Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
wardy18

Webers On An 8v

Recommended Posts

wardy18

As i will fitting 45 DCOE Webers to my 8v 1900 next year and as their is already a topic of Webers of Webers on a S16 i thought it best while you guys are Weber Minded you migth be help me out at the same time

 

To be honest from the of i am a weber virgin and have no idea how to set them up and what jets are included never mind which size to use.

 

They are fairly old so im looking to get a couple of service kits and completely go throu them and give them a thourough service.

 

My plan:

 

- as the car is purely a hillclimb car, to remove the slam panel completely so i can get maximum air to the inlets, is this safe and will it affect the cars performance or safety?!?

 

- is it right what ive been told that the longer the trumpets fitted the better performance i will get so removing teh slam panel will also allow me loads of room (after attempting to lower the rad)

 

- which throttle linkage is best to use as i know there are a few different options ontop and underneath the carbs?! at the moment one is fitted but looks pretty old and bit outta shape, is it worth retaining this one and making sure both sides are working evenly when cable is pulled or get a new one, if so which one?!

 

- My biggest question is what jets should i use and which sort of different jets do i need to get, reading the other post with the webers on an S16 its sounds pretty complicated, please help?! if you need the spec of the engine just let me know

 

- what other parts do i need to generally fit them, ie Banjo T Peice, DCOE Balance Link?!

 

- Which fuel pump should i go for?! would a Facet Silver Top be too much or too little?!

 

- Do i still need to fit a regulator?! if so which one?!

 

Thanx for your help guys, i reeally wanna get going on sorting these out soon so any info is greatly appreciated

 

regards

 

Simon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
andy0075

Hi,

 

As a starting point you can use one of these jets. Maybe you already have them built in in your carbs :

 

choke : 34 or 36mm

main jets : 140, 145 or 150

air correction jets: 170,180 or 190

emulsion tube : F2 or F16

 

With this setup your car will run. Then you have to test other jet sizes and see what happens...

power increase ;) or decrease :)

 

 

In my car with 45 webers i use the original fuel pump. I only drop the preassure with a

special regulator from FSE. I mounted it betwen the original fuelfilter and the carbs.

The regulator has a fuelback connector for the original fuelbackpipe.

I has bought it on an uk-ebayshop for about 50 pounds.

 

FOR MORE INFORMATION READ THIS :

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/9526/carbs.html

 

AND HERE YOU SEE WHERE THE JETS IN THE CARBS ARE :

http://www.webcon.co.uk/weber/40dcoe.htm

 

cheers, Andy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
wardy18
Hi,

 

As a starting point you can use one of these jets. Maybe you already have them built in in your carbs :

 

choke : 34 or 36mm

main jets : 140, 145 or 150

air correction jets: 170,180 or 190

emulsion tube : F2 or F16

 

With this setup your car will run. Then you have to test other jet sizes and see what happens...

power increase ;) or decrease :)

In my car with 45 webers i use the original fuel pump. I only drop the preassure with a

special regulator from FSE. I mounted it betwen the original fuelfilter and the carbs.

The regulator has a fuelback connector for the original fuelbackpipe.

I has bought it on an uk-ebayshop for about 50 pounds.

 

FOR MORE INFORMATION READ THIS :

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/9526/carbs.html

 

AND HERE YOU SEE WHERE THE JETS IN THE CARBS ARE :

http://www.webcon.co.uk/weber/40dcoe.htm

 

cheers, Andy

 

Thanx for the quick reply mate, a great help, ill definitely have a read fo those sites, its goin to be quite hard to test different settings for me as we dont have any sort of rolling road here so its purely by testing on the day and going by what other people have tested and found to have worked.

 

Is there any advantage of using just a regulator rather than a Facet Pump?! Maybe a regulator for now while im still using the standard and then when i convert to a fuel cell inside the car ill go down the Facet Route, at least i can still use the Regulator to quage the pressure!!?!

 

will the different parts you stated above regarding the jets be easily identifyable as those settings you gave or will i have to measure anything?!

 

thanx mate

 

simon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
andy0075

FACET is maybe the better way, but my solution do the work also very well.

 

A lot of people told me that only the regulator will not work ( the pump will get damaged,

the carbs will be flooded,... ) But since my conversion a half year ago everything works fine !

These regulator from FSE is especially build for a carbs conversion ! So i think they know

what they are doing ;-)

 

The regulator is the "cheap & easy" way. I mean you have nearly no work, you can use the original

fuel pipes ( foreward and backward pipe and the fuelfilter) and the price is much lower.

