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Alan_M

Braided Hose

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Alan_M

As part of my 205's major (complete) suspension/brake overhaul, I want to get rid of the compensators on the back due to having 4 pots up front. Currently the system is in copper (AutoMec kit) with braided flexi end hoses to the calipers.

 

Plan is to modify the line to the rear with braided from a new M/C, to a bias valve then onto a T-piece before spliting equally to each rear caliper. Can't be arsed to faff around doing the front lines at the moment and the fact that the braided front flexi's cost me a few quid to be made up! Maybe in the future.

 

I've tried to look for a certain thread that someone has listed the parts required from RallyDesign, but the thread seems to be missing now. I get a 'Message Board Error, thread you are looking for has either been deleted or broken'!

 

Its not hard to list the connections I'll need but I have a few questions:

 

1) Anybody had any problems with the RallyDesign stuff rusting?

 

2) I know Earls do the bits to, but are they worth the extra cost? What are these swivel-hose connections all about?

 

3) Is preferential to use male-to-male adapter on the rear calipers, then use a 90'elbow so the hose is'nt under any stress/strain?

 

Thanks

 

Alan

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tom_m

i gave mine to miles for a week and it came back with it all done. definitely the best way to do it in my book :)

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Baz

How much was that Tom? All very well but half the fun of building a car to your own spec is doing it yourself IMO. And bits like that aren't hard, i need to do it too, it's just getting the bits together and finding the time to do it.

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tom_m
How much was that Tom?

 

mmm, can't remember TBH. Miles did the whole lot not just the back end so if you're interested PM Miles for a quote.

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Spiky

i have done mine with the rally design bits,

 

rust? it's stainless steel, it cant rust, east to fit,

 

see my sig for updates,

 

though i have now run them inside and will complete it this week when my new pipe comes as i was 6" to short...DOH

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309PUG
i have done mine with the rally design bits,

 

rust? it's stainless steel, it cant rust, east to fit,

 

see my sig for updates,

 

though i have now run them inside and will complete it this week when my new pipe comes as i was 6" to short...DOH

 

Just to be a little podantic, some stainless steel can and will rust.

 

Chris

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Miles

Most fitting's are steel with Stainless braded pipe for some reason, I know that some of the Goodridge kit's are like that and the ends go rusty in no time at all, The pipe works out fairly cheap, It's the fittings that cost the money and swivel ones even more

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Spiky
Just to be a little podantic, some stainless steel can and will rust.

 

Chris

 

 

;)

 

no probs i stand corrected :lol:

 

mine look fine, though it does spend 95% of the time in my garage..lol but has seen wet weather and they seem fine :)

 

 

how's you anyhow matey??? hows the car????

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ashley peddle

anyone know roughly how much to get braided lines through the car? ;)

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Spiky

i think mine was 110, but the run under the car, so just add the price of say 30 quid for bulkhead fittings and that should cover thingsthough i think it's less, sorry bad memory

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Alan_M

So if you want to run the lines through the car, do you need bulkhead fittings?

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ashley peddle

id have thought it was a case of making a hole and putting a rubber gromit in to prevent the braided line from chafing? (sp?) or am i missing something? ;)

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Alan_M
id have thought it was a case of making a hole and putting a rubber gromit in to prevent the braided line from chafing? (sp?) or am i missing something? ;)

 

Thats what I was planning!

 

Can someone put up a list of whats needed for a braided hose installation (RallyDesign/Earls). I did have a link to an old thread but it seems to be unaccessable.

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tom_m
anyone know roughly how much to get braided lines through the car? ;)

 

depends if you want it fitted or you're doing it yourself. i'm fairly sure jonnie has quoted £100 for the parts, but for a fully fitted price PM someone who offers the service. Miles' work can't be faulted

 

id have thought it was a case of making a hole and putting a rubber gromit in to prevent the braided line from chafing? (sp?) or am i missing something? :lol:

 

that's how mine are :)

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madant_uk

ive got all my bits from Rally design but dont no how to fit he braided hose on the the fittings lol! but i have bought bulkhead fixtures just to be on the safe side!

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Spiky

cut to length use making tape when cutting to stp it fraying

 

slide over the back screw on section

 

then peel back a bit of the overbraid

 

slide in the olive, i use a rubber mallet to make sure it goes in all the way

 

screw on the end peice

 

 

job done

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Tom Fenton

Yes I agree with that, however be careful as if you get it wrong you risk a brake line popping off when you least need it....

 

Another point to note is that self assembly fittings are not actually road legal, as the constuction and use regs state that any unions are to be swaged onto the hose. This is why the propietory kits from Goodridge etc come with swaged on fittings and not the self assembly type.

 

However to qualify this, you will be very very unlucky if you come across an MOT tester that knows that and pulls you on it; my track car has passed its MOT for the last 5 years with aeroquip brake lines throughout.

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Miles

I always use crimped/swaged fitting's as the hoses all come with a PVC covering for extra protection, As I have never fanced the thought of did I do that fitting up correctly when approaching a bend at over 100mph ;)

 

With the bulkhead you can either use a gromet and pass the pipes thru or a bulkhead fitting and the same when going thru the floor at the back which makes it all nice and tidy

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