skeggyrik 3 Posted October 6, 2007 (edited) What have you lot used in the past to lock the crank pulley while you undo the crank pulley bolt and spacer? I've soaked it in WD40 but it won't shift. I've just bent a drill bit and an old allen key trying to get it free. It can't be too long othwewise i can't get the socket over bolt. Ideas? Oh and so much for halford pro tools, i snapped the 55Torx bit on the second head bolt, so i'm off down there now to get a replacement (lifetime garantee so should be free). Edited October 6, 2007 by skeggyrik Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pob 1 Posted October 6, 2007 Have you tried heating the crank bolt up with a blow torch? Did this on mine with a impact wrench and came out no problem. If you haven't got a impact wrench a spanner and sharp taps/wacks with a hammer can sometimes shift it. As for the Halfords tools, if your using the one that comes in the socket set it will be a small one and will snap on head bolts, You need the bigger version, that will shift it. Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ablister 31 Posted October 6, 2007 an air gun should get it off if you have access to one. May risk breaking the block webbing if you jam the pulley on it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted October 6, 2007 Lock the flywheel in place by any means you have, the dia of that makes the pulley easy to come off, They can be tight depending on how much thread lock has been used Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brianthemagical 1 Posted October 6, 2007 jam a screwdriver in the flywheel, i think thats a recognised way of doing it, impact guns are good if you have one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted October 7, 2007 If you intend to keep a 205 for any length of time then its well worth spending about £10 on a proper flywheel locking tool from franklin or Snap on. Locks into the flywheel & stops the engine turning no matter how much torque you need to get the flywheel bolt undone. It takes very little torque to break the webbing off on the engine plate. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acox99 74 1 Cars Posted October 8, 2007 (edited) An air gun do the job like you never believe! never had one before but buying a cheap compressor and getting hold of loads of air tools from a garage closing down makes life so much easier! If not my old trick was in 1st gear, someone on the brakes and a bloody long bar, a bit awkward but a long bar means more torque applied more evenly so less easy for the engine to go round if the brakes are locked. Edited October 8, 2007 by acox99 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skeggyrik 3 Posted October 8, 2007 It takes very little torque to break the webbing off on the engine plate. I found this out. Engine is out of the car, flywheel is off and it's on an engine stand, so I persisted with locking the pulley, I bought a 10mm bolt with a long plane section and cut it down and it fit perfectly locking the bottom pulley (much better than the allen key/drill bit pictured above). Before I went back to it, I checked the forum but it was down "being updated" So I went ahead and I managed to snap the webbing off the block, much to my disgust. The salt in the wound was checking the forum responses to find the warnings about that very scenario. So I got no further, it's still on there and I've snapped the lug off the block. God knows where it shot off to. Don't know what to do about that…... I need an air gun and compressor to get it undone, so I might get mobile mechanic to come by and do it. I'm not about to invest in all that gear. As for the Torx bit Halfords were no issue when it came to replacing the snapped bit in line with the lifetime guarantee, so that was good. I need to get me a meatier torx bit though, don't want to snap another one, nearly gave myself a black eye the first time. Not happy all round. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alex205mi16 1 Posted October 8, 2007 i have a snap on meaty T55 torx you can lend. Nubbin, i told you to half inch the engine from the black one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacey205 2 Posted October 8, 2007 Sump off, block of wood, jam the crank with said wood against side of block, undo bolt. Job jobbed. Michael Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamirGTI 342 Posted October 8, 2007 (edited) Hi ! Try like this : - take one big screwdriver and jam it inbetween the one teeth of the flywheel and block surface ( fine someone/mate to help you out during this - get him under and let him hold the screwdriver firmly jammed when you untight the main crank pulley bolt ! ) pics (for the better understanding) : http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c151/Pie...rrent=lock3.jpg http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c151/Pie...rrent=lock1.jpg http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c151/Pie...rrent=lock2.jpg Cheers ! Damir Edited October 8, 2007 by DamirGTI Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daza4 24 Posted October 8, 2007 So I went ahead and I managed to snap the webbing off the block What happens if like me you have also done this? Does the block need replacing or can you still use it ? sorry to hijack but would like to know for my sake!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wardy18 33 1 Cars Posted October 8, 2007 this sounds like a hell of a lot of effort and pain i need to remove this bolt so i can fit on the Piper Cam Timing disc so i can check the vernier pulley settings anyone know of an easier way to do this while the engine is still in the car?! another thing, what webbing on the block, cant think which bit u mean, any pics?! cheers guys Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted October 8, 2007 What happens if like me you have also done this? Does the block need replacing or can you still use it ? No, the block doesn't need replacing. The part of the block with the webbing on is just an end plate, fitted to most XU engines so you should be able to find one in a scrapyard if you want to replace it imo. i need to remove this bolt so i can fit on the Piper Cam Timing disc so i can check the vernier pulley settings anyone know of an easier way to do this while the engine is still in the car?! another thing, what webbing on the block, cant think which bit u mean, any pics?! With the engine in the car its an easy job, either buy a proper flywheel locking tool like I posted a picture of above or it can be done with a decent flat bladed screwdriver at a struggle. The webbing in the block is in the picture attached to this post. The bolt through the pulley is located in it but its usually hidden by the belt covers. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pob 1 Posted October 8, 2007 If the engine is out and on a engine stand, have you tried bolting a metal bar on the flywheel and jamming it against the stand... Heat the crank bolt up until its very very hot, I normally spray it with WD40 when its hot then either a impact gun or a short t-bar and sharp taps with a hammer. I've never had a crank bolt that I've been unable to undo with this method, I had a crank bolt that wouldn't undo with a impact gun, but a t-bar or similar and hitting it round with a hammer when hot shifts it. Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wardy18 33 1 Cars Posted October 8, 2007 so this webbing isnt a huge issue if you break it, simply buy a flywheel locking tool?! i must own up, i was bein a bit dense and thought the pulley in question was the cam belt pulley, but its not, its the alternator belt pulley or Crank Pulley, this sets my mind at rest and makes teh job sound a whole lot easier!! thanx for your help (sorry to jump in on ur thread btw) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skeggyrik 3 Posted October 9, 2007 Thanks for the replies. First thing I need to do is get the head off as I can't go spinning the crank round with that on, as I'll be bending valves! Hence the reason I had the crank pinned at the time. I will be picking up a torx bit that is up to do that job. (I know I could just take the cams out of the head to avoid the issue) Once that's done I can go about locking the crank by either a wedge of wood or by bolting a bar to the flywheel end of the crank. Will try the impact method to get it loose and break it free from the thread lock. As for the webbing I've had a couple of people tell me they have done the same. Small consolation. I want a fully equipped workshop for my own use! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