 

0,5bar is the max pressure you can use for carbs. normal is 0,3bar but with my carbs i never had

problems with flooding.

 

But if you buy a new Facet pump you will also buy a 0,3bar regulator or so.....

 

JETS:

The numbers are printed on the jets/chokes.

 

I also did no rolling road test till now.

 

I started with 34mm chokes, 140main, 180air correction and F16 emulsion tube -> then testdrive on the street

I changed the mains to 145 and did another testdrive. The difference is noticeable.

Always change only one thing at the same time ! So i got my setup ( 36, 150, 180, F16).

 

Look out for someone who has such jets/chokes for trying because if you have to buy them all then it will become

a bit expensively.

 

cheers, Andy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
wardy18
FACET is maybe the better way, but my solution do the work also very well.

 

A lot of people told me that only the regulator will not work ( the pump will get damaged,

the carbs will be flooded,... ) But since my conversion a half year ago everything works fine !

These regulator from FSE is especially build for a carbs conversion ! So i think they know

what they are doing ;-)

 

The regulator is the "cheap & easy" way. I mean you have nearly no work, you can use the original

fuel pipes ( foreward and backward pipe and the fuelfilter) and the price is much lower.

 

0,5bar is the max pressure you can use for carbs. normal is 0,3bar but with my carbs i never had

problems with flooding.

 

But if you buy a new Facet pump you will also buy a 0,3bar regulator or so.....

 

JETS:

The numbers are printed on the jets/chokes.

 

I also did no rolling road test till now.

 

I started with 34mm chokes, 140main, 180air correction and F16 emulsion tube -> then testdrive on the street

I changed the mains to 145 and did another testdrive. The difference is noticeable.

Always change only one thing at the same time ! So i got my setup ( 36, 150, 180, F16).

 

Look out for someone who has such jets/chokes for trying because if you have to buy them all then it will become

a bit expensively.

 

cheers, Andy

 

ah ok i might give FSE a call and see what they say, ill speak to a few companies and see what the general idea is and go from there

 

ill try that set up u gave me first and go from there, i cant wait to get them on and test them

 

one big question thou, what happens with all the excess wiring in the engine bay, ie injector plugs and wires, connector that goes to throttle switch on throttle body etc etc?!? what do you do with all those?!?

 

tahnx

 

simon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SAMSMITH

im not sure webbers are the best choise. iv alweays been told the are over complicated and a twat to set up, always here twin SUs are good

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
danpug

My old weber setup used a single fuel pressure regulator. Rather than getting an fse just grab a fpr off ebay, alot cheaper.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
wardy18

in speaking with nick from Shenpar im going to go with a couple of regulators that he will supply along with others stuff in my 1st round shopping list, i think as thats what he has recommended ill put my trust in him and go down that route, these can be used with the original pump but then also when i do finally go for a fuel cell i can still use these regulators with a facet pump

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
taffycrook

always worth remembering that the person you seak advice from wants to sell you something. Thats his business.

I like the FSE reg with the std pump as it makes life easy. Another regulator is seldom needed as the pressure is adjustable, I use a guage in line with the carbs to keep an eye on the pressure.

A rolling road is the place to sort out trumpet lengths and jet sizes. However you may have problems with that, on the CI.

I would buy a wide band O2 reader and use that on the road to get the jets right, this will also show if the trumpet lengths are working with you.

As for cutting the slam panel you can do this but replace the strength with a bar across the top of the panels, this method of increasing air flow is best used with a lowered rad, to reduce intake temps.

 

Regards

Andy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
wardy18
always worth remembering that the person you seak advice from wants to sell you something. Thats his business.

I like the FSE reg with the std pump as it makes life easy. Another regulator is seldom needed as the pressure is adjustable, I use a guage in line with the carbs to keep an eye on the pressure.

A rolling road is the place to sort out trumpet lengths and jet sizes. However you may have problems with that, on the CI.

I would buy a wide band O2 reader and use that on the road to get the jets right, this will also show if the trumpet lengths are working with you.

As for cutting the slam panel you can do this but replace the strength with a bar across the top of the panels, this method of increasing air flow is best used with a lowered rad, to reduce intake temps.

 

Regards

Andy

 

yeh ive been looking into those CO Meter and would like to get one fitted, do they simply show the Stoich readings so you can tell how rich or lean it is?! how does that help with the trumpet size?! where is best to source one of these kits?!

