pugman211 0 Posted September 30, 2007 Hey guys/gals! Before people shout, i have used the search bar! Basically, i've been installing a 1.9 Mi into my 309 (sorry for not being a 205), and after finally getting an exhaust system for it, i've got it running so it was hot for once, without going deaf! . And when it was warm i confirmed my suspicsions that the big ends were indeed knocking. Although its only slight, i've now decided to rebuild it, but i'm just trying to weigh up my options for rebuild. Do i try to get away with just shells and a regrind/replacement crank, or while i'm at it, to do i go the whole hog and do a full hit???? I know that alot depends on the person themselves, and how old the engine is etc which is why i'm leaning to a full hit, but i really just wanna get this car back on the road (been off the road for many years now due to the kids). The car itself, has a full bodykit on it from Esquiss, so the car is more about looks than performance and certainly wont ever be on a track day, atleast not for a few years etc. So, if i go for just a set of new shells and regrind/replacement crank ive got these on my list: New shells Regrind/replacement (should i bother to get it lightened and balanced???) New gaskets/seals where applicable new oil (10w40 being best???) new gear oil (seeing as i'll have to take gearbox off) new water pump (hasn't had one) new cam belt and tensioners (because that would really **** me off if it snapped afterwards) But if i do decide to do the whole lot, where would i get the best performance from the engine???? I have spent many months reading other peoples plans etc and building my own ideas up etc. Say we start from the top down, it would be a case of: High lift cams (probably catcams) Throttle bodies (only because i prefer them to carbs setting up etc) port and polish head with big valves etc (probably from Puma) 4-2-1 from miles head skim and new gasket set top and bottom new head bolts new piston rings and re-hone the liners new liner O rings new crank and shells (reason for this in first place ) extended oil pickup from Petert and baffled sump new belts and tensioners new water pump etc Anything else i should be thinking about????? Money isn't an issue really, i'll just buy bits and pieces as and when i can. Timescale isnt a problem either as the car has been off road for so long now, wont hurt to wait a bit longer! lol. But any recommendations for THIS engine would be appreciated. Baz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James_R 3 Posted October 3, 2007 Without want to sound like I'm on the band wagon, why not just get hold of a GTi-6 engine? they're coming up at a cheap enough price now and area completely different engine to the Mi to start off with. then if you wanted go bodies etc. from there with that? Otherwise I'd just suggest doing a refresh on the std engine and get motoring, the fun is in the driving not building a car least for me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
205007 12 Posted October 3, 2007 i know you say money isnt an issue but buying a new crank? seems like a crazy idea to me just grind yours and get back on the road! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugman211 0 Posted October 6, 2007 Hey Guys!!! Well, here is the score (pardon for the pun). Firstly, i found the exhaust manifold was leaking, and that was making the engine really ticking on idle. Turns out, 2 of the studs had loosened off and that was making it tap/tick etc. But i was still unsure, so seeing as the car was already jacked up, i dropped the oil and whizzed off the sump. Everything was looking ok at first. None of the pistons were moving up and down on the crank. But then i moved them sideways, and there it was. Pistons 2 and 3 were knocking from side to side. So i bit the bullet, and cracked off No.2 (nearest to the flywheel) and i found this..................... Feeling demolarised. I didnt bother with piston No. 3 (the one under the oil pickup), So i did piston No.1 (flywheel), because that wasn't moving at all from side to side etc, and i found this there........... SO, a rebuild it is then!! Funny thing is, i torqued up the end caps, and refitted the sump and oil etc. Turned the engine on, now that it was alot quieter i could hear things. and yet, it still wasn't knocking!!!!! However i DO think, the crank could be knackered. If you look at the first pic, you can see the little notch that holds the shell in place, is FLAT!! Are you thinking what i'm thinking, that its spun a bearing??????? Now i have few questions which hopefully, your own experiences will help me with. I've decided to do just the basic rebuild i can get away with for now so i can get the car on the road. 1: Do i use OE parts or will other suppliers be better????? 2: Do i replace all shells related to the crank, big ends mains and thrust??? 3: Can i use T16 shells?????? (seen on Hiflows website) I'm gonna do this with the engine in situ, simply because i haven't got the space to take the engine out, so here's the parts list. New cam belt New Tensioners New water pump New crank seals New shells New sump gasket. New oil Crank regrind/replacement (will probably put up an Ad in wanted section. Can anyone tell me the tolerances and i'll measure it) Sound good???? One gutted Baz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted October 6, 2007 Thats nothing, When the bearing has vanished it's bad, A crank grind will sort that out no problems at all I;ve never ordered or seen T16 bearing's, But a Alloy bearing is a Alloy bearing no matter what it's for, The heavy duty, trimetal copper-lead material is not quite so envio friendly but better, I think it's more the play on the Group 'N' which is baically standard but the price goes up because people think they are getting something allot better which in case of engine bearing's isn;t the case. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugman211 0 Posted October 6, 2007 Miles!!!!!! I love it!!!!!!! In that case, i will wizz off the crank, and probably get a set of bearings off you, so i'll PM you the details of what size etc soon!!! Many thanks! One slightly happier Baz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugman211 0 Posted October 6, 2007 if i'm gonna do the cam belt and water pump etc, will i need the locking pins???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James_m 0 Posted October 6, 2007 Is that rust on the first pic? Ive never seen bearings come out that colour..... Maybe there is water in your oil? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugman211 0 Posted October 6, 2007 Thats the colour of bearings after the top protective layer has been removed. No there was no water present in the sump, was a bit of grey looking paste/gunk, but i presumed that was metal filings off the bearings that are worn. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugman211 0 Posted October 7, 2007 Hey James, When you say refresh the engine, do you mean get the valve guides and valves re-lapped, bit of DIY porting etc???? To be honest, i'm thinking of doing all of the first post, bar the throttle bodies, 4-2-1 manifold and the big valve head. Seeing as the car is for road use only and will never see a track due to the extra weight, theres no real point in having that power right now. Certainly not in this car. Maybe in a 205!!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
