GLPoomobile 958 Posted November 5, 2007 On my Mi the shunt box has been left dangling in the usual area down near the clutch arm/under the AFM. It's one of the things I wanted to rectify while re-doing some of the loom. The problem I have is there is no slack left at all in the loom to be able to move the shunt box anywhere. Looking in from the front of the car I have the main part of the loom coming in from the left (routed through the channel in the chassis leg), and this is stretched right across the front of the block with the 2 (or is it 3) brown cables that go into the shunt box (there are also two cables that come out of this part of the loom and go to a sensor on the front of the gear box' and they also have little slack to play with). Then from the right there is another cable that comes in, wraps around the mess of cables near the passenger headlight and goes up to the shunt box. Then there is the cable that comes up from the radiator plug to the shunt box. It seems that none of these have enough slack to move the shunt box up, left or right to a better location without twisting or straining anything Has anyone else had this issue and what did you do? Where is a good place to move it to? Whatever the answer, it looks like I'm going to have to lengthen some of the cabling, which I didn'tt want to have to do Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacey205 2 Posted November 5, 2007 (edited) I moved mine down to mount to the battery tray with a bracket made up Photos Im not entirely sure if youll have the slack from how youve described it but mine is all standard length wire so I would think it should work. HTH Michael Edited November 5, 2007 by pacey205 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted November 5, 2007 mine is all standard length wire so I would think it should work. They vary in length a lot! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted November 5, 2007 Just thinking about it, is there any reason why the loom needs to come in from the drivers side? I mean I know it would run near the exhaust, so there's a risk there, but on mine the loom comes through the bulk head and then one part runs up through the chassis leg and across the front of the block, and the other half of the loom runs across the back of the block and up over the gearbox (the half of the loom with the sensor wiring etc. Couldn't I just run the whole lot around the back of the block and over the gearbox as long as it's protected from the exhaust? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu 18 Posted November 5, 2007 I did mine is two halves mate, the ecu lead went across to the drivers side, round the top engine mount bracket on the wing, and down across the alternator. With the sensor loom i came around the back of the block, made up a 'p' clip to mount onto the heater hoses to keep the loom away from the exhaust and routed it over the box, i intend to move the shunt box like pacey's too.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars Posted November 5, 2007 (edited) hi peeps im asking questions again... where did you lot relocate or power distrubution box located on the slam panel on the pass side, so air filter can be fitted in, also where did you locate your ignition amp? im doing a mi16 converstion and finding it hard to find a place for the ignition amp, and also cos the black power box is near the pass side slam panel, my k&n wont fit in as the black box in the way, so needing easy ideas/help where to move them. thanks danny Edited November 5, 2007 by surferkid205 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted November 5, 2007 Refresh my memory - the ignition amp is the little black widget mounted on a metal plate that you'd usually find next to the fuel filter, isn't it? If so, I don't think it matters too much where it goes as long as it is secure, dry and away from heat. You will obviously be limited by how you've routed the loom and how much free play you have with the wiring. What's wrong with the original location on the inner wing near the fuel filter? Oooooops, just realised, you probably aren't talking about the ignition module. Are you talking about the coil (me and electrics ). On mine it's mounted on the passenger side inner wing behind the battery. f*** it, don't listen to me, wait for somebody more sensible to chip in (come back jackherer) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars Posted November 5, 2007 just need advice on where to locate this ignition amp... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars Posted November 5, 2007 Refresh my memory - the ignition amp is the little black widget mounted on a metal plate that you'd usually find next to the fuel filter, isn't it? If so, I don't think it matters too much where it goes as long as it is secure, dry and away from heat. You will obviously be limited by how you've routed the loom and how much free play you have with the wiring. What's wrong with the original location on the inner wing near the fuel filter? Oooooops, just realised, you probably aren't talking about the ignition module. Are you talking about the coil (me and electrics ). On mine it's mounted on the passenger side inner wing behind the battery. f*** it, don't listen to me, wait for somebody more sensible to chip in (come back jackherer) im talking about the ignition module normally located as you said near the filter, but the 405 loom has it near the battery side... so wondering where peeps have located it with ease Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cybernck 402 1 Cars Posted November 5, 2007 i've merged the two topics together. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars Posted November 5, 2007 i've merged the two topics together. thats why i couldnt find it, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacey205 2 Posted November 6, 2007 (edited) See pictures above for where Ive located the power distribution box i.e. onto the battery tray using the hole at the front. As for the ignition amp mine is located in the same place as the original on the inner wing on the passenger side, next to thea header tank. You can just see it in this photo here: HTH Michael Edited November 6, 2007 by pacey205 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted November 6, 2007 What loom is your car from Steve? All the looms I've worked on have still had more than enough slack to mount the shunt box in the standard place, especially if its from a 405. I shortened it on mine to remove some of the extra wire iirc. