[trackday_prep] Project 150

[wicked 103 3 Cars]

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com indeed candy shop for electric stuff..

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

A quick progress update.

 

For the cams, I've decided on a CatCam 803 profile. The cost of an ECU that would run the VVT on this engine was just silly, so I went with the more 'economical' option of a VVT delete profile. However, an inlet cam with some vernier pullies still comes in at over £500. Big shout out to Julian at Balance Motorsport (Veloce200 on this forum) for the cam deal.

 

Any reason you didn't go for the '804s?

 

I've found there is a bit of info on these engines but on french forums, forum-206s16.com and rally-forez.com. Just have to decipher the Google translation!

[RossD 44]

Mainly because I didn't want a cam too wild for the rest of the engine spec, just wanted to keep it relatively mild, Its essentially a standard engine and from some of the videos I've seen, the 804's seem quite lumpy and not very tractable lower down.

I don't think this engine needs a lot of cam, its essentially standard spec for the moment!

 

I'll post a big update in the next couple of days with pictures etc - It's mainly done now, just minor things like a clutch cable to sort out. The engine has run (successfully!) for the first time in the car as well so all good!

 

Interestingly I didn't experience any of the exhaust problems using the Satchel engine mount, it all lines up perfectly with the nice GTI180 tubular manifold.

Edited August 23, 2016 by RossD

[RossD 44]

Well, a long overdue update is now required!

 

At the end of the last update, the engine was in and I was in the process of wiring it up.

 

Since then, the car is pretty much done and has actually driven the length of my drive under its own poewr, however between then and now has been a lot of work!

 

Job 1 - Finishing the wiring

 

This was relatively simple - I had built the entire engine loom off the car and now it was simply a case of feeding it through the bulkhead and putting the ECU plug on the end to enable my Emerald ECU to be hooked up. I decided that the ECU would live in the glove box and its currently attached to the bottom of the fusebox.

Next step was to mount the battery and provide a main positive feed into the engine bay. This is where that nice distribution post seen in previous posts would come in handy!

I decided that behind the passenger seat provided a good place for the battery - nice and low down and tucked away. I found a really nicely made battery tray on ebay, only weighs about 400g and is finished really well in a crackle powder coat.

 

Holes were drilled in the floor pan and the area underneath reinforced to take the battery.

 

​

 

Fits nicely!

Next job was to run a positive cable from this to the engine bay. I used an existing grommit in the bulkhead to pass the cable through. In hindsight I should have used a bulkhead connector for the main positive lead - This can be a job for the future.

 

​

You can see the red battery cable coming through the bulkhead and feeding the distribution post now. This enabled me to now power up the car and test the new loom and engine sensors.

 

The EW engine only has a single coolant sensor. Most 205's have a sensor for the temp gauge and a separate ECU sensor. Luckily, with a bit of searching, I found some early HDi engines used a multi function sensor with 3 pins - 2 for the ECU and a single pin for the coolant gauge on the dash. However, I didn't know the resistance curve for the Ecu settings, so had to find it out myself....

 

​

With the aid of a thermocouple attached to a digital multi meter, I was able to exactly match the sensor to the ECU from about 0 degrees up to almost 90 degrees C. Less than 0 degrees was guessed, using a line of best fit on the resulting resistance curve, as was above 90 degrees.

 

Job 2: The Exhaust

 

I bought a nice 2.25" mild steel exhaust from Miles (Pug Racing) on this forum. However, it still left the problem of the down pipe, which would have to be custom made. I didn't have a welder, I had never welded before in my life, so I was a bit stuck.

 

Using the Satchell Rh engine mount meant there was plenty of exhaust clearance using the standard EW manifold.

​

 

So I decided to change things.... and bought a welder. A nice R-tech 180amp MIG.

And so from these random parts (Excluding the padlock!!)

 

 

I made this (Clearly not completed in this shot however!)

 

 

Which enabled the exhaust to fit to the engine.... And it fitted like a glove!!

 

To be continued....

 

[RossD 44]

Job 3 - Radiator and Plumbing

 

The EW engine is very simple to plumb in - It has 2 hose connections on the thermostat housing for the main radiator connections and 2 at the back for the heater matrix connections. Luckily my old TU heater hoses were almost a perfect fit and along with a new heater matrix (the old one was starting to leak) that was the heater sorted.