 

i really do wish i had a rolling over here but ill have to make do for next season, next winter im going for a BV head etc so will take the car to the UK and leave it with whoever i choose to go with and they can do teh work and set it all up for me aswel

 

yeh i have one of those FSE Presure gauges that screw into the regulator so that will be handy when i fit the FSE Regulator, im pretty sure that ths regulators supplied by Shenpar are FSE as thats whats shown on their website

 

 

Yeh i will definitely get a strenthening bar set in to replace some of the strength the slam panel provided, is it an easy job to lower the rad?!?

 

best regards

 

Simon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest dans93

Hi there sorry to add to post but i'm in the same boat. I wish to convert my 1.9 to 40's. I have just bought a nice set jetted 40's for a 1.9 complete with new linkage. I do have a few questions though.............

 

Apart from manifolds, and filters what else do i need? Looking at what others have done for now i'd go with th standard fuel pump and use an FSE reg and inline gauge. Firstly where can i get them from???

 

I'm reasonably handy and have bolted a set of carbs on before but never taken an injection system off. I really need to know what to do with electrics , ignition , spare wires and hosing thats been disconnected.

 

Would ideally like to get everything together , do my homework and hopefully some nice person could give me/point me in the direction of an "idiots guide to fitting 40's to a 1.9 205".

 

Sorry again to jump in but have been advised to search first

 

Cheers Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
wardy18
Hi there sorry to add to post but i'm in the same boat. I wish to convert my 1.9 to 40's. I have just bought a nice set jetted 40's for a 1.9 complete with new linkage. I do have a few questions though.............

 

Apart from manifolds, and filters what else do i need? Looking at what others have done for now i'd go with th standard fuel pump and use an FSE reg and inline gauge. Firstly where can i get them from???

 

I'm reasonably handy and have bolted a set of carbs on before but never taken an injection system off. I really need to know what to do with electrics , ignition , spare wires and hosing thats been disconnected.

 

Would ideally like to get everything together , do my homework and hopefully some nice person could give me/point me in the direction of an "idiots guide to fitting 40's to a 1.9 205".

 

Sorry again to jump in but have been advised to search first

 

Cheers Dan

 

from what ive been told mate a set of FSE Regulators will do the job just fine, i'm sourcing mind from Nick at Shenpar Motorsport but many others also supply these

 

with regards to the wiring it depends how confident you are that u will never revert back to injection on that car, all witing for the injectors can either be bundled together and tucked away or they can be sourced right back to the roots and cut away (so ive been told) the ecu can also be removed (so ive also been told)

 

i do need to get a bit more clarity on exactly what else can be removed thou

 

good luck, let me know how u get on as i am still in the info gathering stage also

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest dans93

Hopefully some clever sole can help eh :rolleyes: Has anyone any decent under bonnet pics of 40's fitted. Interested to how folk have done their lines , mounted regs etc

 

Regards Dan

Edited by dans93

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shine

Here is a pic of 45's. Same look a as if you fit 40's.

 

Motorrom-aug-07.jpg

 

I use a Holley Blue pump (low press) mounted in the place fuelfilter normaly located. From my pump there is a line to the Holley pres. regulator, and then 2 lines out(one to each carb), or use a T split if regulator only has one out. I have pres. set at 4 to 5 psi. I the tank I just took out the inj pump and fittes a 8mm pipe instead of pump.

 

I just removed whole inj loom, and everything worked fine.

 

Not complicated at all.

 

Espen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest dans93

Next time before you post can you clean your motor a little please . looks a right mess :unsure:

 

Thanks for the advise and pics

 

Sorry again to butt in the post but hopefully between us we can figure things out

 

Cheers Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
wardy18

mate im soo jealous, that looks an awesome engine bay

 

do you have more slightly clearer pics as its hard to make out some parts

 

i love that strengthenin brace

 

my plan for an intake is to lower the rad as low as i can and then remove the front grill so the air filters can breath beautifully, and then when i get a bit more experienced with alloy or fibreglass ill make a large intake box which will bolt onto the carbs and fill the gap where the grill used to be so to direct the air straight in to the filters

 

gotta make teh most of what you have and so cant be breathin hot air from the engine!!

 

i wanna invest in a radtec short rad but thats like 320 quid!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
oliver17491

yea i remember seeing that car in pug performace some months ago its very clean.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

×