[trackday_prep] Project 150

[RossD 44]

Well this weekend I've gone from these:

 

To these:

 

I've 'hard' piped the brake lines like they are in the 306\Xsara, i.e no flexible section to the caliper. Seems to work ok. Bedded them in with some use of the handbrake whilst driving and it seems to have done the trick. Pedal travel a bit long but then it's running on a 19mm master cylinder, so an upgrade to 20.6mm might be on the cards. No backplate either, I'm going to see if it causes any problems running without one.

 

I got the brakes a bit too hot whilst bedding them in as I burnt my hand after touching the wheelbolts after coming back from a drive, doh!

Edited July 4, 2010 by RossD

[swordfish210 20]

Nice work Ross, i shouldn't worry about the back plate as i haven't had one on the 205 or the 306 since i've been running discs and i've had no issues yet.

[Sergio205 0]

Well this weekend I've gone from these:

 

To these:

 

I've 'hard' piped the brake lines like they are in the 306\Xsara, i.e no flexible section to the caliper. Seems to work ok. Bedded them in with some use of the handbrake whilst driving and it seems to have done the trick. Pedal travel a bit long but then it's running on a 19mm master cylinder, so an upgrade to 20.6mm might be on the cards. No backplate either, I'm going to see if it causes any problems running without one.

 

I got the brakes a bit too hot whilst bedding them in as I burnt my hand after touching the wheelbolts after coming back from a drive, doh!

 

 

Was it a direct swap from drums to a disc break set up or did yuo change the axle studs as well? I heard that axle studs are differnet in lenth for drums and discs and I wonder?

[RossD 44]

Was it a direct swap from drums to a disc break set up or did yuo change the axle studs as well? I heard that axle studs are differnet in lenth for drums and discs and I wonder?

 

I changed the stub axles to the disc types (5mm longer). I also mounted the caliper bracket to the rear arm and also fitted 1.9 pressure limiters to the brake lines.

Calipers are the later Bosch made ones from a 206 GTi which I stripped down and put new seals on etc. (30mm piston so same as the 205 ones).

Edited July 5, 2010 by RossD

[Sergio205 0]

I changed the stub axles to the disc types (5mm longer). I also mounted the caliper bracket to the rear arm and also fitted 1.9 pressure limiters to the brake lines.

Calipers are the later Bosch made ones from a 206 GTi which I stripped down and put new seals on etc. (30mm piston so same as the 205 ones).

 

Copy - thanks!

A have a couple of more questions because I am going to follow your foot steps and swap the drums on my car:

1. Was it so critical to swap stub axles - are these extra 5 mm so critical from your point of view? May be you have a photo of the nut on the stub?

2. Is there a spacer between the hub and the radius arm on your set up? I know that on 206 there are 5 mm metal rings on the stub axles to space hub from the bracket of the caliper?

Sergio

[RossD 44]

Yep, the longer stubs axles are critical as the drum ones would be way too short - The nut would be hanging off the end on a shorter drum braked stub and you would not be able to 'stake' the nut into the cutout.

There is also a spacer behind the hub, about 4 - 5mm wide I'd say. If you look at the diagram below its the part labelled 'C'

 

 

I asked Peugeot Sport in France about stub axles and they said that the ones they sell for the 206 \ 306 will fit and these are 110mm long. Only 15 Euros each too. In fact if you cannot find a 205 setup to use I'm pretty sure you'd be able to use the 306 stuff.

Edited July 9, 2010 by RossD

[Sergio205 0]

Yep, the longer stubs axles are critical as the drum ones would be way too short - The nut would be hanging off the end on a shorter drum braked stub and you would not be able to 'stake' the nut into the cutout.

There is also a spacer behind the hub, about 4 - 5mm wide I'd say. If you look at the diagram below its the part labelled 'C'

 

 

I asked Peugeot Sport in France about stub axles and they said that the ones they sell for the 206 \ 306 will fit and these are 110mm long. Only 15 Euros each too. In fact if you cannot find a 205 setup to use I'm pretty sure you'd be able to use the 306 stuff.

 

Thanks again. Could you do a favor for me and give me a proper link to Peugeot Sport in France to speak about shipment of the stub axles to Russia?

[timstemi16 0]

great work mate, i love these little engines there so simple and i found my 205 xs just wanted to rev. always wanted to do something like this and wish i had with all the problems my mi16 has given me

[RossD 44]

Stub axle part number: 739754-02

Email peugeotsport-racingshop@peugeot.com and they are pretty helpful. They speak English too.

Edited July 10, 2010 by RossD

[Lan 24 1 Cars]

I changed the stub axles to the disc types (5mm longer). I also mounted the caliper bracket to the rear arm and also fitted 1.9 pressure limiters to the brake lines.

Calipers are the later Bosch made ones from a 206 GTi which I stripped down and put new seals on etc. (30mm piston so same as the 205 ones).

 

did you have to do anything or were the bosch calipers direct replacement, ifso what model were they off and which year?

 

Thanks

[RossD 44]

The Bosch calipers are identical to the Bendix ones, it just seems they were manufactured by Bosch instead of Bendix after about 1999 or 2000. Easy way to tell is the handbrake levers are different on the calipers.

