Electric Window Motor/regulator In A Phase 2 Cti

[Frequentflyer 0]

Hello Forum members,

 

I have been experiencing problems with the driver's door window for some time, in that it developed the habit of only going down an inch or so and then refused to go any further. After some months of this, it virtually stopped moving at all!

 

Not being at all technical, I eventually got round to taking the panel off. This allowed me to see - not much - but that the black rubber sleeve/seal which the trailing edge of the window runs in, in the vertical aluminium runner had been virtually "pushed" right down to the bottom of the runner. I was able to re-fit the sleeve, and the window now works, but only with some assistance, and there is an occasional "clunking" noise coming from behind the inner door skin near where I imagine the motor/regulator sits. I say imagine, because I cannot see in there, and I don't see any obvious way of getting in there.

 

I have looked in Haynes, but it is very "sparse" on the subject, and I have also looked at some Forum threads on related subjects, but am still somewhat in the dark as to what is wrong, and what I need to do to get at the problem area.

 

I have a couple of questions and a request:-

 

Questions

 

1. If I have to invest in a new motor/regulator is there any difference between that for a GTI and that for a CTi?

2. From my description of the problem do you think that replacing the motor/regulator is the correct course of action?

 

Request

 

Is there anyone out there who is familiar with this problem, who would be kind enough to PM me their telephone number, and let me talk to them about it.

 

All help gratefully received - cheers - Roy

[Guest smokinslim]

If the cti is anything like the cj then the regulator will only have a single arm insted of 2 in a cross pattern like hardtop models.

 

I've had problems with the single arm bending on mine causing the window to be very stubborn at times since a previous owner forced the window open to retrieve hers keys from the locked car. Every now and then i take the regulator out and straighten the arm again. This seems to ease the problem for a while. Also shrunken bottom window seals leaking dont help matters much either. Its helpful when the motor/regulator are out to give them a good clean up and grease.

 

Ive got to fit at some point gti leccy motors etc. When i do this i intend to cut the ends off the spare arm and fix it to the used arm for extra strength/support.

 

I might be able to sort out some pics of what i mean if it helps.

[Frequentflyer 0]

If the cti is anything like the cj then the regulator will only have a single arm insted of 2 in a cross pattern like hardtop models.

 

I've had problems with the single arm bending on mine causing the window to be very stubborn at times since a previous owner forced the window open to retrieve hers keys from the locked car. Every now and then i take the regulator out and straighten the arm again. This seems to ease the problem for a while. Also shrunken bottom window seals leaking dont help matters much either. Its helpful when the motor/regulator are out to give them a good clean up and grease.

 

Ive got to fit at some point gti leccy motors etc. When i do this i intend to cut the ends off the spare arm and fix it to the used arm for extra strength/support.

 

I might be able to sort out some pics of what i mean if it helps.

 

Hello Smokinslim,

 

From what I can see, there is only one arm, and yes I know exactly what you mean about shrunken window seals.

 

Pictures would help enormously - from you and/or anyone else out there.

 

What I am really hoping, is that someone can provide an idiots guide as to how to dismantle and re-assemble the motor/regulator.

 

Thanks for your interest - Roy

[steve@cornwall 100]

HI. I would imagine that the winder mechanism itself is worn, and the clunking is the sound of the motorised "cog" slipping on a tooth in the winder mech .

 

You can use a gti mech, just cable tie the redundant arm to the one you need. (I have done this).

 

The cti front window differs from the gti one in more than just shape. The front edge has two guides that are fixed through the glass and slide up and down in the rubber seal (which incidentally is only available as part of a door seal set at .........250 + vat ) If this seal is not fitted into the guide absolutely right, it acts as a brake and puts great strain on the rest of the mech.

 

The motors for gti / cti are the same. The last 2 ctis I've had were optioned with elec. windows from new - but both had been converted to manual by the time I got them. I'll try and get some pics in the week as I still have the doors from my first cti - complete with the leccy motors I fitted to them - they will go into my silver cti one day (bee waiting 2 years so far)

 

(edited as I read your sig - you don't have any choke parts for an auto, do you?)