 

The radiator itself was a little more challenging. There was no way the standard radiator would fit in its standard position along with the plastic cowling. So I decided to junk in completely and mount the radiator at an angle so it would fit.

 

I made up some aluminium mounts for the feet and riveted these to the car body. I utilised the standard rad rubber feet for vibration resistance.

If it looks messy, that is because it was, this was just the mocking up stage. I didn't take any photos of the finished mounts though. The bottom of the radiator has moved about 100mm forward, and the top only about 40mm forward, so it does sit at an angle, but this doesn't seem to be a problem.

 

Next job was to get the plumbing connected. The picture above shows the hoses mocked up - They exit below the bottom of the radiator (Using the standard 206 EW bottom radiator hose) and then run under the radiator to the right hand rad outlet. Obviously the hoses would need support, so I knocked up some simple mounts from some sheet aluminium

 

Next job - cooling fan. Because I had scrapped the standard 205 radiator cowling which would normally house the fan, a quick trip down the road to Car Builder Solutions saw the acquisition on a 10" slimline fan.

I had already made provisions for an ECU controlled, relay driven fan feed on my ECU loom, so wiring wasn't a problem. However, mounting it was. As the radiator had moved so far forward due to space constraints, there was no room at the front to mount the fan. SO I had to mount it on the engine side and turn it into a 'puller' fan.

 

Bit of a squeeze, but got it mounted and attached in the end!

 

Job 4: Gearshift

 

I cheated and bought a Satchshift for this.

 

 

Again - To be continued.

[j_turnell 137 3 Cars]

Nice work and really good project. Looks like your making a tidy job of the install also. I'm going to have to do something similar with the Rad on my v6. Have you considered a vr6 rad or alike? The outlet for the bottom hose is on the other side making a neater and shorter run for the pipe. I also found an 86' Audi 80 Cab is the same but appears to have a 8mm pipe for a bleed/return to header tank so I may use this, the vr6 and polo rad's don't have one.

Edited September 5, 2016 by j_turnell

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

I'm not keen on a wet battery inside the car not totally boxed in. Big shunt or a roll and there's battery acid everywhere. Needs either moving, boxing in, or a gel battery imo.

[RossD 44]

Good point Tom, not one I've considered until now. A gel battery would also present a nice weight saving also!

Once the project is complete and on the road, its certainly something I will look into with some priority.

[welshpug 1,661]

keep an eye on JJC on ebay, they often have them on offer.

[RossD 44]

Job 5 - Supporting the radiator grill

 

As I've got rid of the standard radiator cowling, there wasn't anywhere to mount the grill too. Also there was the small problem of the slam panel not being supported, which can cause the bonnet to lift at speed.

This isn't a job I'm particularly proud of, its not neat or pretty, but its effective. It supports both the slam panel and allows the grill to mount in the standard position. I'm not too worried about the looks, as its totally hidden with the grill and bumper on. It's essentially made of scrap aluminium I had lying around.....

 

But the grill now fits in exactly the correct position, so all good.

 

Job 6 - Lambda Sensor into exhuast

 

Well this one is self explanatory - Putting a lambda 'bung' into the downpipe I'd made a few weeks earlier.

 

Drill a big hole.

 

Place in bung and weld....

 

And high temp paint in a misguided attempt to make the exhaust last a little longer. Excuse the welding, I'm still learning! (Its penetrated and strong, neatness can come with experience!)

 

Job 7 - New front wheel bearing

 

I had managed to destroy the wheel bearing by moving the car around with no driveshafts in (Hub flange had moved and pulled bearing apart) so a new one was in order. Whilst I was there I stripped the hub clean, etch primed and painted, just to make it look a bit nicer.

 

Which kind of brings things up to date. Just lots of little jobs now - It moved under EW power for the first time yesterday, up and down the drive, so in 1st gear and reverse!

 

How it currently looks...

Edited September 5, 2016 by RossD

[RossD 44]

Photobucket seems to be having some issues, so if you can't see the pictures on this thread, blame them!

Edited October 14, 2016 by RossD

[welshpug 1,661]

I'm blaming you for using photobucket

[RossD 44]

True that..... I may use another provider moving forward, however I can't change the links in the historical posts

[BC Devile 3]

Really interested in this setup:

 

The only things i see being an issue for me is:

 

What Emerald ECU are you using ?

