Wes 86 1 Cars Posted July 8, 2007 i have just redone my sump gasket for the 2nd time in 6 months. but i went out for a run and its still leaking. what am i doing wrong? it an mi16 with the spacer plate. the first time i just used gasket in a tube on both the plate and the sump, this time i used gasket in a tube on just the spacer to block then a proper material gasket on spacer to sump. what has everyone else done as im fed up with smelling burnt oil on the exhaust. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Exile 0 Posted July 8, 2007 (edited) Isn't the sump crooked or sth? Check it, because it's very common 'malfunction' Edited July 8, 2007 by Exile Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamirGTI 342 Posted July 8, 2007 Hi ! Well , i had same problems with sump leaking until i discover - the clear window/bath silicone sealant ! I'm not joking seriously try that , it works for me (search for Pumarace posts about this subject..) Apply the sealant first on the sump surface (not too much of sealant) then fit the gasket (you can do this without the gasket if you wish..) then apply the sealant one more time on the gasket surface all the way around (now a bit more of sealant - ticker) , fit the sump on the block and lightly tight all bolts (start from the middle and go sideways) wait 2 hours then retight the bolts fully (20Nm) (it's wise to reseal the sump spacer also when you do that ) cheers Damir Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Exile 0 Posted July 8, 2007 (edited) You didn't try that? Don't use that kind of sealant -use engine-type. Normal is good up to 80* (or sth), but engine-type can handle over 300* Edited July 8, 2007 by Exile Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tidypug 5 2 Cars Posted July 8, 2007 Were abouts is it leaking from? I thought my sump was leaking too but eventually figured out it was the 2 rubber strips that go in between the main bearing at the gearbox end. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamirGTI 342 Posted July 8, 2007 (edited) You didn't try that? Don't use that kind of sealant -use engine-type. Normal is good up to 80* (or sth), but engine-type can handle over 300* Yes i did ! No seriously , it dosn't leak any more since then and not for very long time now see this : http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...559&hl=sump (i didn't belive in that either but i was desperate ! ) Damir EDIT : this also - http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...&hl=pissing strange but this works ! Edited July 8, 2007 by DamirGTI Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Exile 0 Posted July 8, 2007 Yes i did ! I asked wes205mi about it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wes 86 1 Cars Posted July 8, 2007 i used proper wurth engine sealant. i suppose il have to try it again and just hope it seals. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dj_mini 7 Posted July 8, 2007 Make sure you wipe both surfaces with somthing like thiners or petrol just to degrease it never had a problem doing them that way with liquid gasket. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars Posted July 9, 2007 I had a right old saga a few years back doing this on my 405, and it was made even more of a bitch of a job due to the aircon compressor being bolted to the sump. Even a garage failed to sort it. I found that rubbing down all surfaces with that fine wet 'n' dry paper helped alot. Got the surfaces really really shiney, almost like a mirror. Oh and I let the sealant start to dry before I bolted everything on, otherwise as soon as I did the bolts up the sealant would be squeezed out away from the surfaces. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grim.Badger 15 Posted July 9, 2007 Loctite make a clear and colourless sealant that smells of vinegar, it seems to work well, or at least it hasn't leaked when I have used it. I still have a little left if you want the product number. But to re-iterate make sure the surfaces are well and truly free of oil; I use WD40 on a cloth to clean off the old sealant and oil, and then let the WD40 evaporate before applying sealant. An OE gasket may work better if you haven't already tried one. Is the sump steel/tin or alloy? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ashley peddle 3 Posted July 9, 2007 im about to try my 205... 4th time the sump has been redone in 2 weeks if not im gona be taking some hints from this thread! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StuF215 1 1 Cars Posted July 10, 2007 This would happen to me, forever having a leaky sump! I now always use 2 gaskets, one between spacer and sump then the other between spacer and block. And use engine gasket sealer on both sides of each gasket. Let the sealer go of a little then bolt it all back on then leave it for at least 12 hours before I put oil in and run the engine. You don't need to do the bolts up that tight either, over tightening them will disperse the sealer. If it hasnt gone off a little before then it may end up im your oil. Never had any problems since then. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted July 12, 2007 This would happen to me, forever having a leaky sump! I now always use 2 gaskets, one between spacer and sump then the other between spacer and block. There shouldn't be a gasket between the spacer & the block, all it should have is decent high temp sealant between them & a gasket between the spacer & sump. Sometimes the alloy spacer can get distorted if its removed which means it'll never seal again no matter how much sealant you use. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars Posted July 12, 2007 How about cutting the centre bar out of the stiffler plate and welding the plate to the sump? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted July 12, 2007 Bah it's not a pug if it doesn't have a leaky sump But yeah I had the same problem, and when I upgraded my Mi back in June I took the engine out and spent about 3 hours refitting the sump and plate. Much easier with it out. I took some extremely fine wet and dry and sanded down all the surfaces and made sure it was 100% oil free. Fitted the sump spacer plate with Wynn's gasket maker (which on other parts of the engine has been faultless) and then used silicone bath sealant for the sump gasket, only using a 2mm bead all the way round, allowing it to part cure for about 15 mins then fitted the sump and then just nipped the bolts up, waited another 2 hours and then tightened them all a bit further. If you tighten the bolts by going round and tightening every other bolt a quarter turn and moving onto the next but one you will get a much more even fitting. If you lean on one then do the next one fully tight it wont evenly tighten across the whole gasket surface. It took a fair while going round and round tightening but it did make a much much better seal. After about 1500 miles driving now though it has started to leak slightly from 2 spots and it's getting that lovely pug hot oil smell while driving again now Im wondering if the spacer plate isn't slightly distorted. Best way would be to take it to an engineering firm who have a big granite table and see if they can do a few height checks on a height master, if it's out they might be able to give it a light skim on a surface grinder, wish I'd thought of that before I put it all back on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
