Dan Ingram 1 Posted November 17, 2007 My 205 had a respray a few years ago and although it quite a good job its not perfect. Its a bit orange peeley, the roof and bonnet being the worst bits. I made a start on the bonnet thinking that if it all went horribly wrong I could just have it repainted. I started by wetsanding it with 1200 grade then worked my way up to 2000. That got the paint nice and flat but left it a bit dull so I polished it up with G3 compound. Its brought the shine back up but its full of swirl marks. So what i'd like to know is how to remove them. Would going over it with G10 compound help or will that just make the swirl marks finer?? If that wont work then what can I use that will. Also can I do it by hand or am I going to need to invest in a machine polisher?? Im after glass like paint really or as close as I can get, all help on this will be greatly apreciated Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chesney 0 Posted November 17, 2007 I've just ordered a UDM (ultimate detailing machine) and expect to get it properly sorted you'd need one of these. Depends how bad it is and how thick the paint is. A pro detailer would give you ideas of products to use but would prob need to see it. I was going to get my car's done by a pro but at £300 a car I decided to get a machine and have a go myself!! Will practice first before going near my car! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmsy19 3 Posted November 17, 2007 (edited) machine polishing sounds like the only way forward. the guys of another forum im on swear by the PC (porter cable) polisher. i think you might be able to buy them over here now if not then inporting them from america @ $280 all in me and my brother both had our 205's done and came up pefect after a good machine polishing Edited November 17, 2007 by timmsy19 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paintguy 0 Posted November 18, 2007 I agree, you really need a machine polisher (or a Porter Cable if you must join the bandwagon), for the full effect, as G3 is a diminishing abrasive. This means it breaks down into finer particles as you work it. So it starts off cutting quite coarsely, but after a few minutes with a machine it has become so fine that it removes most of it's own swirl marks. Polishing by hand doesn't work the polish (compound) enough to break it down, hence your swirl marks. On a dark colour you may still need to move on to a finer product like G10, or 3M machine polish for a completely swirl free finish. I've recently stopped using G3, and moved on to Farecla's Total. It's a compound that cuts as well as G3, but seems to break down better, and leaves a fantastic finish, even on black. I rarely have to finish off with another product. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan Ingram 1 Posted November 18, 2007 Excellent thanks for the advide. I'll see if i can borrow a machine polisher. Does it have to be a random orbital one or will a normal one be ok? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paintguy 0 Posted November 18, 2007 A normal (orbital) one will be perfect. Some will tell you that you need a random orbit type, like the Porter Cable, but I've been machine polishing cars for over 20 years, and I've never seen the need for one Start with a clean polishing head as any old dried-up compound will just cause swirl marks. Don't use too much G3, just a 10p sized blob will be enough to start off with. Spread it around a small area with the machine switched off, then start it up and begin to work around that area. Staying within a small area (say 1/4 of a bonnet) means the compound wont dry out too quickly and it's easier to concentrate on what's going off. Keep the machine moving to prevent localised hot spots which could burn the paint. If you want, you can add a little water to keep things cool. A spray bottle is ideal for this. Keep working the compound until it's all gone. You may think you're polishing with nothing after a while, but it's just broken down to it's fine stage, and will still be working. If you're left with a really greasy surface then you've used too much, so wipe the excess off with a cloth and continue polishing. If the surface still needs more work, then add some more G3 and repeat. Most people use far too much, but it's counter productive really. In our bodyshop we polish 20 - 30 panels a day between us, and we've just finished a 1litre bottle after about 6 weeks. Some folk get through one of those per car! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan Ingram 1 Posted November 18, 2007 Excellent thanks for the advice, very helpful as always Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars Posted November 19, 2007 A normal (orbital) one will be perfect. Some will tell you that you need a random orbit type, like the Porter Cable, but I've been machine polishing cars for over 20 years, and I've never seen the need for one Start with a clean polishing head as any old dried-up compound will just cause swirl marks. Don't use too much G3, just a 10p sized blob will be enough to start off with. Spread it around a small area with the machine switched off, then start it up and begin to work around that area. Staying within a small area (say 1/4 of a bonnet) means the compound wont dry out too quickly and it's easier to concentrate on what's going off. Keep the machine moving to prevent localised hot spots which could burn the paint. If you want, you can add a little water to keep things cool. A spray bottle is ideal for this. Keep working the compound until it's all gone. You may think you're polishing with nothing after a while, but it's just broken down to it's fine stage, and will still be working. If you're left with a really greasy surface then you've used too much, so wipe the excess off with a cloth and continue polishing. If the surface still needs more work, then add some more G3 and repeat. Most people use far too much, but it's counter productive really. In our bodyshop we polish 20 - 30 panels a day between us, and we've just finished a 1litre bottle after about 6 weeks. Some folk get through one of those per car! You oughta do a guide for the website. I love that G3 Stuff, used it on my scratched plastic rear light clusters and brought them up like new. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted November 19, 2007 There's quite a good polishing and waxing guide by Andy C stuck to this very forum I also found the website Polished Bliss to be quite helpful (not that I've yet put any of this knowledge and expensive products to the test yet ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy_C 50 Posted November 20, 2007 Machine buffing's not hard - it does take practice though. I've spent a lot of time recently with people teaching them how to get the best results from both random orbital and rotary buffers. You could try contacting a guy called Steve Graves (AKA L200 Steve) based in Leeds = IMVHO the UK's top car detailer and a thoroughly decent bloke too. He won't charge you stupid money but you will get your car looking the best it ever will - trust me! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan Ingram 1 Posted November 21, 2007 Right i've had a bit of a go today and i've improved things slightly. Most have the light swirl marks have gone and the paint is now a much deeper red than the rest of the car. Only problem is some of the deeper swirls marks are still there and I cant remove them. Am I right in thinking i'll need to go back over it with 2000grade wet and dry to remove them? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paintguy 0 Posted November 22, 2007 If your compound wont remove them, then you may well need to sand them again with some 2000. Take it steady though, as the paint will probably be starting to get a little thin with all this work. If they are so deep that the G3 doesn't remove them, then they must have been caused by something else, possibly a piece of dirt or grit on your cloth. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
