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Guest gt6jim

Clutch Change?

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Guest gt6jim

Hi All, getting some wee slippage it high rpms on my 1.6, so I'm gonna do a Clutch change in a few weeks.

I've never done one on a FWD car.

I guess the only major hardship is supporting the engine when the gearbox is out, as I guess the gearbox supports the weight of the engine?

 

Is there anything else I should change/check whilst its it?

 

How long should it take?

 

Cheers, Jim

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jackherer

Change the crank seal and driveshaft seals while its out.

 

I can't believe I'm saying this but the haynes actually covers a clutch change pretty well.

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welshpug

check the crankshaft seal, and the input shaft seals. its a good idea to replace the driveshaft seals too, and obviously the box oil, with good quality 75w80.

 

you need to support the engine in some way or other, most DIY'ers use a decent sized trolley jack, in work I use a gantry and support the engine by the lifting hook on the head, this means I can lift or lower the engine as I want.

 

as for how long it should take depends on how skilled you are, I know people that can do it in a few hours, book time IIRC is 3.

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Guest gt6jim
Change the crank seal and driveshaft seals while its out.

 

I can't believe I'm saying this but the haynes actually covers a clutch change pretty well.

 

Ha, I know what you mean the Haynes is a piece of crap really!

 

Where do you get your crank seal/ driveshaft seals from? Pug?

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Chris H
Ha, I know what you mean the Haynes is a piece of crap really!

 

Where do you get your crank seal/ driveshaft seals from? Pug?

 

I always get my box seals from GSF i imagine they are the same parts as O.E.

 

Also...pretty obvious but have a good check of your drive shaft boots and wheel bearings for play whilst the shafts are out.

Maybe check your gear linkage rods too.

 

I find the engine often swings towards the bulkhead when the box is off and you'll need to swing it back towards the rad to get the box back in, i often brace the engine to the bulkhead with a block of wood. Its now much easier that i have a purpose made engine holding frame that goes across the negine bay.

 

If you have the bracket on the back of the starter in place you can leave the starter in situ.

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Miles

I;ve found the last couple of D/S from GSF have leaked, So I'm on Pug ones which are slightly different, I guess GSF have a bad batch in

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28CRAIG

It also helps if some one can turn the crank with a 22mm socket while putting the box back on it can be a pain to line the splines up and should slip on easy this way.

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