[engine_work] 306 Project

[jimbean 0]

inline pump is easy to mount anywhere but behind the tank it a good option

 

wire it to a relay and use the 1st fuel pump feed... to power the second pump relay

 

i use a 9 bar inline bosch pump but it is in the tank out of sight

 

if you want to look round mine for ideas you are quite welcome

[Sloppy 0]

crikey i bet the gobble fuel like its going out of fashion with all them fuel pumps

[Rob Turbo 3]

It's too wet today so I've been working on a couple of other bits, I got the pump from the xm fitted, it was a bit bigger than the original one but I got it in and the pressure is bang on now. I also tried firing it up and the problem is still there but I think it's the idle control valve, I tried firing it up without the icv plugged in and the tickover was lower, I've taken it off and been cleaning it out with petrol but is the bit inside supposed to be spring loaded or is it supposed to stay wherever you leave it?

 

Now for another problem! When I fired it up I left it ticking over for a bit and after a few minutes the oil light started to flicker, fairly dim but it did come on, I've checked the wire isn't earthing off anything and put some more oil in, it had about 3.5 litres in before, now it's got about 4.25-4.5 litres in, with it being the aluminium sump it should have 4.25 litres, I didn't think having a bit less in would do any harm for the minute, it's just sitting there, not being driven or anything, is that likely to be something wrong with the engine or could it have been because there wasn't enough oil in?

[jimbean 0]

could have been a glitch with the switch

 

i have made a t piece so i can fit a gti pressure sensor aswell as the oil light so i can have both

 

the oil pressure in mine is getting on for 95 psi cold

 

if it had a fault with the oil pump relife valve sticking it would not put the light off ...

 

put a pressure swith in and see the pressure rather than the lamp

[Rob Turbo 3]

I've got a pressure gauge sender from a gti that I could use, just need a t piece for it.

 

Got the idle control valve back on and it seems that the clean with petrol had fixed it, ticking over at about 1k now It's still raining though so still no exhaust!

[Rob Turbo 3]

Got the exhaust built and took it out for a spin, the management light came on almost straight away telling me the idle control valve is fubar so I've sourced another one. Also there's something wrong with the boost control, I'll look into that tomorrow.

 

I took it down my mate's to show him my handy work, popped the bonet and found oil on the block, seems to be coming either from the oil pressure switch or the heat exchanger, again, I'll look into it tomorrow, but when I looked under the car I noticed both inner cv boots split, seem to have hit the subframe!

 

The exhaust is rattling off the heat shield under the petrol tank as well, that's a simple fix though, just need to loosen the clamps and turn it a bit. So it's back on the drive until I can fix everything!

[mwilcock 0]

wot engine mount did u use for the engine? and is the engine out the the xm or 406 sri? im doing this conversion now.

 

Mike

[Rob Turbo 3]

I used a 306 xsi topmount, I'm not sure what the engine came out of, but it has dished pistons so I know it's a 150bhp engine, probably from a 406 or xantia

[mwilcock 0]

both pieces off a 306 xsi? im lookin for 1 and i cnt bloody find 1 anywhere its doin mi hed in

[Rob Turbo 3]

Yeah, both the bit that bolts to the block and the bit that goes across to the rubber mount

[mwilcock 0]

my engines in now too as for the wiring???

 

click

[Rob Turbo 3]

I can't view the link because I'm not a member, and I'm not paying £6 to register either!!

[Rob Turbo 3]

Got the engine raised by about 15-20mm so the cv joints have more room, the cv boots hadn't split, the clip had came off on the passenger side so I replaced it and the drivers side was fine, it was just mud from getting it out of the field where I'd been doing the work so all good there!

 

The oil leak was coming from the oil pressure switch because there was no seal on it, so I put one on and it's all good! Just need to wait for the ICV to come and it'll be sorted!

 

I've also bought an oil pressure gauge, it said in the write up that it comes with everything needed to fit it but I bet I still need to get a T piece!

