Removing Both Ends Of Torsion Bar

[DaveK 0]

In the middle of a refurb and its going pretty well, but I cant for the life of me get the last end of the torsion bar out, the end with the offset washer and screw.

 

Does it actually have to be removed? The only problem i forsee is having to adjust the ride height when its on the car, is there any way around that?

 

Id try and set it up off the car (not got a clue how to do that yet but will look into it) but is this gonna a pig if one torsion bar cant be removed?

 

Then again, maybe im just being a wimp and ill get the blow torch on it and try bashing again

 

Cheers, Dave

[Jrod 7]

If you don't remove it you will only be able to lower it at about 30mm at a time by inserting the other end in after turning it.

 

What are you having trouble with, just getting the washer to move? Make sure you clean the groove out really well etc and it should free up.

[DaveK 0]

ive got the washer out just the actual bar end itself, pretty seized

[Jrod 7]

Ah right.

 

If you takethe whole trailing arm off with the torsion bar still in it you should be able to hit it out from the other end?

[welshpug 1,657]

hit it one way then the other, it will evenually come out, got any penetrating oil (graphite stuff is best)

 

or try some heat, but not on the torsion bar, then spray the end of the torsion bar with WD40 to cool it off quickly and smack it.

[sonofsam 5]

The idea of using heat is to make things expand (ie- the torsion bar housing) So IMO it's best to smack it while it's hot.

As it cools down it will contract again!

[DaveK 0]

tried the blow torch approach but didnt try hitting it the other way, that wil work im sure

 

cheers, chaps

[welshpug 1,657]

hitting it one way then the other usually does it, basically theres a ring of corrosion on each side, each time you hit it it gets wedged up on it, hit it the other way then back and it goes further.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

On the torsion bars I've had that were nicely seized into the rdius arms I put a protective M8 bolt into the opposite end of the bar & with the radius arm end on a solid floor hit the torsion bar free from that end.

 

Graham.

[jonnie205 1]

you only need to free torsion bar from arm if you plan to change the ride height a small amount. Sometimes you can get away with hitting them out but be very carefull as it is easy to damage splines or thred. If it wont come out with a few hits then you will need to press it out. Usually takes about 1 ton to shift a seized bar

[DaveK 0]

ive got them both out now, very slightly damaged the splines but a little file and it all slides in nicely now.

 

Got a quick question about setting the height. Im gonna make a dummy shock and set distance between the holes at 305mm.

Can i just assemble the entire beam off the car (torsion bars, arb etc) then just lift it on and it will be fine?

 

Cheers, Dave

[DaveK 0]

oh im using 19mm torsion bars so 305mm should be alright yeah? 309 beam btw

[welshpug 1,657]

yep, should be spot on

 

might be a bit low at 305mm but as its a fresh rebuild it wont take long at all to adjust it.

 

I know its a 309 but this is what it looked like at 305mm;

 

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f169/wel.../PICT0240-1.jpg

 

and re-set to 330mm;

 

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f169/wel...od/PICT0298.jpg

 

difference is accentuated by the 45mm or so drop at the fron which although it looks ok is just too damned low!

Edited July 30, 2007 by pugtorque
image file sizes, 120k max please.

[DaveK 0]

superb, ill go for 315mm then, cheers!

[DaveK 0]

Well got it finished off, wasnt as bad a job as i was thinking it was gonna be, apart from the stubborn TB end

 

 

My painting sucks, i get bored with it soooo quicky lol

[welshpug 1,657]

me too! did mine in silver and black, and you can see the brush strokes on side of the tube but not the other

 

did you remember to set the clearance to the trailing arm shaft seals?

[DaveK 0]

eh???? lol

[welshpug 1,657]

screw the shouldered stud in fully (with opposite end of TB secured)

 

place a 0.05mm feeler blade between cup and arm shaft seal and strike the end of the shaft with a mallet as shown here

 

 

then unscrew the shouldered stud until it contacts the cup lightly, then lock it in place with the 13mm nut like this

 

 

failure to do this will wither lead to water getting in past the seal, or the seal wearing out quickly and lettign water in.

[DaveK 0]

ah rite ok, nah i didnt do that, ill do that tomorrow night then

 

Cheers!

[DaveK 0]

how long do rebuilt beams normally last on a road car? 5 years or so?

[Alastairh 47]

how long do rebuilt beams normally last on a road car? 5 years or so?

 

Well as long as they've lasted up unitl now, so upto 10 years really.

 

I know Anthony suggests checking the bearings after 5 years

[DaveK 0]

superb! thats good news lol

[snillet 1]

yep, should be spot on

 

might be a bit low at 305mm but as its a fresh rebuild it wont take long at all to adjust it.

 

I know its a 309 but this is what it looked like at 305mm;

 

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f169/wel.../PICT0240-1.jpg

 

and re-set to 330mm;

 

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f169/wel...od/PICT0298.jpg

 

difference is accentuated by the 45mm or so drop at the fron which although it looks ok is just too damned low!

 

What size of wheels/tires on the car in those pics ?, just want a reference to my own.

[welshpug 1,657]

16" nimrods with 195 45 tyres IIRC.

 

not the best of pics but here it is on 195 50 15" the day I collected it, (the beam was shot, but at 305mm)

 

 

whoops!!

 

Edited July 31, 2007 by welshpug