choco 0 Posted June 14, 2007 Hi, This project is really doing my nut in. The car starts, but that's it. It idles ok, a little rough but it doesn't rev. It smells of petrol and the plugs are sooty. This is what i did so far; New coil new ignition amp new sparkplugs new leads new dizzy Checked the camshaft timing. Checked the values from the sensors to the ECU. They all checked out, only wasn't to sure about pin 1 (signal from ign. amp) It should be: switching 0 to nbv, i measured 0.7V at idle, and up to 1.5V when i tried to rev. Also the CAS was pretty high, it should be; AC 14V @ idle but it was 18V. The rest was fine. Double checked the AFM plug, the resistance between the pins was like it should be. Triple checked the CTS, but the resistance between the pins is dropping down nicely when getting warm, and going up when cooling off. So that means that it isn't broken right? Last week a guy came by with a fault reader and a pc. The faultreader didn't read any faults, but the pc couldn't establish a connection to my ECU?? Hope you've got some ideas, because i've red just about every topic on the forum now, and i can't come up with anything new. Cheers, Johnny Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
choco 0 Posted June 14, 2007 Oh, it might come in handy knowing it's a 205 gti, with a 405 Mi16 cat bottom, mi16 or BX16v without cat top and loom, and a motronic ML4. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smckeown 1 Posted June 14, 2007 Well my overfueling was due to nackered rings and liners. A compression check might be useful Sean Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
choco 0 Posted June 14, 2007 Thanx, one thing i haven't checked yet... I'll try to buy a compressionmeter tomorrow. Cheers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whizzer71 0 Posted June 15, 2007 Or more importantly a leak down test ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
choco 0 Posted June 16, 2007 Ok, did a compressioncheck today, and the compression was good. How do i do a leak test? Cheers, Johnny Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whizzer71 0 Posted June 17, 2007 You need a specialist bit of equipment,a compressor and an air line,It has two guages on it one that measures how much air pressure you have going in and the other reads whether it is a good or bad amount. Ie excessivly high amount,poor sealing of the rings or valves,or low amount good sealing of rings & valves,its normally good for identifying worn rings or a poorly seating valve. A decent garage should have one,or maybe engine tuning specialist. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
choco 0 Posted June 19, 2007 Hi again, Thanx for your help, found the problem. It turned out to be the ECU, probably waterdamage. But now i have a new problem... It was still stuttering and misfiring, so i changed the new (unknown brand) coil for my old one, and it became much better. I could actually drive in it! It idled fine, it began to stutter between 2k and 6k, full throttle it was fine again. So i also changed the ign. amp again, which came from the same shop as the coil. Again a slight improvement, could rev to 3k without stuttering. But... after 3 miles the engine begun to cut out, de revcounter drops to 0 and then comes on again, followed by a serious backfire... This is obviously ignition related, but what? My earths are good, and changed about every single part that has to do with the ignition. Should i buy a new coil again? Cheers, Johnny Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whizzer71 0 Posted June 19, 2007 (edited) Hi again, Thanx for your help, found the problem. It turned out to be the ECU, probably waterdamage. But now i have a new problem... It was still stuttering and misfiring, so i changed the new (unknown brand) coil for my old one, and it became much better. I could actually drive in it! It idled fine, it began to stutter between 2k and 6k, full throttle it was fine again. So i also changed the ign. amp again, which came from the same shop as the coil. Again a slight improvement, could rev to 3k without stuttering. But... after 3 miles the engine begun to cut out, de revcounter drops to 0 and then comes on again, followed by a serious backfire... This is obviously ignition related, but what? My earths are good, and changed about every single part that has to do with the ignition. Should i buy a new coil again? Cheers, Johnny Have u checked dissy cap and rotor arm,the carbon in the middle of the cap has a habit of burning away/dissapearing anf the rotor arms can suffer a bit too,also how good are the leads and plugs,and is the amp you fitted the original one off your car or the Mi ?,Try another amp the std Gti ones are the same as the Mi ones,maybe try another t.d.c sensor if you know some one that you could swap with possibly ? Also dont be lulled into thinking that it may be ign related it could be a fuelling prob too,Have you changed the fuel filter and are all the injectors ok ?. Good Luck Edited June 19, 2007 by whizzer71 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
choco 0 Posted June 30, 2007 Hi, Problem solved. It turned out to be the ign. amp, even though i already changed it 2 times with brand new ones. It only seemes to run with a bosch, not with anything else even if they cost as much. But me very happy now! Cheers, Johnny Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whizzer71 0 Posted July 2, 2007 (edited) Yep I had the exactly the same problem with a BX 16v Years ago,Aftermarket so called "Replacement" Items are rubbish ! Glad you sorted it ! Tristan Edited July 2, 2007 by whizzer71 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
