frodo_monkey 0 Posted May 12, 2007 Hi all, I've just replumbed my brake lines on my 1.6, from MC into the car to a bias valve, then from the bias valve out to a T piece then to the rear calipers. Unfortunately when I tried to bleed them this morning, fluid is weeing out from the bias valve... And I'm meant to be racing the thing next Saturday! I figure the problem is that I've made crap flares (I used a Machine Mart flaring kit) - and I'd rather have confidence in the brakes if I need to go hammering into a corner So does anyone in Yorkshire want to earn some beer tokens to come over, do the flares properly and help me bleed them off? I have tools, tea/coffee and some cashish for anybody who would be kind enough to come and help me out of an evening - any night from this Sunday through to next Friday would be great Cheers in advance, Frodo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
max0 5 Posted May 12, 2007 Hi all, I've just replumbed my brake lines on my 1.6, from MC into the car to a bias valve, then from the bias valve out to a T piece then to the rear calipers. Unfortunately when I tried to bleed them this morning, fluid is weeing out from the bias valve... And I'm meant to be racing the thing next Saturday! I figure the problem is that I've made crap flares (I used a Machine Mart flaring kit) - and I'd rather have confidence in the brakes if I need to go hammering into a corner So does anyone in Yorkshire want to earn some beer tokens to come over, do the flares properly and help me bleed them off? I have tools, tea/coffee and some cashish for anybody who would be kind enough to come and help me out of an evening - any night from this Sunday through to next Friday would be great Cheers in advance, Frodo Alright Si, as always willin to help. Think ive got some pipe etc spair from when i did mine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted May 12, 2007 What bias valve is it? as the cheap one's can be a pain to seal hence why I only use AP ones but it's at least double the cost for those, You could always get some braded lines made up for it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted May 12, 2007 Si, if you can tell me the pipe lengths you have made up & the union thread size I could make some pipes up with my garage spec pipe flaring tool in advance so it'll be an easy job or bring the flaring kit with me & make them at yours if you have a vice. I'm working Until Wednesday but could possibly come up Wednesday evening with everything to help sort it out. Have you got a pressure bleeder? Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
frodo_monkey 0 Posted May 13, 2007 Hi all, Thanks everybody for the speedy replies - I wouldn't ask unless it was desperate! £175 (non-refundable) race entry fee and no brakes at the mo means that missing the race is a REAL pisser... But racing could be more costly My brake bias valve is made by Allstar performance (yes, el cheapo I know...): I installed it with one line from the MC to the bias valve, one from the bias valve to the T piece under the rear seat pan, then one line from there to the copper line coming out of the Goodridge hose on the OSR caliper (if that makes sense). I used std M10x1 male fittings throughout, apart from the end of the copper line running under the rear seat pan - had to use a female fitting on one side. I think the fittings could be the problem - I used M10x1 throughout, rather than the ones that came with the valve... The blurb that came with the valve says 'Two 1/8"-27 NPT to 3/8" Inverted flare fittings are supplied to install 3/16" doble flared brake lines to the valve'. I just used single flared fittings into the M10x1 fittings and screwed them into the bias valve. Presume this is where I was a cock? I have a few pictures on P'bucket of the differences between the two fittings (bias valve ones on the left, std males on the right): http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P5130010.jpg http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P5130015.jpg http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P5130016.jpg I also didn't double flare them Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
frodo_monkey 0 Posted May 13, 2007 (edited) So Graham, could I please take you up on your kind offer to make me some new ones? (I have also pretty much destroyed the unions on the pipes I made trying to do them up tight - I know, I'm a mong ) The lengths are below: MC to bias valve - 195cm (male to male, bias valve fitting reqd on one end) Bias valve to T piece - 140cm (male to male, bias valve fitting reqd on one end) T piece under rear seat pan - 40cm (male to female) All in 3/16" pipe, natch I'll obviously make it well worth your while with cash, considering the short notice Si EDIT - I don't have an Eezibleed type bleeder, however I do have one of those Halfrauds 'tube from bleed nipple into plastic tub via clear hose' type things (sorry for the technical terms ) EDIT 2 - I didn't use Loctite or that paper Threadlok stuff on the unions either - should I have? Edited May 13, 2007 by frodo_monkey Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted May 13, 2007 I can do them if one of the others don't have chance, but I can't fetch 'em over as my car's dead. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted May 14, 2007 Si, its probably best if you to get some of the correct fittings & a roll of brake pipe. I'll bring my flaring kit with me so we can remake the pipes as needed. Its a quick job to make the flares up with my kit so it won't take long to do them on Wednesday. At least that way we'll have the correct thread on the unions for the bias valve. I'll bring my Easibleed kit with me as well. You shouldn't need to use any loctite on the unions imo, I never have anyway but all flares should be double iirc. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
