Will This Connection Be Ok?

[GLPoomobile 958]

Got some big, fat, new start cable running to my starter (obviously) and alternator and new ring terminals.

 

I don't have a suitable crimping tool for these terminals and the right tool isn't exactly cheap, so I decided to opt for soldering instead.

 

Using a blow torch to heat the terminal, I've melted a substantial amount of solder into the joint and have a nice strong connection.

 

But in terms of conductivity, will this be ok, or not as good as if I'd crimped it properly? I'd imagine no difference but wanted to check as the last thing I want is to find out the connection is not as good and introduce more problems!

[sutol 0]

Soldered joints in my opinion provide an excellent conductivity joint but are weaker mechanicaly than a crimped joint.

If you know what I mean

[28CRAIG 2]

I would say a big no solder in a hot engine bay is asking for problems unless it's heat shrinked and inside copex.

[Mikey S 29 1 Cars]

I would say a big no solder in a hot engine bay is asking for problems unless it's heat shrinked and inside copex.

 

 

theres absolutely no problem using solder in an engine bay.

 

soldered joints are stronger, but there more suseptable to fatigue caused by vibration.

[jackherer 543]

Solder can be brittle enough to crack in an automotive environment. And if this wire breaks off and touches any earthed metal it will start a fire so make sure you insulate it well if you go down this route.

[sutol 0]

I would say a big no solder in a hot engine bay is asking for problems unless it's heat shrinked and inside copex.

Why ?

[sutol 0]

Solder can be brittle enough to crack in an automotive environment.

Weak mechanical joint

[GLPoomobile 958]

So conductivity wise it's ok.

 

As for protecting the joint I've got heatshrink covering the 'sleeve' of the terminal back to about 1cm down the insulation of the cble and I've got new rubber L boots over every ring terminal. Sound Ok?

[Alastairh 47]

As long as you use decent heat shrink and heat with a gun then using solder is fine in a bay. After all, what else are you gonna use, twisted bit of wire and smidgen of tape, or even better, chocolate blocks

 

Personally, id go spend the £20 to buy a crimping tool, you buy one for life, and you'd be surprised how useful they are and gives you total reliability which is what your after isn't it?

 

Al

[tom_m 0]

So conductivity wise it's ok.

 

As for protecting the joint I've got heatshrink covering the 'sleeve' of the terminal back to about 1cm down the insulation of the cble and I've got new rubber L boots over every ring terminal. Sound Ok?

 

its fine mate. i've done exactly the same with mine without any problems whatsoever.

[maturin23 10]

Any suggestions which is a good crimping tool at that price, Al - I bought a cheaper one and it lasted for the Mi install but broke shortly after.

 

As the weather is getting colder the classic 'turn key, click, turn key, no click, turn key, vroooom" is taking longer and longer before the 'vrooom' - so time to do something about it

[GLPoomobile 958]

Any suggestions which is a good crimping tool at that price, Al - I bought a cheaper one and it lasted for the Mi install but broke shortly after.

 

As the weather is getting colder the classic 'turn key, click, turn key, no click, turn key, vroooom" is taking longer and longer before the 'vrooom' - so time to do something about it

 

Looking in the VWP catalogue the cheapest crimping tool for doing ring terminals is about £18. But because I'm using 16mm square cable these are no good. The next tools up are about £40 to £60.

 

Yes, I want reliability but I'm not sure I want to pay that much for a tool to do a handful of ring terminals and then sit in my tool collection for ever more

[GLPoomobile 958]

So does anyone know where to get a crimping tool that is suitable for ring terminals of about 7.5mm diameter, or for cable of 16mm square? Don't want to spend too much.

 

Otherwise I'm going to live with the soldered method.