Edited January 4, 2008 by Rob Turbo

[mwilcock 0]

o yeh i 4got bout having to pay!

 

Rob u fancy coming to wigan and wiring my engine

[daza4 24]

Sounds like a good project. But a little short on pictures?? What happened in the start it was all ok then nothing?? Any piccis please.

[Rob Turbo 3]

As I said before my phone started taking really blury photos no matter what I do so I stopped taking them, I'll see about getting some photos of it with another camera/phone, although it's not very neat under the bonet yet! I'm not finished playing with the boost control, cooling fan control and the inlet pipework!

[sonofsam 5]

As I said before my phone started taking really blury photos no matter what I do so I stopped taking them,

 

My cam. phone does exactly the same thing, like it's got water inside the lens or something

 

How does She does drive Rob? My RGX has been very good to me

I know the t-peice size as i had one from LMA, cannot remember off hand though!

[Rob Turbo 3]

It still won't go properly!

 

Now it won't boost over about 4psi, I still can't get full throttle or it dies and the idle is still too high even with the new ICV, the fault code has gone but there's a new one now - 47, according to autodata this could be wastegate regulating valve, MAP sensor, TPS, exhaust leak or intake leak, I've tried a few different TPS's and I've tried a different wastegate regulating solenoid, checked the intake and exhaust for leaks and there are none, only thing left on that list is the MAP sensor, which I can't really swap for another one (unless I try another ecu, which I don't have!). But according to a fault code list I found on the internet, code 47 could be linear EGR position - Faulty or Air pump relay - Low voltage, any suggestions as to what I could try next?

 

Oh, and the oil pressure gauge came today, like I was expecting it had no T piece (m16x1.5 to thread into the block BTW) and no wires to connect it all up - full fitting kit my arse! I've ordered a T piece and I've got plenty wire kicking about so not too much of a problem!

[Rob Turbo 3]

Found the full throttle and idle problem! The wiring for the TPS is different between the s16 and 2.0 turbo, pins 1 and 2 are the opposite way around

Still not boosting properly though, not sure where that problem is though, I'm gonna get the car jacked up and have a play with the acutator and wastegate, make sure it's opening/closing properly, I'll have a look at the compressor wheel as well to make sure it's intact and spins freely.

[Sloppy 0]

Found the full throttle and idle problem! The wiring for the TPS is different between the s16 and 2.0 turbo, pins 1 and 2 are the opposite way around

Still not boosting properly though, not sure where that problem is though, I'm gonna get the car jacked up and have a play with the acutator and wastegate, make sure it's opening/closing properly, I'll have a look at the compressor wheel as well to make sure it's intact and spins freely.

 

ha ha thats well anoying, at least you have forund out what it is and sorted it now though!

[Rob Turbo 3]

It would appear that the lack of boost is down to a goosed turbo, if you stop and let it tickover it will sometimes kick out LOADS of smoke, not all the time though, the turbo still moves freely though so I don't know why it's not boosting, I'm sick of the bloody thing, it was rebuilt before the engine went in as well

[Sloppy 0]

thats strange, did you bleed the turbo up before starting then engine what oil are you using?

[Rob Turbo 3]

How do you mean bleed the turbo?

 

I've got 10w 40 in now but I've bought some 15w 40 to put in tomorrow, hopefuly that might stop the smoke issue!!

[Sloppy 0]

if the turbosd been off and drained then when you re fit it bvefore firing up the car you need to bleed the turbo, best way it to turn engine over loads before firing so you know the oil pressures right up in the turbo housing.

 

I would not use 15w 40, i work on alot of turbo dervs and always used total quartz 7000 10w 40 as the work much better on it and its nicer to turbos!

[Rob Turbo 3]

I did bleed the turbo then!

 

I did a compression test before the engine went in so I had all the plugs out, engine topped up with fresh oil and turned it over plenty doing the tests.

 

I'm not quite sure what to do about the smoking, there's a few things I'm planning on trying, I just hope I don't need another turbo rebuild!