Daxed 7 Posted September 30, 2007 Could you please check my logic out on this one......... The hose from the bottom of the inlet manifold to the SAD has failed and is admitting air. Heel & toe required to keep the engine running / brake servo functioning in all off throttle situations. Whilst this has improved my heel & toe abilities, being very deaf has resulted in me stopping for pedestrian crossings or traffic lights blissfully unaware that I have more revs dialled in than my 80 year old neighbour attempting a 3 point turn. So whilst I’m sat there smiling at whoever is crossing the road, everyone within 200 yards is wondering what the prat in the old car is trying to prove. The man at Peugeot obviously got confused as to what part I required when I popped into the dealers yesterday, as the price he quoted me seemed more related to an integral and complex part of a Saturn V than a bit of tubing from a French car. So…………. If I remove the hose and block off at both the inlet manifold and SAD, will this just mean that I will need to dial in some throttle, heel & toe, only until the engine warms up? Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jim21070 2 Posted September 30, 2007 (edited) Yep, absolutely right Block off at the inlet manifold and at the piece of trunking betwee the AFM where the SAD hose connects and you've effectively bypassed the SAD completely. Just give her 5 mins to get warm and you'll be fine. Edited September 30, 2007 by jim21070 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daxed 7 Posted September 30, 2007 Brilliant jim, thanks. On my way out the door now to tackle this 10 minute job. Should therefore hopefully be finished before it gets dark. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted September 30, 2007 in theory you can just block it all off and set the hot idle speed, cold idle will be affected by the amount of cold start additional fuel going in, if will run, but rvery rich and not ideal though! waht you really want to get/make is whats fitted to early P1's, they have a metal pipe across the top of the gearbox fropm the SAD forwards and a short section of hose to the manifold, most of the rubber stuff is about 15mm internal Dia IIRC so just some plain hose from a motor factor will suffice here. and just to confirm the part numbers and prices, heres what is fitted to most cars with an SAD; Part No Part Desc price-VAT price+VAT 036235 ADDIT AIR HOSE 9.87 GBP 11.60 GBP 036245 ADDIT AIR HOSE 18.91 GBP 22.22 GBP I'll try and dig out the part number and prices for the older type, though I think they might not be available by now! you could just fit motronic... I did and its fantastic! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jim21070 2 Posted September 30, 2007 you could just fit motronic... I did and its fantastic! That has got to be a good idea Welsh What Motronic did you use? Although I have my L-Jet about as good as it'll ever be, it is still a pain compared to the Motronic on my Xantia. Daxed: I typed my reply a bit quickly whist eating breakfast sorry. I should have added that running SADless as the cooler weather rolls on will be a right PITA first-thing in the morning unless you're patient and allow it to warm up before proceeding off. I'd to everything to get it back working normally with some urgency. Bypassing is fine as a temporary expedient but not long-term. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daxed 7 Posted September 30, 2007 Just being a pain when cold will be a massive improvement on how it has been for the last couple of weeks. SAD now out of the system. Got to go for a run down to the coast this afternoon so will see how it behaves. Thanks for the advice all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daxed 7 Posted September 30, 2007 Ahhhhhh, that was the most pleasant stress free drive for weeks. welsh - incase you pop back into this most riveting topic........ Your description of the early P1 manifold/SAD connection - is it basically that most of the run is conducted in metal pipework as opposed to mine which is (was) all rubber hose? - and if so, is this a better solution? Would you also be kind enough to expand on your 'you could just fit motronic...' comment, as I don't have the first idea what you are talking about. The word 'motronic' does have a very worrying 'ring' to it though, suggesting it may be even more expensive than the crappy rubber hose that connected the twist knob under Pete Conrad’s hand to the abort tower that the bloke behind the Peugeot parts counter tried to sell me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted September 30, 2007 I was going to have a go at digging out the part numbers prices and pictures, but yes basically the section from the SAD to the inlet is metal, I think you could easily replicate it in 15mm copper pipe or similar. as for Motronic I have installed (as has Pugtorque) it still uses the SAD, but for some reason has a much better idle, rock solid even! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted September 30, 2007 Steve, I've got a couple of these hose that are still in good condition shoudl you want to refit the SAD at some point (maybe over winter). If you want one, let me know. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daxed 7 Posted October 1, 2007 Graham, Many thanks for that but think I am sorted, am meeting Anthony this evening to chat over a few issues and think he has sorted one out for me. Thanks again for the kind offer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Super Josh 4 Posted October 1, 2007 as for Motronic I have installed (as has Pugtorque) it still uses the SAD, but for some reason has a much better idle, rock solid even! That'll be Motronic MP3.1, as found on the 1.9 ZX Volcane. It still uses a SAD, but being a digital ECU it alters the ignition advance/retard to keep the idle rock steady. Uses wasted spark, so no Dizzy. Uses a MAP sensor and Throttle Pot. so no crappy AFM either. Only needs a few wires connecting to get it to work as well Only installation problems are that it uses a CAS, so you need either a late 205 flywheel, with the 60-2 timing teeth, if you want to keep the 200mm clutch. Or change to an Mi16 flywheel and install a 215mm clutch. The ECU is in the engine bay on the ZX, so if you want it in the standard 205 location then you need to extend the loom. Just make sure you use shielded cable for the CAS, and that the shield is only connected to ground at one end of the cable. Easiest way is to rob a few later Pugs of their looms and build up a suitbale one Frankenstein's Monster style. Sure Pugtorque will offer some advice too Josh Share this post Link to post Share on other sites