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted November 6, 2007 What loom is your car from Steve? All the looms I've worked on have still had more than enough slack to mount the shunt box in the standard place, especially if its from a 405. I shortened it on mine to remove some of the extra wire iirc. Graham. IIRC the invoice states that the engine and loom etc are from a 405. The BX has all green wiring doesn't it? Mine isn't green, again indicating it must be from a 405. It also states on the invoice that the loom was rebuilt, though if this was true and it's the same loom then I'd suggest that the work was done by an apprentice . This could mean that some of the wiring has been trimmed back a bit though. I might be able to get a bit more slack from it if I take it out of the channel in the chassis leg and route it up over the top by the cam cover, like a lot of other people do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dream Weaver 2 Posted November 6, 2007 Try to get some slack around the back of the ECU, under the dash. My shunt box is mounted in the normal place on the slam panel, but I mounted it on a bracket from a newer 205, and the bracket was then bent backwards so it is level with the slam panel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted November 17, 2007 Right, I've pulled the loom back out of the channel under the top mount. If I now run it beside the cambelt cover and around that way it looks like I've got just enough slack to relocate the shunt box similarly to how Pacey has done it I've also started pulling the old tape and tubing off of the loom so I can tidy things up. One of the first things I've found is that half way down the loom my starter solenoid wire has been spliced, and not very well either (IMO). So that's another possibility for my dodgy starting shenanigans. I mentioned earlier about routing all of the loom behind the engine, rather than by the cambelt cover. I just want to know if this would be safe to do. Half the loom already goes behind the engine and is connected to the bulkhead between the 2 coolant pipes. If I was to route the rest of the loom this way, will it be OK as long as it is safe from the exhaust? I take it the heat from the coolant pipes won't be enough to cause problems. Also, I've got a Ph1.5 wing mounted coil. Can this be swapped for a Ph2 coil that mounts to the manifold, or is the wiring different? I've got a working Ph2 coil from my old 1.9 8V. Can I use this or are they different on an Mi (actually that's probably a dum question, since I guess the current coil must be the original 1.6 coil for this car ). If it's OK to swap, then I guess it's just a case of getting the Mi manifold bracket and sticking my spare coil in place, yes? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted November 18, 2007 The wing mounted coil isnt really needed if your using an Mi loom & ecu imo, use the coil plug from the Mi loom & fit the coil to the inlet as originally done on the Mi. Mi coil is same as the later 205 8v one. The wiring is up to you. The cooling pipes shouldn't get anywhere near hot enough to cause any trouble but personally I prefer to route the loom as original rather than splitting it off. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted November 18, 2007 Cheers Graham. I'd forgotten that the Ph2 coil uses a 4 pin plug connection, so all I have to do is unplug and remove the link loom between the plug and wing mounted coil, and plug the Ph2 coil in. Nice and simple. Now I just need to find a bracket. I'll have a play around with the loom once it's all stripped back and see which route works best. I just don't see the point in having half the loom running one way and the other the other way, even if it's how Pug intended! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted November 18, 2007 Pug didn't intend the loom to be seperate with half routed one way & the other another way. Thats been done by whoever did the conversion originally imo. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted November 18, 2007 Oh, ok. I just figured they were always done like that! Isn't it the case with the 8v's too, that you have half the loom coming past the cambelt cover and across the front of the block, and the other half (sensor loom?) behind the block and over the gearbox? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C_W 3 1 Cars Posted November 18, 2007 Depends on the age of the car, my 88F had one single loom that all goes in under the dash near the steering column, my custom Mi16 loom does the same. Strangely I have seen F plates that have the seperate loom, with the sensors going in the passenger side somewhere. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted November 18, 2007 Depends on the age of the car, my 88F had one single loom that all goes in under the dash near the steering column, my custom Mi16 loom does the same. Strangely I have seen F plates that have the seperate loom, with the sensors going in the passenger side somewhere. Sorry, I think I didn't describe myself correctly (that's me politely saying you've got the wrong end of the stick )! What I mean is that the loom comes out of the bulkhead on the drivers side and then divides in two - one half goes along the drivers side (either by the cambelt cover and top mount, or in my case, through the channel underneath the top mount) and then under the inlet manifold and along the front of the block. The other half goes along the back of the engine, above the exhaust manifold (no where near touching though) and then comes around to the front of the block by routing over the gearbox. I was under the impression that most Mi installs are done like this (going by pictures I've seen and the handful I've seen in the flesh), and also that the 8v's were like this as standard, but my memory may be playing tricks on me with that one! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacey205 2 Posted November 18, 2007 Dont think any 8v were ever like that from the factory. The main engine loom comes through the bulkhead round the top engine mount and under the inlet manifold. In Later (I think) cars the sensor loom is routed with the engine loom. In earlier cars it comes in round by the header tank somewhere and routes round that way, either with the headlight loom or just under the header tank (I presume). I think that is how it works from what Ive heard/read although Ive never seen a car in the flesh with the seperate sensor loom. Michael Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted November 18, 2007 Oh, ok. I just figured they were always done like that! Isn't it the case with the 8v's too, that you have half the loom coming past the cambelt cover and across the front of the block, and the other half (sensor loom?) behind the block and over the gearbox? Not on any I've seen. Like Chris says, pre ~88 cars have the sensor, starter solenoid & alternator wires coming from the passenger side to the engine & the ecu out of the driverside bulkhead but after they swapped to the under dash brown multiplugs (& engine bay brown multiplug) the loom ran all in one over by the cambelt cover & under the inlet manifold across the engine. All the wiring conversions I've done or worked on have ended up with the wiring going over in one as per the later 205's (where-ever possible) but I've not done any on a pre ~88 car (yet). Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted November 18, 2007 (edited) OK. This is good, I'm learning more (never ceases to amaze me how I can still learn something new on this forum after all this time ). So to review the situation, the way my loom has been 'split' and routed in two directions is unusual, as well as unnecessary. The shunt box was left dangling as the routing of the loom meant there was not enough slack to fix it to anything. The alternator exciter wire had snapped off. The oil pressure sender terminal was loose and kept falling of the sender. There is no oil pressure warning light (dunno yet if it's blown bulb, dodgy wiring, or dead switch), had temperamental starter solenoid, likely due to a bad bit of splicing in the wire half way along the loom, the +VE cable to the shunt box and starter/alternator was frayed at the battery terminal and hanging out, the radiator fan speed resistor was left dangling in the wind, and the injector plugs have seen better days (broken housings so barely clipped in place). Am I painting a pretty picture yet? Edited November 18, 2007 by GLPoomobile Share this post Link to post Share on other sites