Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
matt-k

Mi16 Engine Rebuild.

Recommended Posts

matt-k

Hi, Ive just rebuilt my engine in the garage and when i turn the engine over slowly by hand with the sump off i can hear that air is being blown past the pistons on the compression stroke, it has new piston rings and a coating of oil when i reasembled it all. Does this mean my liners are shot or is this normal to have some air leakage??

 

Thanks, matt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

did you hone the bores?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
matt-k

No, i showed the liners to a mechanic and he said they would be fine? I want the engine to be right so if there should be no air getting through to the bottom end when turning the engine by hand please let me know? I was thinking (hoping!) that this was normal and when the engine is running under its own steam with correct oil pressure the pistons will be moving much faster and the air wont have time to seep out so much??

Basically when the pison is nearly at the top of the copression stroke (on all pistons) you can hear the compressed air start to "fart" past the piston to the bottom end. I know the piston rings have gaps in them so surely an air tight seal is not possible? :o

 

Any help appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pugman211

Mine does that, (im in the middle of a rebuild) so thats why i decided to buy new rings and Re-hone the liners. Only thing i can think is what you said that because your doing it by hand, the air is being allowed to escape slighty. Did you set the ring gaps at different places??? i.e the gaps 180 degrees from each other?????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
matt-k

Yes i did set the rings at different places. How long before you can test yours again with the re-honed liners? I would be interested if it stops this happening?

How much does it cost to re-hone the liners or can i do it myself? If so how?

 

Thanks, Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pugman211

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=81142

 

Thats another topic currently going on about re-honing the liners. IIRC, QEP sell the tool but you may be able to find it in some motor factor stores etc.

 

basically, you spin the tool in the liner but make sure you move it up and down and you use plenty of oil - heard of WD-40 being a good one to use. Let us know how you get on as i'm interested in hearing the result seeing as your on carbs!!!! :o

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
matt-k

Will do mate, alot of people keep telling me that twin 40's are no good for an Mi16 but since i already had some and didnt have an ecu, wiring loom ect i thought i'd give them ago. Ive looked into it and with the correct chokes, jets & long trumpets i think they should work fine. If not i'll sell them and buy some 45's.

 

Anyone elts know anything on my original post?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
skeggyrik

Mine does the exact same thing as you describe, I am still in the process of taking mine a part though, so I don't know if it should happen when everything is new and rebuilt.

 

If you have new rings, they will need time to bed into the liners I presume.

Doesn't explain why mine does it though. Will be going new rings and liners honed route.

 

Rich

Edited by skeggyrik

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
matt-k

Hello again, I gave Nu-Line engineering a call today and told them exactly what was happening with my engine. They say that air getting past the piston rings is totally normal on a rebuilt engine with new rings as they will take some time to bed in properly. I asked if i should remove the liners again and re-hone them but they seem to think this is not nessasary and i have nothing to worry about! Eccellent! :wacko:

These guys have done some work for me in the past and really do know there stuff when it comes to engines.

 

Matt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rnotman67

How much can the liners be honed by. mines have a very slighty noticable lip at the top. i have fitted new ring to the pistons. will i get away with this just

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
matt-k
How much can the liners be honed by. mines have a very slighty noticable lip at the top. i have fitted new ring to the pistons. will i get away with this just

 

If you have your engine in pieces its worth buying a honing tool and doing the job anyway, there only cheap to buy. Im no pro on the lip on the liners mind so its up to you.

 

Matt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pee vee

air will always leak past the rings somehow. as there is gaps in them.

 

thats why you need a breather system on the car. to get rid of all the gas that does get past the rings and into the sump...

 

you notice on worn engines they 'breathe' heavier as things are a bit more worn.. turbo cars do it worse still as they are being forced.

Edited by pee vee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
clifton

im rebuilding an mi16 engine (code d6c) just wondering where people get there piston rings and the ones underneath the 2 piston rings(forgotten the name of them)

 

so where do you all get them from and how much are they please?

 

ben

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ajm-e30

the oil ring you mean?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
matt-k

I ordered mine from Nu-Line engineering in lincoln not sure if they post parts out to you but they know there stuff, i would'nt trust a local motor factors with ordering the right parts, i know mine got it wrong afew times so i gave up on them! I took my old piston rings to nu-line and they measured them with a vernier and got the right ones. Your best of measuring them as i think there were two different sizes for this engine.

 

The Part Number for the piston Rings on a 1.9 XU9J4 (alloy Block) engine is,

 

08-323400-00

 

Dimentions,

 

83x1.5+1.5+3mmSTD

 

At least thats whats printed on the box! The make of these ones is GOETZE

 

I cant remember how much they cost me 60-70 quid i think, You get all 3 rings for each piston in the set. If your takeing all the pistons out you may as well remove the wet liners too and replace rubber seals as well they only cost about a quid each!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
clifton
I ordered mine from Nu-Line engineering in lincoln not sure if they post parts out to you but they know there stuff, i would'nt trust a local motor factors with ordering the right parts, i know mine got it wrong afew times so i gave up on them! I took my old piston rings to nu-line and they measured them with a vernier and got the right ones. Your best of measuring them as i think there were two different sizes for this engine.

 

The Part Number for the piston Rings on a 1.9 XU9J4 (alloy Block) engine is,

 

08-323400-00

 

Dimentions,

 

83x1.5+1.5+3mmSTD

 

At least thats whats printed on the box! The make of these ones is GOETZE

 

I cant remember how much they cost me 60-70 quid i think, You get all 3 rings for each piston in the set. If your takeing all the pistons out you may as well remove the wet liners too and replace rubber seals as well they only cost about a quid each!

 

thanx that helps alot

 

but how would i go about getting the wet liners out?

 

has anybody ordered parts from peugeot? if they have has anybody got the part numbers?

 

ben

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kyepan

just a quick question chaps on the ring to bore clearance, isn't info on this documented, and should it not be measurable with feeler gauges? especially on the thrust face of the liner where most wear occurs?

 

J

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pugman211

Wouldn't use Peugeot for parts as they are mega dear!

 

As for removing the liners, turn the block upside down, and i used a 3"x2" piece of wood and a small lump hammer to knock them out. Just remember to catch the liners before they hit the ground! :o;):(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Rom

Any decent motor factors will be able to get rings. Just make sure to use OE spec ones, not cheap nasty ones.

 

As for the liners, as above, tapping them works. But you will need to replace the liner seals. There not exspensive from main dealer.

Id always hone the liners. The tools arent a lot, but i guess for a one off use its not that practical. Just attach it to a drill, loads of oil, and work it up and down. Make sure you dont stay in one place or stop moving. The cross hatching should look even all over.

As for the lip, dont worry too much about it unless its massive. Its just the highest point the piston reaches,so above it doesnt get any wear from the rings at all.

Once the rings have bedded in, they will seal a lot better. But you need to hone the liners to do it properly. Not worth not doing while its in pieces :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sloppy

surely on the ali block engine with them being wet liners you can just obtain new ones for a reasonable fee?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hilgie

It will always blow a little air by when the engine is cold. The piston rings start sealing properly when the engine is hot (hence why you need a small gap between the rings ends).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pee vee
just a quick question chaps on the ring to bore clearance, isn't info on this documented, and should it not be measurable with feeler gauges? especially on the thrust face of the liner where most wear occurs?

 

J

 

 

you definitly should NOT have a gap between the outer edge of the ring and the bore wall, no..

 

the only gap should be at the end of the piston ring where the two 'halves' meet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

×