Edited November 11, 2007 by steve@cornwall

[Guest smokinslim]

You should be able to get peugeot to order the plastic sliders and replacement screws/sleeves from france. I managed to get some sliders from a rolled roland garros cab in a scrappy but had to order the screws in. Think it cost me about £8 for 2! The sliders, a window seal and a boot sel cost me about a fiver from the scrappy lol.

[steve@cornwall 100]

You should be able to get peugeot to order the plastic sliders and replacement screws/sleeves from france. I managed to get some sliders from a rolled roland garros cab in a scrappy but had to order the screws in. Think it cost me about £8 for 2! The sliders, a window seal and a boot sel cost me about a fiver from the scrappy lol.

 

My local dealer had the sliders! later ones are riveted on so you can do that - if you need sliders, I think I have a couple spare now.

 

Word of warning, though when playing with new winder mechs. Make sure they don't push the window up too far, they shatter when shut against the hood. (cost me 150 quid for new glass

[Frequentflyer 0]

HI. I would imagine that the winder mechanism itself is worn, and the clunking is the sound of the motorised "cog" slipping on a tooth in the winder mech .

 

You can use a gti mech, just cable tie the redundant arm to the one you need. (I have done this).

 

The cti front window differs from the gti one in more than just shape. The front edge has two guides that are fixed through the glass and slide up and down in the rubber seal (which incidentally is only available as part of a door seal set at .........250 + vat ) If this seal is not fitted into the guide absolutely right, it acts as a brake and puts great strain on the rest of the mech.

 

The motors for gti / cti are the same. The last 2 ctis I've had were optioned with elec. windows from new - but both had been converted to manual by the time I got them. I'll try and get some pics in the week as I still have the doors from my first cti - complete with the leccy motors I fitted to them - they will go into my silver cti one day (bee waiting 2 years so far)

 

(edited as I read your sig - you don't have any choke parts for an auto, do you?)

 

Hello Steve,

 

Many thanks for your interest.

 

If you are correct in your assumption about "the cog slipping on a tooth in the winder system" - what do you think I need in the way of parts (names/part numbers would be most helpful), and just as important (to me) how do I take out the worn bit(s) and how do I fit the replacement bit(s)?

 

Any photos would be great, as would a PMed phone number if you were up to it?

 

I regret that I do not have any choke parts left, just bits of a phase 2 black dash, steering wheel and other odd parts.

 

Thanks again - cheers - Roy

[steve@cornwall 100]

Hello Steve,

 

Many thanks for your interest.

 

If you are correct in your assumption about "the cog slipping on a tooth in the winder system" - what do you think I need in the way of parts (names/part numbers would be most helpful), and just as important (to me) how do I take out the worn bit(s) and how do I fit the replacement bit(s)?

 

Any photos would be great, as would a PMed phone number if you were up to it?

 

I regret that I do not have any choke parts left, just bits of a phase 2 black dash, steering wheel and other odd parts.

 

Thanks again - cheers - Roy

 

I'll try and get some pics soon - and strip it down with pics along the way. (has to come out anyway.) No idea of the part nos. I'm afraid as I tend not to use many new parts. If I get some pics up, you can print them out and take to the dealer.

 

It's difficult to get me on the phone at the moment, as work is strange hours- spread in shifts between 7 am and 10 pm But if you really struggle, I'm sure we could work something out

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

There are no serviceable items in an electric window motor / regulator as it comes as one unit.

 

To make a GTI a CTI reg is easy. All you need is an angle grinder. As has been said, you do lose the safety screw that is on the top, to make sure your window does not go too high

[steve@cornwall 100]

There are no serviceable items in an electric window motor / regulator as it comes as one unit.

