jobs this weekend were:

 

Machine up a thermostat housing to mate with rad setup (done by machining up and then welding some stainless tubing to suit.

 

Mount radiator, 2 oil coolers and twin fans - yes it's all been done with thin steel bar and cable ties but it means that bits n pieces survive when we crash! The radiator has been lowered by about 2 inches to allow direct airflow into the throttle boddies - should make it easier to make up the airbox.

 

Install the new wiring loom for the longmans efi ecu including all the various sensors

 

Mount the secondary fuel pump and pressure regulator.

 

It still all looks quite messy in there but there is so much to do that it won't start to look perfect until the last few bits are finished - should be running by this weekend ready for the fine tuning mapping next week.

 

 

[johnrobertgordon 0]

yes it's all been done with thin steel bar and cable ties but it means that bits n pieces survive when we crash!

 

 

And its lighter

 

Looks awsome. You must put a vid up of it once its finnished.

[Dj_mini 7]

Blimey how much oil cooler is on there! looks like its coming on well we neeeeeeeed vids when its finished.

[JamesLumley 4]

One is a 19 row, the other is a 16 row. I would like to have run 2 x 19row but there's currently a shortage of 19rows in the country for some reason!

 

It works out cheaper to replace one 19row if it gets damaged - rather than a 39row which is mega bucks.

[phatgti 0]

Do they really run that hot?

 

Are you running the spec EFi computer?

[rich_w 0]

It works out cheaper to replace one 19row if it gets damaged - rather than a 39row which is mega bucks.

 

Next time one gets damaged try one of these:

 

http://titan-lite.com/

 

I quote:

 

Even greater robustness can be achieved through the optional use of Titanium or Stainless Steel tubes with interspersed Titanium or Stainless Steel fins - such configurations have been proven to withstand a shotgun blast, the equivalent of track debris impacting with the cooler core at a speed of at least 800mph.

 

 

Car looks good so far, be good to see how much your times improve. When's your first event?

[petert 588]

I think it will run too cool. I run a 13 row over here in sunny Australia, and that keeps it plenty cool enough. And two fans? Just more weight to cart around.

[JamesLumley 4]

Hi Wayne,

 

Yea she's running the Efi spec computer from Longmans, the map is locked into the ecu so I can't mess with it - unless anyone knows how to break his codes!

 

At abingdon which is perhaps a bit of an anomilie event, the temperature is usually in the high 80s on smooth tarmac and very fast - we can hit 135 down some of the straights and the car is always at high revs.

 

At the end of each 10 mile stage, the water temperature is usually around 100 or over and the oil temp is 130+. Oil pressure drops very low when the revs are under 1500. (thats with running good oil, 19row cooler, 6 pint accusump and a deepened baffled sump.

 

Sitting in a start line queue for 15mins for each stage doesn't help, hence the reason for 2 fans - one is not enough to keep the temps down.

I usually try to start the stage with a water temp of 85 degrees but it doesn't stay there for very long.

 

Heat has always been a problem in the 4 yrs i've been running a 16v in competition - there's not a lot of space left in the engine bay with all the ancillaries such as the electric p/s pump, swirl pot, accusump pipework etc.

 

I could be wrong but we think the std water pump starts to cavitate if used for extended periods of say over 6500-7000rpm and this creates the heat problem - i've done some tests on this and the results seem to confirm my findings.

 

Be interested to hear how others cope but everything I say is from experience so please don't shoot me down if you disagree!

[James_R 3]

Suprised you haven't opt'd to dump the std water pump in favour of an EWP setup, that way you can have tighter control of the coolant temps, I'm just hunting a cam belt short enough to miss out the waterpump loop.

 

James

[JamesLumley 4]

Hi James - just cut off the fins in an std pump and then use the std cambelt - it can still run around the pulley, just won't do anything.

 

Richard assures me that the Gti6 won't suffer in the same way as the mi - not sure why but I'll let you know after I've tried it.

 

I've looked into electric pumps, we are thinking of running one in the system so that we can circulate water in service - to stop heat spots building up when the engine is switched off. I had one of these on a vr6 and it seemed quite effective.

 

Not sure how keen I am on relying purely on an electric pump, it's something else to go wrong and would almost certainly destroy the engine - which is what put me off the dry sump system.

[phatgti 0]

When circuit racing we found our Longmans BTCC Alfa engines would drop on to their cold map at 65 degrees - this caused all sorts of problems at the Ring and winter racing in the UK, we used to have to tape up the radiator with tank tape to restrict air flow so it would run on normal map.

 

We couldn't change map either.

Edited May 23, 2007 by phatgti

[TT205 42]

Sitting in a start line queue for 15mins for each stage doesn't help

 

Once I'm 'up to temperature', I switch the engine off if I'm waiting

[johnrobertgordon 0]

Once I'm 'up to temperature', I switch the engine off if I'm waiting

 

Thats actually one of the worst things you can do, you will get hot spots as the water is not circulting around the engine. Heat soak.

[smckeown 1]

Thats actually one of the worst things you can do, you will get hot spots as the water is not circulting around the engine. Heat soak.

 

unless you have an electric water pump of course

[VisaGTi16v 1]

Are they standard fans or uprated ones? Perhaps you can get higher output ones. When looking for a thin one for my Visa with its Mi16 I got the highest CFM one I could that was the desired size of just over an inch.

 

My engines fairly standard and the fan pushes as standard, not pulls but it holds it at 82C easily and used to go less when I had no stat at events and even when sat on the M25 for an hour returning from a sprint on a very hot day (granted the fuel pump relay gave up then but thats a different matter heh)

[phatgti 0]

Thats actually one of the worst things you can do, you will get hot spots as the water is not circulting around the engine. Heat soak.

 

Which is why you use an electric water pump so you can have it switched on after the engine has been killed.

Edited May 24, 2007 by phatgti

[JamesLumley 4]

The fans in the pic above are brand new so I havn't tried them in anger yet. They're uprated Davis Craig ones.

 

They pull twice the volume of air through the rad than the std pug fans and are now also located behind so not blocking airflow into the rad.

 

I've located a suitable elecric circulation pump so may well add this to aid water flow during service.

[JamesLumley 4]

She lives!!

 

 

For those of you who missed my initial post with details of of the engine, she's already been run in and mapped by Longmans, just need to fine tune the map out on the road which is being done next week by Richard.

 

She's a healthy 264hp thus far...more hopefully to come soon!

[205turbo 32 2 Cars]

very nice james

 

ps

 

you got the arb yet?