Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
chris 417 mi

Mi16 Head Torque Settings

Recommended Posts

chris 417 mi

Anyone advise the torque settings for the head bolts on an early mi16 head ?

 

Been warned away from haynes and cant really find any as such so far :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ryan

The Pumaracing site suggests doing them up to 75 lbft in three stages (25, 50, 75). The normal way stretches them some ridiculous amount.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
chris 417 mi

Dont suppose you have a link to the site do you ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
petert

I know people who have tried Puma's method and have had weeping head geaskets over time. Your choice, but a set of head bolts isn't very expensive.

 

Stage I - 60Nm

Stage II - slacken, the 20Nm

Stage III - 300 degrees

 

The final stage is easy if you have an engine stand, breaker bar and quality torx socket.

Edited by petert

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
chris 417 mi

engine is on a stand and i have brand new genuine peugeot head bolts waiting to go on .... is this method 100% for sure then ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pug_ham

Like petert says but from Autodata;

Stage 1; 60Nm.

Stage 2; individually slacken off & tighten to 20Nm then 100' + 100' +100' inturn.

 

Graham.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Mikey S

if you tap the bolt holes and use a litle copper slip on the threads and under the bolt heads they torque down alot easier, especially when you have to angle tighten them :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
chris 417 mi

cheers for the replys, head will be going back on tonight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James_m

I did mine using the Pumaracing method , and my head gasket blew F1 style today. Not advisable

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James_m

I probably should add the outcome to this defence of Puma's method....

The head gasket did'nt blow, the sensor on the back of the block unwound itself hammering into the bulkhead somewhere, making a horrible metallic noise, and then all the oil getting splashed onto the exhaust manifold led me to beleive the HG had gone.

I thought smoke was leaking out of the back of the headgasket itself somewhere. My bad, and make sure those sensors are done up tight!

It really was F1 style though :blush:

Edited by James_m

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Richie-Van-GTi

I believe he put the head on last night as per QEP advice which is the same as petert and graham etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
matty_gti
I believe he put the head on last night as per QEP advice which is the same as petert and graham etc.

 

I did my 8v head bolts up the same way and one of the bolts stripped out the thread in the block so im considering next doing my headblots up the puma racing way but now im paraniod that there either going to be to tight, or not tight enough!! :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Mikey S
if you tap the bolt holes and use a litle copper slip on the threads and under the bolt heads they torque down alot easier, especially when you have to angle tighten them :blink:

 

 

:P:P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
madvalver

Longmans advised to me go to 65lbft in stages(seemed tight enough). Use gen pug gasket. No idea if mines any good yet as havent run it in anger. But its going to be a track toy so if it go's, its go's!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jonnie205

the 300 degrees is very scary and has resulted in me snapping one bolt and stripping the block in another. I now go to 80ft lbs in 3 stages and i find this has been fine. The degrees way can be ok but i would go to 200 not 300

Edited by jonnie205

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Richie-Van-GTi

Ive done the 300 degree method on a few engines and never had issues with snapped bolts or stripped threads. Ive always used new bolts and copper slip though, as well as cleaning threads before fitting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
matty_gti
the 300 degrees is very scary and has resulted in me snapping one bolt and stripping the block in another. I now go to 80ft lbs in 3 stages and i find this has been fine. The degrees way can be ok but i would go to 200 not 300

 

I thought giving a little more that 75ft lbs, like 80ft lbs would have been a better option, just that little tighter.

 

Longmans advised to me go to 65lbft in stages(seemed tight enough). Use gen pug gasket. No idea if mines any good yet as havent run it in anger. But its going to be a track toy so if it go's, its go's!

 

But i dont get the "65ft lbs in 3 stages"?...surely that isnt tight enough?

 

Ive done the 300 degree method on a few engines and never had issues with snapped bolts or stripped threads. Ive always used new bolts and copper slip though, as well as cleaning threads before fitting.

 

I cleaned the threads and used the 'modydulihkuawgsfkgqkef' (somthing or rather!) grease it states in the haynes but thats when it strippped the thread.

Edited by matty_gti

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James_m

I dont know if the alloy blocks degrade over time, but pretty much all the threads on my block were very weak, with a few stripping.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
petert

That's not a major problem. Just helicoil them if they strip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
matty_gti
That's not a major problem. Just helicoil them if they strip.

 

But doesnt that leave you a problem when you need to change the HG in future?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug
But doesnt that leave you a problem when you need to change the HG in future?

 

not at all, its simply an insert for the bolt to thread into, many expensive bicycle parts have inserts in alloy parts for bolts to thread into.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

×