Pugnut 9 1 Cars Posted August 16, 2007 Hi, i've got 7 feet of 38mm cds which i bought weld in for harness bars . I'm looking for some advice on the correct fitment into the roll cage . its an SD cage which has allready been modified , so altering further isn't an issue . i would just like to fit them so they are safe . i've done a quick drawing: A = what i have at the moment B = what i've seen. is this how it should be done? C = is this ok? its all i have enough steel for or alternatively i can do the x brace in cds and i could do the horizontal for the harnesses in some other more readily avaliable steel? can it be fixed to the back of the frame or does it have to profiled into the cage as with the rest of it? cheers, Al Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WildCards 0 Posted August 17, 2007 'C' will be safe enough, i've seen alot of people with both 'B' and 'C'. I've got 'A' and the harnesses fix into eyelit bolts in the floor. Personally i'd profile it, it looks better, neater and more professional and I'd guess it's stonger too. it's not difficult to do, I added some door bars (with help) and it only took about 30 minutes to profile them both in and weld them nicely. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chownr 0 Posted August 17, 2007 Ive got B on my challenge spec SD cage and ive seen this style most commonly. But Ive also seen a few of C but profiled to the cage rather than just welded onto the face. I guess it depends what you are intending to use the cage for - If you have to satsify a scrutineer Id do the best job I could. If its just for track days then maybe you can lower expectations a little but at teh end of the day a cage is a safety item therefore personally I wouldnts crimp on anything Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPGTi 2 Posted August 17, 2007 I am having the same done to my rollcentre cage. I am going for B and all profiled so that it looks "factory". I was advised this as all produced cages that have harness bars are in this configuration (please don't reply with ones that aren't as I am just stating what I was told). Also in a roll over situation, more strength is added to this section of the cage with the double cross, so there is less chance of the harness mounting being effected. Steve Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom_m 0 Posted August 17, 2007 thats how CC did mine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Thomson 6 Posted August 17, 2007 Mine's a "C". Never had any problems at scrutineering etc, but it is done properly with shaped tubes etc. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pugnut 9 1 Cars Posted August 18, 2007 thanks chaps , i think c looks best and is more symmetrical. having a look again i see the rear diagonal doesnt line up with the two vertical diagonals. this would make C look odd . i'm just going to have to get ripped off again buying another metre of 38mm tube off ebay to do B. any tips of profiling ? i've had an idea about rolling some cardboard round the existing tubes to copy the profile, then transfer that onto the new bars. any better tips? cheers, Al Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted August 18, 2007 Profile gauge going to be any use in this situation for you Al ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
philfingers 5 Posted August 24, 2007 You could try getting the lot in Banchory (Waldon I think, they do Nova's, if they're still there) to do it for you. Could use old toilet roll tubes as a pattern! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Richie-Van-GTi 73 2 Cars Posted August 26, 2007 buy some cheap platic piping and a hole cutter the same diameter as the roll cage, use it to make a plastic piece that fits snug then take it to any fabricator and get a section pre made. Usually cheaper than buying a full length. Shame your not nearer to me, I have 6 meters of stainless tube in the garage which would be just right for a cage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
