I'd Like To Build A Complete Oe Engine Management Loom

[welshpug 1,657]

Large plug from Shunt box.........................................same as before, prise open clip either side

 

 

these ones are a bit tougher to get the terminals out, feed a small screwdriver in angled upwards, then apply pressure so the end of the screwdriver is pressing on the terminal and pull it out, shopuld look a bit like this when it comes out

 

 

 

tang clips into area that scrwdriver is on terminal

 

 

 

hope thats of any use Steve

[gti-si 0]

This is a great read Steve. Got hold of another GTi6 loom so I can completely remove wires I don't need rather than just cutting them off. Do you think the GTi6 ECU plug is the same as the Mi16 with regards to removal? Might go and take it off and strip it tonight

[GLPoomobile 958]

Welshpug - my shunt box plug is slightly different to the one you've shown, and does not have a lift up cover. It's 90% the same shape, but totally flat on the upper surface where yours has a bit of shape to it and the flap.

[welshpug 1,657]

2.0 plug is identical though the pinouts differ, 1.9 Mi isn't too dissimilar either.

[Rippthrough 98]

Just a note on the budget side, I'd put at least £120 to one side, you'll be suprised how much it costs if you intend to use decent glue-lined heatshrink and quality cable protection.

 

The buggy cost me £100 to wire up and that has virtually nothing electrical bar the engine and dash!

A full loom with everything needed for SVA compliance for the 4wd rally cars costs almost 4 figures...

Edited July 13, 2008 by Rippthrough

[GLPoomobile 958]

Well I did point out earlier that cost will be entirely dependent on whether you choose to do a true, 100% complete replacement, or whether you re-use some and make it more like a 90% partial replacement. And it depends on what types of connectors and cable protection you use etc.

 

I've gone to the extra expense of using JPT rather than JT connectors. I bought black ones relatively cheaply from AES, but now I'm thinking I might actually spend a bit more and get a blue JPT plug for my CTS and a grey one for my ICV from Simtek, to match the originals.

 

There are areas you can cut costs without scrimping on quality, simply by removing the need to use Pug only parts. For example, where terminals are expensive, do away with the original connectors. For the relays you can get universal sockets from plenty of suppliers such as VWP, AES and Simtek, which use terminals that are far easier and probably cheaper to get hold of than the Pug ones. If I had easier access under my dahs I'd be tempted to cut off the original brown plugs and replace them with another type of connector, again allowing the use of cheaper and more readily available terminals.

 

I will be trying to do my loom to as high a quality as I can manage, and I'm not strictly holding on to the purse strings with it, but I don't want costs to spiral out of control either. I know for a fact that my loom will probably be nearer £100 than £50 when finished, but the fact remains that you you could do it for £50 I reckon, by re-using many parts that don;t tend to perish. The key areas are replacing the cable itself (goes brittle with age and corrodes in areas subject to moisture) and fitting new terminals.

[Rippthrough 98]

I will be trying to do my loom to as high a quality as I can manage, and I'm not strictly holding on to the purse strings with it, but I don't want costs to spiral out of control either. I know for a fact that my loom will probably be nearer £100 than £50 when finished, but the fact remains that you you could do it for £50 I reckon, by re-using many parts that don;t tend to perish. The key areas are replacing the cable itself (goes brittle with age and corrodes in areas subject to moisture) and fitting new terminals.

 

It can't be done, even if you make the loom for £50, you walk into the supplies shop and see some nice cable braiding, and you think, "oooh, pretty".

 

That's it, £100 loom

Edited July 13, 2008 by Rippthrough

[GLPoomobile 958]

Welshpug - I have to say a massive thank you for the info above about the shunt box plug

 

I finally managed to pull one of the terminals out of mine by jamming a screwdriver in the back (rather than the front as you have shown). It wasn't a delicate or respectful operation, but minimal damage was done.

 

Now that I know that there is a variety with a flip cover, as you have shown, I have now managed to locate it on Servicebox. The connector is 6541 98 and the terminal is 6542 16 (3mm2), 6541 97 (6mm2) or 6542 26 (10mm2). Prices are 47p for the plug, and 46p to 50p for the terminals.

[welshpug 1,657]

yeah I realise that the 205 uses a slightly different plug now, the terminal inside is similar I think because I pulled one from the plug pictured and inserted it into the 205's original one.

 

Those plugs dont seem so expensive, but the terminals I have worked in a slot machine factory and we would go through thousands of small ones a day! if only I'd made a note of the supplier DOH!

[cRaig 273 1 Cars]

This is a interesting thread... would you like to have a go at making me an aircon loom for my 1.9!? The one I've sourced to fit is a mess..

[GLPoomobile 958]

It can't be done, even if you make the loom for £50, you walk into the supplies shop and see some nice cable braiding, and you think, "oooh, pretty".

 

That's it, £100 loom

 

I'm already looking at using some different products to sex it up a bit, which means I've wasted money on the stuff I've already bought Totally pointless considering it'll all be hidden and will just get dirty, but it's just like you said above

 

would you like to have a go at making me an aircon loom for my 1.9!? smile.gif The one I've sourced to fit is a mess..

 

The information contained within this topic should be enough for you to be able to do this yourself. For what little time I've spent just messing around with bits and bobs, I've come to realise that none of this is really that difficult.