 

To make a GTI a CTI reg is easy. All you need is an angle grinder. As has been said, you do lose the safety screw that is on the top, to make sure your window does not go too high

 

Henry, IMO this makes the reg more delicate, with a tendency to bend around the hole. they work perfectly well with the superfluous (ooh! good word for sunday night) arms cable tied to the remaining one (the genuine ones bend too)

[Frequentflyer 0]

I'll try and get some pics soon - and strip it down with pics along the way. (has to come out anyway.) No idea of the part nos. I'm afraid as I tend not to use many new parts. If I get some pics up, you can print them out and take to the dealer.

 

It's difficult to get me on the phone at the moment, as work is strange hours- spread in shifts between 7 am and 10 pm But if you really struggle, I'm sure we could work something out

 

Hello again Steve,

 

The photos would be great, especially if they showed me where my old fingers have to work blind (behind the inner door skin) to take something out and replace whatever it is.

 

I will PM you with my email address.

 

Once again many thanks for your interest and help - Roy

[Frequentflyer 0]

There are no serviceable items in an electric window motor / regulator as it comes as one unit.

 

To make a GTI a CTI reg is easy. All you need is an angle grinder. As has been said, you do lose the safety screw that is on the top, to make sure your window does not go too high

 

Hello there Henry, nice to hear from you again!

 

Thanks for the photos and advice.

 

What I am hoping is that Steve will be able to advise me on is a step by step guide as to what and how to dismantle whatever, inside the inner door skin, and what I need to replace once I have got whatever out. I am assuming from what people have said, that I will need to replace the motor/regulator, but I am also somewhat confused by the references to the leading edge slide(s?).

 

Thanks again - I need all the help that I can get.

 

Regards - Roy

[steve@cornwall 100]

Hello there Henry, nice to hear from you again!

 

Thanks for the photos and advice.

 

What I am hoping is that Steve will be able to advise me on is a step by step guide as to what and how to dismantle whatever, inside the inner door skin, and what I need to replace once I have got whatever out. I am assuming from what people have said, that I will need to replace the motor/regulator, but I am also somewhat confused by the references to the leading edge slide(s?).

 

Thanks again - I need all the help that I can get.

 

Regards - Roy

 

 

HI, roy

 

I'm afraid I didn't get time to do a full strip etc. but hopefully the pics I have managed will help

 

This is the assembly you want to remove - looking at Henry's pic, mine may be an after market motor, but the principle is the same

 

This is how it sits in the door, you can see where the three 10mm nuts fix

 

how the mech. connects to the window - note the slider in the bottom left of the window, theres another towards the top left

with the mech about 6" from where it goes, you can clearly see the 3 holes where the fixings are mounted (2 to the right of the winder hole and 1 to the left)

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/pug...er/DSC00370.jpg

 

Quickest way to convert a gti mech to a cti one

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/pug...er/DSC00366.jpg

 

Height adjuster on original cti mech - you don't get this with the gti - so be careful when putting window up with door open!

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/pug...er/DSC00372.jpg

 

 

With the door panel off, remove the 3 x 10mm nuts securing the mech. and push through the door skin. Slide the mechanism inside the door until it's slid out of the channel in the bottom of the window. You may need to lower the window (close the mech) slightly to do this - It's fine to operate the electric window to do this.

There may or may not be another nut or screw fixing the motor to the door-- it will be obvious where this is.

Unplug the motor wires from inside the door and check for any clips holding wiring to inside of door.

Close the mech. fully and withdraw it all through the large aperture in the door.

 

To use a manual mech for electric windows, cut off the part of the winder spindle where the handle pushes on, where it protrudes from the motor and force a small self tapping screw down between the plasticc of the motor and the remainder of the spindle.This will stop it slipping off as the motor turns

 

Hope this helps

[Frequentflyer 0]

Hello Steve,

 

What can I say! Thank you so much for this - over and above the call etc etc!

 

Unfortunately, we have visitors this weekend, but I should be able to have a go at the window next week, so I have printed this off, and look forward to getting on with it.

 

I will PM you - if you don't mind - should I run into any problems.

 

Many many thanks - Roy

[ifcho 0]

I did exactly the same when fitted GTI electric windows to a CJ - just bent the extra arm and they go like a charm.

You just need to watch the windows when closing as they go a bit high.