[Sergio205 0]

Stub axle part number: 739754-02

Email peugeotsport-racingshop@peugeot.com and they are pretty helpful. They speak English too.

 

 

Thanks! Just e-mailed them, hope they ship to Russia.

[RossD 44]

Usually takes them a few days to respond I've found. Another way is to add the items to your cart in the webshop and they then contact you about shipping etc.

[RossD 44]

My Engine fell out!

 

I knew something was up as there was a knocking noise, even worse when pulling away. Driving very gently because of this I just about managed to limp back home, when at the last set of traffic lights I was pulling away and...... BANG. The righthand engine mount failed, letting the engine drop and move forward.

 

Pictures below - Excuse the quality, they're low-res phone images.

 

Failed Weld

 

Failed and twisted

 

 

Turns out that although neat and nice looking the original welding on the mount was, it hadn't penetrated properly and was the weak point. The weld failed, causing the engine to fall out and take the rubber mount screwed into the inner wing with it.

 

I stripped the powder coat off with a blow torch more akin to removing white lines on a road and got a mate to reweld the mount (properly this time!). We also strengthened the mount by welding some gussets into some of the joints. (You can just make them out in the last picture). New engine mount, refit the bracket and she's back up and running again (Although with a leaking radiator, as the engine fell forward onto it.

Edited January 29, 2011 by RossD

[miamichris 9]

Jesus Ross, you're lucky that didn't fail at any great speed!

 

At least its sorted now and fixed properly, nice project btw

[RossD 44]

Yea, tell me about it!!

 

Sam had this mount on his Rallye before I had it - It wasn't one I made, I'm not sure who did to be honest.

 

It's not going to fail now though, it's been remade properly

[Sam 4]

Hey Ross, I'm sorry to read about the engine mount issue you had. A friend of mine made it but I guess he rushed it! Hope everything else is going well...

[RossD 44]

Haha, no probs! We welded it back up and added some gussets on some of the bends to beef it up!

[RossD 44]

Well the old girl is still sitting in the garage and I'm hoping to get her going again soon for some fun... She needs a little work doing (Full service, inc cambelt) and a new MOT etc but nothing major.

Can't wait

[allye 530 3 Cars]

Nice to see a update on this, one of my favorite threads going. Get her up and running and make it to Pugfest 14'!

[RossD 44]

Well, I'm happy to report that its all go for the old girl again now!

Hopefully book her in for an MOT in the next couple of weeks, just a small issue to fix on the front NS indicator - a corroded multiplug somewhere on the area is causing a problem.

 

Shes had a good machine polish and wax, Dynax S50 cavity wax injected into all the sills, box sections and common corrosion points on these cars. I've tidied up a lot and improved a lot of the wiring (including adding fuses into the ECU and injector/coil feeds). I've also been playing with the ECU mapping to get the cold start perfected and also the accelerator pump settings.

I put a new cambelt and tensioner on a few weeks ago - literally a 20 minute job on these engines as access is so good.

 

Its got a new air filter setup on too, which was a total a*se of a job to fit (believe it or not!) and I've got a brand new, old stock brake servo from a LHD 205 to go on (if it will fit) that will hopefully give a little more clearance for the air filter (As I believe its slightly shallower than the base model, even thought it's a larger diameter)

 

Edited March 25, 2014 by RossD

[Sam 4]

Still sounding awesome I hope :-)

[RossD 44]

Of course! I'll take a couple of videos when its back on the road for aural delights.

[RossD 44]

Wohoo, MOT passed, no advisories either!

Brakes were a little low on the rollers, but they had been sitting for 3 years and the discs were a bit corroded. Got 194kgf and 205kgf force on the fronts (247mm vented discs and ATE calipers) and 69 and 72kgf on the rears (1.9GTi discs and inline compensators) wihch is about right.

 

Emissions also nice and low, 1.01% CO (Limit 3.5%) and 310 ppm HC (limit >1000ppm) so pleased with that.

 

Only issue is that once the oil had warmed up on the way to the MOT centre, I was getting the oil pressure light flicker at idle evey now and again at idle sitting in traffic. Worrying.

I changed the oil when I got home, old oil had been sitting in the sump for 4 years, but done very few miles. After the oil change I took it out for a long drive and got it quite got (Vertical point on the oil temp gauge, so between 90 - 110 degrees) and it didnt do it again. However, it's still playing on my mind so I'm going to get a pressure gauge on it to see what's going on. When cold, the presure light goes off instantly (cranking on the starter will turn it off) however when hot, no amount of cranking in the starter will turn the light off, however, as soon as the engine fires, its off pretty instantly.

 

Just need to get out and enjoy it now after I've measure oil pressure!

Edited April 7, 2014 by RossD

[Anthony 1,003]

Old mineral oil does degrade over time and give oil pressure issues.

 

Had the same on a friends 205 Mi16 that had been sat parked up for 2-3 years or so and the oil pressure light would be lit solidly at idle once the oil was warm. Changed the oil and filter and the oil pressure was spot on again afterwards, showing around 1.5 bar at idle on the gauge (warning light is around 0.5 bar)

 

Obviously no harm in checking with a proper oil pressure gauge to put your mind at rest though