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mikey_p

Stub Axle, Or Hub Nut, Or Whatever Else You Call It.

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mikey_p

I'm currently swapping bits from my rusty old 1.9 rear beam onto a nice refurbed 1.6 rear beam and I need to swap over the stub axle?

 

To me it looks like an 11mm allen key will do it, which i have spent nearly a day trying to locate a shop that even knows they exist. However having now got it the barsteward doesn't seem to fit.

 

Just so you all know what I am talking about below is a picture of what I am trying to remove. The 1.6 rear beam has the stub axle in it, but I have read it's 15mm shorter then a 1.9 stub axle? Apparently it doesn't make a difference so should I just push the hubs of my old beam and push them onto the new beam (if that if how you do it, i don't have a clue how it is all assembled.

 

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i102/azo...er/IMG_2321.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i102/azo...er/IMG_2320.jpg

 

Any information on this would be greatfully appreciated as I have to try and get my car back on 4 wheels and out of the garage by friday afternoon.

 

Cheers,

Mike

 

edit=pugtorque. Image file sizes, 120k max please.

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chownr

Mike

If I understand right you are changing your tired 1.9 beam for a refurbed 1.6 beam and you need to change over the brake setup from drums to discs. The easiest way is to press the trailing arm shafts out of your old beam and swap them with the shafts for the newly refurbisjed beam.

 

Alternatively you can change over the hub assemblies. If you do this its long winded and yes you do have to change over the stub axles. You need to undo the hub nut and then drive them out with a large hammer or press them out with a press taking care not to damage the threads in the process. You then take off the back plates (four allen key bolts) to release the hub assemblies.

 

The large Allen Key is a bit of a red herring - its only really there to rotate the stub axle with the splines inside the trailing arm.

 

best of luck

 

Rich

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Jrod

You don't need anything to go in the back of there. (well I didn't)

 

Just undo the nut a bit and hammer it and the stub axle should start to move, be careful not to damage the threads though, people said to use a copper hammer but I did it fine without.

 

To get it back in you need to hammer it in with a drift and then torque it up slightly higher than standard then back it off again.

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Jrod

Here is what I was told:

 

Torque the rear hubnut to an intial torque of 220lbft & then using a suitable drift make sure that the stub axle is driven fully home in the radius arm. Slacken off the hubnut & re-torque to 180lbft & peen over the nut.

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mikey_p

Cheers for the prompt replies. Chownr you right, I am replacing my old and very rusty 1.9 rear beam for a refurbished 1.6 rear beam, and swapping over the brake assemblies.

 

I don't think I will swap the trailing arms over as I spent a long time yesterday hammering the hell out of it, and moved it a few mm. The ones on the new beam have also been sand blasted and painted so look nicer. lol.

 

So let me get this straight, I do not need to un-screw the hub nut from the back. Instead, using a hammer I hit the hub nut out from the back, and this will push the hub out. I can then un-bolt the hub carriers, re-bolt them to the new beam and hammer the hub nut back in by hitting the front of the hub (is this strong enough to take a beating).

 

What I don't understand is this undoing of the hub nut a bit before hammering it out. Do I undo that from the back using the 11mm allen key I bought (and is it actually 11mm, as it appears not to fit, but this could just be a bit of rust blocking it)?

 

Thanks again

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Jrod

Undo the actual nut at the front so the stub axle can move out the back, if not when you hit it it will just be hitting the nut and won't move.

 

When hitting the stub axle into the new beam hit the back of the stub axle.

 

I didn't have to touch that hole in the back.

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mikey_p

Right. I've found the problem, i'm a complete numpty. I thought it was odd that I couldn't see a hub nut when I took the rear wheels off, as there is just a metal plate. So I had assumed I needed to undo the stub axle from the back.

 

However I have now realised the metal plate can be removed (somehow) and I assume a hub nut will be sitting there waiting for me.

 

So now the next question, how the hell do I remove that metal plate? I can't get an leverage onto the very small edges the cap has.

 

I wished I had posted here earlier, i've wasted ages trying to find an allen key to fit the back of the stub axle. I blame the french :).

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mikey_p

Ignore my last post. I have taken the metal plates of, with thanks to a pair of pliers.

 

It looks like I am going to have to take a trip to Halfrauds as the biggest socket I have is 32mm which seems to be to small for the hub nut. Does anyone know the exact size?

 

Also as I am fairly lazy, if I can get away with changing over the hub carriers and hubs, but leaving the 1.6 stub axle on the new rear beam I will probably do that. Would that be OK? In an old topic someone said it wasn't a problem for them, but if it is dangerous I will swap over the stub axle as well.

 

Many thanks

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Jrod

I'd just swap the stub axle.

 

I was told you won't get the hub off without wrecking the bearings unless you take the stub axle out anways, not sure if this is true though.

 

It is 32mm on mine... :)

Edited by Jrod

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mikey_p

Well i've managed to get the hub nut off. And I think I have mashed the thread on the inside of the nut, and dented it inwards where there is that cut out on the thread of the stub axle. Bollocks. Ever so slightly annoyed now and not really sure what to do as there is no garages around with a big enough press.

I REALLY WANT MY CAR BACK lol

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Jrod

:)

How did you do that? hitting it with a hammer?

 

As long as it was on most threads it should of been fine.

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mikey_p

The end of the nut was flush with the end of the stub axle, although the end of the nut is not 32mm wide, it tapers down for some reason so where it is flush with the stub axle there is only a few mm of the nut that you are hitting. A friend is going to have a look tomorrow as I'm completely stuck now so not sure what to do next. Looks like I won't have my car out of the garage for Friday though.

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brianthemagical

the hubs on the 1.9 beam will come off fairly easily, mine went back on and is still going strong, just remeber to keep all the balls. i think the hub will have to be removed to get the stub axle out. there is no hub carrier as such, it is the stub axle. the drum on the 1.6 should come off fairly easily. the backplate of the drum brake will need to be removed, probably 4 bolts and then the caliper carrier of the 1.9 beam will need to be swapped over.

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mikey_p

Cheers. It's all been done now. I did it by hitting off the hubs, undoing the hub (or caliper) carrier, using that to hit of the inner bearing cup. Then I could get the stub axles off easily.

 

It all went back onto the other beam fairly easily too.

 

And as a tip, using a standard looking jack (the tubular ones with a pin to set the height) with the adjustable pole removed is the perfect size to fit over the stub axle to hit the bearing cups back on.

 

Thanks for all the advise though, it was very helpful.

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