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DanS1982

Started To Lowering The Rear Beam.....

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DanS1982

All is going well before the rain come down last night so had to down tools, but I have a few questions...........

 

On the end of each torsion bar there is a 13mm nut & a flat head screw. When un-done as per the instructions they both become very lose but do not come out of the torsion bar. Is this correct?

 

Also does the anti-roll bar in the beam have to be removed? The instructions are not too clear on this point?

 

Cheers,

Dan

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welshpug

the nut should come off, the shouldered stud wont as theres a cap on the end of the hole which the stud passes through.

 

you dont have to remove the ARB to just lower it, though you still need o unbolt is from both trailing arms and turn it out of the way.

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Richie-Van-GTi

remove the 13mm nut and leave the screw part as it is, opposite end remove the toirx head bolt and the eccentric washer. From here the torsion bars can be withdrawn and the new ride height set. The arb does not have to be moved at all, only the end plate needs turning slightly one side to gain access to one of the torsion bar ends.

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DanS1982
remove the 13mm nut and leave the screw part as it is, opposite end remove the toirx head bolt and the eccentric washer. From here the torsion bars can be withdrawn and the new ride height set. The arb does not have to be moved at all, only the end plate needs turning slightly one side to gain access to one of the torsion bar ends.

 

So the torsion bars have be me withdrawn completely then re-fitted to adjust the ride height? This cannot be done with the torsion bar in situe? - again not clear on the article on the site.

 

Thanks for your help!

 

Dan

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maturin23

The torsion bars have splines on each end, they only need to be withdrawn an inch or so.

 

As already mentioned you need to take the nut off one end and the torx screw and washer off the other.

 

Set the ride height with the dummy shock, twist the bar until it slides easily back into place.

 

It's one of those jobs that becomes obvious as you do it

Edited by maturin23

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DanS1982

From the article on this site

 

Look under the car and you will see the two torsion bars. One in front of the axle and the other behind. The relevant torsion bar is inserted into the radius arm you are working on. Now proceed round to the other side of the car, trace the torsion bar for the radius arm you are working and you will see that it inserts into a fixed casting on the axle. Sticking out the other side of the casting you will see a threaded stud with a screwdriver slot in it and a 13mm locking nut at its base. This is screwed into the torsion bar. Spray the locking nut and threaded stud with a lubricant (WD40) and undo the 13mm locking nut (Carefully). Then unscrew the threaded stud using a suitable screwdriver until considerable resistance is felt (The stud may be fairly hard to undo take care not to round out the slot cut in the end).

 

8. As soon as the threaded stud is undone the radius arm is free to be moved off of the end of the axle enough to allow adjustment of the torsion bar. However it is important to mark the torsion bar where it enters the casting

 

Is is missing out somthing because it only mensions unscrewing one side of the torsion bar??

 

I'm confused lol

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Jrod

The guide on the main site is very s*it.

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welshpug

and even that one is naff!

 

there is one on club-306 that shows everything, but IIRC you have to register to see it.

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DanS1982

Rah Rah Rah!

 

Managed to lower one side last night and the other is all off ready to do tonight.

 

Thanks for the help guys!

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Jrod
and even that one is naff!

 

there is one on club-306 that shows everything, but IIRC you have to register to see it.

 

 

What's naff about it?

 

Measuring from the arch isn't ideal as a dummy shock is much better but i don't think it's a bad starting point.

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johnnyboy666

the guide on refurbing beams on the main site is pretty good imo, it definately helps to teach you whats what :)

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