[steve@cornwall 100]

Just a thought, it may well pay to look at any local manufactures - I did a bit of work some years ago making looms for recon. electric cookers of all things. There was a cool hydraulic press that you inserted the cut end of a wire into, pressed the footpedal and it stripped and hydraulically crimped the terminal on! Now if you could find one of these, I reckon taking in a handfull of pre prepped wires one of the guys would bang terminals at either end in his lunch break for pennies.

[GLPoomobile 958]

The satisfaction is in doing it myself

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then I've only got myself to blame when it all goes wrong! LOL

[johnnyp 1]

iam rebuilding my loom have done all the engine sensors just trying to sort out the headlight loom iam after this pin do you have the part code for them

 

 

Thanks Johnny

[GLPoomobile 958]

Sorry Johnny, I can't tell from the picture and I'm not familiar with the headlight loom (will be tackling that in the future). Is it from the connector that plugs in to the bulb?

 

Welshpug will probably be able to find the right one on Servicebox

[johnnyp 1]

its the conector that plugs into the side lights

 

thanks Johnny

[GLPoomobile 958]

Update time. I said a few weeks ago that this would be finished in a couple of weeks time........and surprise, surprise, it's not! No problems, just me being slack!

 

I'm nearly there though. The time consuming bit is the planning, sourcing bits, and making sure the wiring is routed correctly before cutting it length etc. I finished the routing this afternoon, so just neeed to take it out again and crimp on the terminals. Then I can refit it all and see if it works (that'll be when I get back from holiday). And providing all's fine, take it out (again) to wrap it and tidy it all up etc.

 

It's actually taken a LOT longer than expected. Building a replica of an existing loom wouldn't take very long at all. But I've spent probably 10-15 hours dissecting 2 old looms, making notes, double and tripple checking all my info, and then making a coloured schematic on excel (probably better tools to do such a thing, but was the best I had). And I estimate it has taken me about another 10 hours (on and off) to route each wire exactly how I want it in the engine bay, before cutting it to length, tagging each cable end, and taping it together at various points. Mind you, I am being extremely cautious as I go, because I want to get it right first time. No sense in rushing things.

 

Reckon on another hour or 2 to crimp on all the terminals and get all the connectors on, then see if this bad boy works when I get back from the hols.

[GLPoomobile 958]

Oh, by the way, I've forgotten if the battery negative lead connects to the gearbox earth point or the wing earth point. Can anybody tell me?

[welshpug 1,657]

Both!

[GLPoomobile 958]

Both!

 

It didn't go to both before I took it off! I had an earth strap betweeen the gearbox and wing, and a black negative cable from battery to either the gearbox or the wing, not both.

 

My memory is showing me an image of it goin to the wing, but my instinct is saying it should go to the gearbox.

[jackherer 543]

The battery negative clamp should have two wires, one goes to the gearbox and one goes to the the inner wing.

[welshpug 1,657]

yup, grey wire to the gearbox and a stripy yellow/green one to the inner wing.

[Veero 1]

OMG seriously this thread is a god send. GLP I was thinking of re-doing my own Mi16 loom about 10 months ago when I put my 205 in the garage and left it there SORN'd. The loom on mine is from a BX (in the BX ECU is under the driver's seat, goes through the bulkhead, along the front right wing, along the bumper, back in the pass wing and into the engine bay, back across the engine bay to the driver's side), so it is about 4 miles long and I have coils and coils of wrapped up wire hanging in the engine bay and coiled up under the dash. All the connections are worn and some wires fraying on the connectors I have already had the AFM connector plug snap off the loom and had to resolder it on. Also I overfilled my gearbox oil which spooged oil out the breather plug and splattered all over the engine bay (gearbox oil and silicone hoses DO NOT mix kids, let that be a lesson). The gearbox oil has eaten through alot of the plastic coil casing on the loom and looks like it has melted some of the wire sheathing which could easily short something, although thank god it still works somehow.

 

Generally it's a mess so I wanted to shorten it all but never quite got the impetus to actually do it. I had thought of getting a peg board type affair and measuring all the courses of each individual wire with a piece of string and then making all the bits of wire to tidy the whole thing up and this thread I think has just given me the inspiration I need. So thanks for that.

 

I'm sure you have been ultra careful getting the wires right but something that might help is this attachment. It's the pin outs diagram for the 3 row loom.

 

I have another PDF, a complete run down of the resistances and behaviour of components such as the TPS when you rotate it, but the file if 600+kb so I cannot attach it here. Although this is for the 2 row loom.

 

Thanks for posting this thread, I thought it wouldn't be rocket science and in my typical way I'm glad someone has attempted it before I have (I'm such a wuss) so nice one. I have loads of PDFs and files about all this stuff, I plan on printing out some of these in A3 and then taking over the dining table for a few weeks while I make my own 3 row loom.

 

Veero

[welshpug 1,657]

Picture of negative terminal on my car

 

[GLPoomobile 958]

Regarding the battery earth, I only have a thick, black -VE cable at the moment (one of those pre-made ones), so I'm going to need to get some extra connectors and cable to run to the 2nd earth point. I'm assuming the thick black cable should go to the GB, since in Welshpug's pic the thicker grey cable is routed that way. Does it even make any difference?

 

Since it'll take a few days to get the bits, and my loom is just about ready for testing, will I still get any joy trying to run the car with just one earth from the battery? Or does it really need to be earthed at both points to work at all? And which one - GB or wing - would be preferable to use if I can get away with only one earth for testing purposes?