Mi16 Rebuild Questions?

[rnotman67 0]

Hi there, I've bought an Mi16 engined 205 from a friend. The engine failed due to oil starvation and the big end bearing nearest the flywheel was worn badly. I've had the crank regound and got heavy duty shells to suit. (mains and big ends).

I'm not a mechanic but an engineer at a local factory, and like my tinkering with motors. So decided to have a go.

 

My questions are:

 

1. I'm away to strip and clean the oil pump tonight, If I strip the oil pump how can I check if it is okay. (I.e what are the tolerances and things to check?)

 

2. When I get round to fitting the bearing caps should I replace the bolts as well. As I read how to in the manual it describes a way of tightening them like head bolts(which are usually replaced).

 

3. does anyone have any information on what the difference is between standard and a high pressure pump. Am I correct in saying it is just a standard with a bigger spring in it.

 

4. I've also heard of fitting a larger oil pump drive gear to the crank. I think its the one from the Gti-6 engine. which is only about £5 from peugeot. Has anyone done this and did it help with oil flow?

 

5. I've been told the engine has a pair of cams fitted. how can I tell if this is so? as visually they look standard.

 

Cheers

Ryan.

Edited November 21, 2007 by rnotman67

[luggy 13]

Im currently in the process of doing an Mi conversion and have completed the bottom end rebuild. Im keeping mine standard and as a daily driver the only thing Ive changed is the oil pump spring which is standard, I did notice the new spring was about 5mm longer than the old one.

I also changed the conrod bolts for ARP ones and piston rings courtesy of QEP. Its a good idea to change the conrod stretch bolts as you've already mentioned they're just like the ones holding the head on the block, dont have to be ARP ones. Get the liners deglazed/rehoned and get some new liner seals. Rebuild is currently on hold until Christmas and new year are over, funds wont stretch that far, but my plastic will but I dont want to go down that road.

If I was in the same position as yourself my main worry would be why the oil starvation occured, perhaps an new oil pump would be in order unless the friend you bought it off admits to running it low on oil, or was the crank pulley bolt loose? Oil pump sprocket on earlier models were driven by friction so if the bolt isnt tight then the oil pump wouldnt be as efficient.

[Ryan 99]

1. The tolerances to check in the oil pump are the clearance between the gear teeth and pump body, which should be under 0.064mm, and the gear endfloat, which should be under 0.1mm.

 

2. I didn't bother replacing them, and I've never had any trouble. I think most people re-use the old ones too.

 

3. The spring is the only difference. The original spring will open the bypass at 5-bar oil pressure. The high-pressure spring will increase it to 6-bar.

 

4. The original pump gear has 22 teeth, the 2.0 16V engines have a 26-tooth gear. You need to fit the matching chain to go with it as the original will be too short.

 

There's some ideas for preventing oil starvation here:

http://www.taylor-eng.com/sump/wetsump.htm

Edited November 22, 2007 by Ryan

[rnotman67 0]

Cheers ryan for the sizes for the pump, split it open and had a look and seems fine. Will get the feelers out tommorrow for a closer inspection. Gonna take it in to work over the weekend along with some other bits to clean with the parts washer.

 

what does anyone else think on replacing bearing cap bolts? Mite go and price some up tommorow.

 

How does everyone else go about cleaning the block out properly when its stripped out? I've been told degreasers, power washers and parafin are all good??

[jimmer 0]

Cheers ryan for the sizes for the pump, split it open and had a look and seems fine. Will get the feelers out tommorrow for a closer inspection. Gonna take it in to work over the weekend along with some other bits to clean with the parts washer.

 

what does anyone else think on replacing bearing cap bolts? Mite go and price some up tommorow.

 

How does everyone else go about cleaning the block out properly when its stripped out? I've been told degreasers, power washers and parafin are all good??

try a steam cleaner and some traffic film remover/detergeant

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

I'd replace the conrod bolts as a matter of course TBH, whether standard (not very expensive) or ARP ones.

 

Seems a coincidence that some rebuilt MI's throw rods, when they are still 150 - 200k mile old conrod bolts.

 

Don't take the risk.

[rnotman67 0]

5. I've been told the engine has a pair of cams fitted. how can I tell if this is so? as visually they look standard.

 

 

Can anyone answer my other question??

Pretty please!!