 

Also noticed the original throttle body is electronically control and see you have swapped if for a aftermarket cable operationing one. Where did you get this from?

 

Great build and thread so far btw.

 

Cheers Blair

[RossD 44]

Hi Blair - I'm using an Emerald K3, it's what i used on my previous throttle bodies engine, and is fine to use on this engine too. The throttle body is an ebay special, modified to fit on the inlet manifold. 70mm diameter, so it matches the original fly-by-wire throttle body.

[RossD 44]

Again a long overdue update.

Have been doing all the little annoying jobs over the winter and its pretty much now ready. Will be insuring it this week and so hopefully will get to get a proper drive over the coming weekend, to check all is good before it also gets an MOT.

To say I'm quite excited like a small child would be at Christmas, mixed with nervousness, is a bit of an understatement!

[RossD 44]

Well it had its first drive over the weekend, and I'm pleased to say nothing has broken or fallen off..... Yet!

The base map I had put into the Emerald was running lean across the board, so a few tweaks and the fueling is now 'safe'. Again, ignition timing is quite conservative, so until its mapped properly I suspect it won't be performing its best.

However - What a difference to the old TU 1.6 Throttle Bodied engine I had previously. That was quite peaky, not coming alive until around 3000ish rpm. This one pulls hard from idle. A mixture of an extra 400cc and tamer cams no doubt. One thing of note however, this engine is quite boring in the sound department. My old engine was a joy to behold, that sonorous induction howl. In comparison (And I realise I'm comparing a TB'd engine to one on a single throttle) the EW10 is quite flat in the sound department. Certainly doesnt have the character of the old TU!

 

I did put my foot down a couple of times in 2nd gear once the fueling was fattened out a bit. To give an idea of the performance, it pulled 2600rpm to 6800rpm in 2nd (So about 23mph to about 60mph) in 2.9 seconds. More to come as well, so its certainly not lacking in the performance stakes.....

 

Its currently insured but not yet MOT'd, so my test drives were limited to the back roads within a mile of where I live as I didnt want to push my luck. The car is ow tucked back up in its garage until Saturday morning, when it's MOT time.

Edited February 27, 2017 by RossD

[welshpug 1,661]

Its quite hard to compare from the driving seat as obviously the TU trumpets were pointing straight at you!

 

 

you need a drive by to get a more realistic comparison.

[RossD 44]

True. I was running a standard exhaust on the TU, and this one is running one of Miles 2-box 2.25" systems. SO whilst the TU was all induction noise, this one is induction plus exhaust.

Still not as nice sounding mind you!

[Anthony 1,003]

Clearly the solution is to put 'bodies on this EW engine too, giving you the best of all worlds

[RossD 44]

That is the long term goal!

I just need Colin Satchell to make me an inlet manifold on his CNC machine.... And buy some more throttle bodies. (I sold the old engine and inlet setup to another member on here)

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Did you keep the hydro clutch or convert to cable (using Berlingo bits)?

 

That is the long term goal!

I just need Colin Satchell to make me an inlet manifold on his CNC machine.... And buy some more throttle bodies. (I sold the old engine and inlet setup to another member on here)

 

I may well be interested in a manifold too. Great project!

[welshpug 1,661]

that's 3 at least then! do you guys have an inlet to use for the flange/tubes? though from memory the runners do taper together so might not be as suitable as the xu10 inlets.

Edited March 1, 2017 by welshpug

[RossD 44]

Alan - At the moment I'm using a self-adjusting clutch cable from a Berlingo / 306. Its not ideal, but seems to be working at the moment. The cable ends do need modifying slightly to fit the 205 pedal box and then allow a sufficient amount of pedal travel. Again, another long term item to look at is a conversion to a hydraulic setup.

 

As for an inlet flange - I only have the manifold I'm using at the moment. However, I suspect its probably not much effort to rapid prototype an inlet flange and let the CNC machine machine it. I suspect Colin just needs to have sufficient demand and time to make the numbers add up. Admittedly last time I phoned them they didn't have any immediate plans to make an EW manifold, but that was 18 months ago.

Edited March 2, 2017 by RossD

[dcc 855]

I pester one of the Satchel guys on a weekly basis for an inlet. Current status is they are too busy with clio stuff!