Foltan 0 Posted July 11, 2007 Hi, ive got the old 'box off my 1.4 TU but my friend and i cant for the life of us get the new one lined up!! And before you ask, it is the right gearbox! One problem we have is that the drivers' drivershaft has to be kind of poked into the hole on the gearbox before getting the input shaft in because it sticks out so far. is this right? or is there a way i can move the driveshaft further out so that i can fit it after locating the gearbox? Its getting rather exhausting! thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
All Praise The GTI 3 Posted July 11, 2007 is the clutch alligned properly? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trogboy 17 Posted July 11, 2007 I've always totally removed the drivers side shaft when doing the gearbox as you have to be bang on with aligning it or it just won't go back in. I'd imaging it would be extremely difficult to slide the box onto the driveshaft. Failing that I'd say clutch alignment as above. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DaveK 0 Posted July 11, 2007 yeah i agree, remove the shaft, will make it much easier. are you putting a trolley jack under the box to take the weight? makes it easier to line up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alastairh 47 Posted July 11, 2007 Clutch alignment. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
28CRAIG 2 Posted July 11, 2007 Also turn the engine by hand with a few people holding gear box helps it go in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brianthemagical 1 Posted July 11, 2007 is the engine hanging down a bit on the other two mounts? when i did mine (be3), me and my brothe spent ages trying to align it with jacks and briacks, and i realined the clutch, then dropped the engine a bit and it went straight on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted July 12, 2007 I've only ever done one gearbox with the driveshaft still fitted (Clifton's on here) & the amount of time it took to work around it means I would always advise removing both driveshafts before you start the job. The only other reason it could be getting held away is if the teeth on the box & clutch plate are out of alignement imo. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foltan 0 Posted July 13, 2007 thanks for all your replies! what exactly do you mean by clutch alignment? is it simply the alignment of the splines of the input shaft and the engine or something else? because i havent done anything to the clutch because it was only the gearbox that i was changing. also, how much of a hassle is removing the driveshaft? is it likely to go wrong and wind me up more?! thanks again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted July 13, 2007 Aaah, if the clutch was allready fitted then it "should" be algned correctly (the end of the crankshaft has a spigot hole for the gearbox input shaft, if the friction plate of the clutch is misaligned you'll never get the input shaft to locate fully) I assume its a TU with an intermediate bearing? if it is its exactly like doing an XU, remove driveshaft nut, unbolt lower pinch bolt and withdraw balljoint from hub, pull hub outwards to remove it from the shaft. loosen the two L shaped bolts on the rear engine mounting/intermediate bearing housing, and pull shaft outwards (usually need a little persuasion on the inner end) DONT pull too hard on the outer shaft or you will split the gaiter and spill needle bearings everywhere.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alastairh 47 Posted July 13, 2007 I've only ever done one gearbox with the driveshaft still fitted (Clifton's on here) & the amount of time it took to work around it means I would always advise removing both driveshafts before you start the job. The only other reason it could be getting held away is if the teeth on the box & clutch plate are out of alignement imo. Graham. Totally agree. Done a couple of ma boxes with the shafts in, and really not worth the agro Despite you haven't touched the clutch, you can still knock it out of alignment, because when attempting to refit, the weight of the box running on the shaft soon moves the clutch. You need to be careful you don't damage the teeth on the friction plate. Tip to everyone. If you have a spare gear box thats dead, Cut the imput shaft off, and use that as an alignment tool, and you can't go wrong. But basically, get a torch and look straight down the hole where the shaft would go, and check its all clean and smooth, and centralised. 1mm will make it stop. Alastair Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foltan 0 Posted July 13, 2007 excellent, i shall try all these suggestions and let you know how it goes!! haha Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grim.Badger 15 Posted July 13, 2007 if it is its exactly like doing an XU, remove driveshaft nut, unbolt lower pinch bolt and withdraw balljoint from hub, pull hub outwards to remove it from the shaft.loosen the two L shaped bolts on the rear engine mounting/intermediate bearing housing, and pull shaft outwards (usually need a little persuasion on the inner end) DONT pull too hard on the outer shaft or you will split the gaiter and spill needle bearings everywhere.... Or as I did it; support the engine (with a spare wheel for example) and remove the rear engine mount and unbolt the intermediate bearing housing from the engine; you can then swing the driveshaft out of the way Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
