Guest mjd0 Posted November 5, 2007 What a great site - and have already gained loadsa 205 gti info - but.....Im not to mechanical pug 205 gti H reg was going along fine - loss of power and acceleration ,jerky (didnt notice what rev counter or if any dash lights were on ) so had to stop at (lucky!) layby car wont start - checking engine - bit of oily fluid inside throttle body and intake manifold back home still cant start car - car is turning over at starter - all belts/chains intact - fuel to the fuel rail ( checked by removing hose to the fuel rail and letting it empty into a bucket while trying to start car) spark at HT leads going to spark plugs ( tested with nail in the HT lead to metal on engine) checked and fixed any obvious dubious electrical connections ( brown multiplug ) only mods are shortened induction as per pugtorques guide on website Have just ordered an ignition module and ECU in trying to test and eliminate parts - (With the ECU can i just plug this in swap for swap? - no remapping or matching to AFM? ) Any ideas what else to check? Will possibly be looking at engine upgrade later but if theres serious engine probs will just do a like for like swap with another 1.9gti engine - anyone know where i can obtain a good running engine? and fit it or assist me fit it?! cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickie 3 Posted November 5, 2007 (edited) you still have a timing belt in one peace right? oops didnt read it properly, if you have fuel and a spark and all belts are fine, it should work unless theres a major internal problem Edited November 5, 2007 by mickie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest mjd0 Posted November 5, 2007 you still have a timing belt in one peace right? oops didnt read it properly, if you have fuel and a spark and all belts are fine, it should work unless theres a major internal problem Yeh! I think I checked that - but only by feeling tension in it not a complete visual check Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
large 33 Posted November 5, 2007 New ecu sould be fine. If you are realy stuck i am not that far away and could sort something out if you wanted a running car to swap parts with i had a the same fault and it was the AFM. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve@cornwall 100 Posted November 5, 2007 you still have a timing belt in one peace right? oops didnt read it properly, if you have fuel and a spark and all belts are fine, it should work unless theres a major internal problem Just because there is fuel to the rail, doesn't mean the injectors are actually firing it into the cylinder.or with the pugs, that there's not far too much fuel! If it were overfuelling I would expect it would have started when cranking with the fuel line disconnected, unless the plugs have glazed due to too much fuel. My ine of attack would be o change the plugs (can't ever hurt eh?) then unbolt the fuel rail, complete with injectors and position so as, should they fire the fuel goes into the injector holes in the head (10 - 20mm gap between injector / hole) This will show if the injectors are firing - suspect ignition amp if not? and if it''s been massively overfuelled, the extra air will allow it to start! If it starts like this check the connections to the afm and blue ecu temp. sender under the dizzy. In would think you're a long way off considering an engine swap yet - you'd probably just be swapping the engine into a car with the problem still present anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest mjd0 Posted November 6, 2007 Just because there is fuel to the rail, doesn't mean the injectors are actually firing it into the cylinder.or with the pugs, that there's not far too much fuel! If it were overfuelling I would expect it would have started when cranking with the fuel line disconnected, unless the plugs have glazed due to too much fuel. My ine of attack would be o change the plugs (can't ever hurt eh?) then unbolt the fuel rail, complete with injectors and position so as, should they fire the fuel goes into the injector holes in the head (10 - 20mm gap between injector / hole) This will show if the injectors are firing - suspect ignition amp if not? and if it''s been massively overfuelled, the extra air will allow it to start! If it starts like this check the connections to the afm and blue ecu temp. sender under the dizzy. In would think you're a long way off considering an engine swap yet - you'd probably just be swapping the engine into a car with the problem still present anyway. cheers for the advice - will try that - and report back Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
