Starting Problems

[Veero 1]

Right I've been having tempramental starting problems on the Mi16 for a while now but after a few clicks it always went. Last night it wouldn't even click the solenoid. Usually wiggling the connector on the solenoid and trying again got it going. No dice last night. So I switched the ignition to on, and connected a wire from the solenoid and touched it on the + terminal and it turned over straight away with no clicking and started.

 

After doing a search this morning and finding lots of helpful posts I have come to the conclusion it is most likey something to do with the ignition barrel wiring and my starter motor is most likely ok.

 

So does this mean I have to change the wiring to the barrel, or that it is physically something wrong with the igntion barrel itself?? I have the original key still so removing the old one isn't a problem and I am ok with having a different key for the ignition, but what do I actually need to change? The ingition barrel itself, or just the switch (held on the end with 2 screws?)?

 

This sounds like a common problem.

 

Oh and by the way I already have bypassed the brown multi plug and run a wire spliced onto the starter solenoid wire on the ignition direct to the solenoid itself. Oh and I have an aftermarket immobiliser which cuts off the fuel pump and starter connection so maybe it's that that is on the blink?

 

Thanks

 

Veero

[Anthony 1,003]

Run a wire from the wiring coming from ignition barrel directly to the starter solenoid, and see if this solves the problem.

 

The wiring and switch can be seperated from the actual barrel, so you can swap it over but retain the existing key.

[gti_al 1]

I opened the barrel once... getting the springs and stuff back in made an extra key look like a very small issue.

 

My new barrel came with a new loom and plugs though, so i fitted the whole lot. Seems silly not to use the new stuff if it is there. My new barrel is much... tighter anyway. I won't describe the comparison i was going to make, but i'm sure with some imagination you could work it out.

[Anthony 1,003]

I opened the barrel once... getting the springs and stuff back in made an extra key look like a very small issue.

If you had springs exposed you opened the wrong bit - it's the two long bolts on the back, and the steering lock section comes off and allows you to remove the wiring and switch complete. Sounds to me like you were trying to open up the barrel itself.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

If you had springs exposed you opened the wrong bit - it's the two long bolts on the back, and the steering lock section comes off and allows you to remove the wiring and switch complete.

I agree, you can seperate the barrel to just the barrel & wiring plug like this picture shows it.

 

Swapping that part of the barrel over can be a short term affair though. The internal return spring for when its started can break & then you have to physically moveit back the fraction to disconnect the starter. Then any touch of the key can engage the starter again causing lots of nasty noises & possibly the need for a new starter.

 

Graham.

[steve@cornwall 100]

Run a wire from the wiring coming from ignition barrel directly to the starter solenoid, and see if this solves the problem.

 

 

This is what I have done, with the original wiring left in place. Starts first time every time now. (Original wiring and new wire into one new connector on solenoid. runs under stat housing until taped to expansion bottle hose, behind heatshield, and enters bulkhead with speedo cable and joined into loom where the orange wire from barrel where it was split for the immobiliser)