Craigb 2 Posted July 25, 2007 I finally had a crack at dismantling a rear beam last night, following Wurzels excellent how to guide. The anti roll bar came out with no problems , the offset washers and retaining screw for the torsion bars offered very little resistance but when I moved on to the trailing arms that was a different story. I had nothing to hook one end to whilst I tapped out the trailing arms, so the cherry tree at the bottom of our garden was pressed into service. The first arm started to move with the first couple of blows but it took some fairly heavy persuasion to get it fully out. The second arm was the tough one, so much so that the arm came away from the arm shaft, leaving the shaft in the rear beam body. Bugger. Looking at the end where the arm did come out though reveals that I was wasting my time anyway, the bearing surfaces in the beam are shot, so I now have a pile of bits that are not much good. Back to the drawing board I think!! At least I know how the thing goes together.. I have one further problem though . The base of the cherry tree is Sh***ed , I just hope my wife doesnt suspect anything when I offer to cut the grass for the rest of the year Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bren_1.3 1 Posted July 25, 2007 i find it much easier to undo the 13mm nut at the opposite ends of the trailing arms, and then bash the torsion bar and arm out as one. did you bash the arm off away from the torsion bar? i find them almost solid when i try that method of blasting the arms off the torsion bars, rather than blasting the arm and bar off as a complete unit away from the beam itself. you should see my back garden wall ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ashley peddle 3 Posted July 25, 2007 I have one further problem though .The base of the cherry tree is Sh***ed , I just hope my wife doesnt suspect anything when I offer to cut the grass for the rest of the year sorry but that comment made the water-melon i was eating come out my nose... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Craigb 2 Posted July 25, 2007 (edited) i find it much easier to undo the 13mm nut at the opposite ends of the trailing arms, and then bash the torsion bar and arm out as one.did you bash the arm off away from the torsion bar? i find them almost solid when i try that method of blasting the arms off the torsion bars, rather than blasting the arm and bar off as a complete unit away from the beam itself. you should see my back garden wall ! They way you describe it is the way i did it , the torsion bars came out with the arms . Only one of the arms left the trailing arm shaft in the main Beam . Ashley , apologies for your melon issue , not a pleasant thought Edited July 25, 2007 by Craigb Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted July 25, 2007 Only one of the arms left the trailing arm shaft in the main Beam . I assume the beam was siezed on that side? The amount of force required to remove the arm from the shaft is about 6 tons or so, and hence that shaft was pretty well rusted in there to not come out... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taylorspug 7 Posted July 25, 2007 (edited) They way you describe it is the way i did it , the torsion bars came out with the arms . Only one of the arms left the trailing arm shaft in the main Beam . Ashley , apologies for your melon issue , not a pleasant thought For what its worth, you can get seized shafts out of the tube. You need a large vice and a big hammer! Get the shaft clamped in the vice and then use the metal frame that holds the rear beam mounts as leverage to twist the tube off of the shaft. You will need to hit it bloody hard, and it may be wise to get some WD in behind the shaft from the other end. TBH though its a largely pointless excercise (I only attempted it as i was in a mood and wanted to smack the crap out of something), as the tube and arms sound completely shot. Best thing you can do is get a good base model tube and set of arms from the scrappy, renew the bearings and build all the GTI bits (tbs, arb, hubs etc) onto it. By the sounds of things you should have a MUCH better handling car by the end of it, if thats the condition of the beam that has been on it! Edited July 25, 2007 by taylorspug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Craigb 2 Posted July 26, 2007 I assume the beam was siezed on that side? The amount of force required to remove the arm from the shaft is about 6 tons or so, and hence that shaft was pretty well rusted in there to not come out... Seized solid , but even so six tonnes , i didn't know i had a six tonne hammer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Craigb 2 Posted July 26, 2007 By the sounds of things you should have a MUCH better handling car by the end of it, if thats the condition of the beam that has been on it! This hadn't been on the car , i bought it as a replacement to have built up ready top go on the car if required. So i am on the look out for a different one that is not quite as siezed !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted July 26, 2007 I've had arm shafts out with 3.5 tonnes, so its not inconcieveable that you can hit the arm off if the shaft is well seized to the bearings. It wont be imposible to remove the shaft though, and the bearing locating surfaces should be find if they havent collapsed (which happens after they seize....) but I do agree its far easier to find another tube! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
