Higgy 0 Posted May 11, 2007 Hi, Me & a friend are tackling another Mi conversion this time with 2-row ECU/loom (why do I bother ). Current issues: 1. There are two spade connectors near the ECU plug. No. 15 a white wire & a green/yellow wire (no doubt an earth). What is the No. 15 wire and does it need to be connected? 2. Is it possible to test the ECU to see if it is working? We have power going to it. Ideally is there anyone near the Coventry area that we could take our ECU to, and try it in their car? 3. There is 12V going to the fuel & injector relays, but the ECU does not seem to be operating the relays. 4. Also there is no spark. Thanks, Higgy. P.S. Althernatively does anyone have a box of matches? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted May 12, 2007 What car is the loom from? I'm guessing a 405 Mi. Looking at the 405 Haynes diagrams, wire 15 comes from pin 15 on the ecu plug & is for the ionjection coding resistor. (un-used afaik) The green / yellow wire is probably M146 which runs from the other side of the coding resistor but the car should run without it. Mine hasn't got one but its in the Haynes diagram. There is only one wire from the cu plug that runs to any of the relays & its from pin 20 to the tachymetric (green) relay. For the spark, have you earthed the ignition module? IIRC on a 405 loom it is wired with the main loom earths but on a BX loom its seperate wire that runs from the module plug. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Higgy 0 Posted May 13, 2007 Cheers for reply. IT LIVES In the end it was because numerious loom wires had come apart in our engine bay tidying!! I got my mate to use bullet connectors to temporally join the 405 loom to the 205 loom, because I thought I might have got it wrong, so would be easy to change. About 5 wires had popped out and were hidden by the plastic conduit & tape. The engine is not too happy , it has been sat for a long time. It seems to be starting better every time but does not turn on the first turn of the key. The main problem is when the throttle is opened a lot & quickly you can hear lots of air rushing in but there does not seem to be the fuel to burn it and the engine dies? My mate was changing the fuel pressure regulator when I left, and we were going to check the fuel pump + injectors. Tried a couple of AFM's/coils/ignition amp but it is still the same. Dizzy cap + rotor arm & ign leads are known to be good, so maybe fueling issue? Would be nice to get the engine running well, then we want to pull it back out and change the big end shells + water pump. Higgy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites