M_R_205 5 1 Cars Posted May 10, 2007 well last night i was bored so i thought, i know, il strip down the buggerd 1.4 engine (snaped cam belt) it was fairly easy abd iv kept everything in order so i know where it goes etc any way firstly, do the liners all have to go back where they came from? and do the pistons have to go back into the same liners? seccondly do the head bolts and the bolts that hold the crank in have to go back in the same places, im probably going to replace the head bolts (depending on cost as im skint) should i also replace the crank bolts?? my fina questin, i have a mate of a mate of a mate who can get things anodised, would the be any problems anodising the block and head??? il probably put some pics up tonight cheers Paul Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WildCards 0 Posted May 10, 2007 (edited) My Mi has recently been rebuilt, I farmed it out as opposed to the DIY approach, but I was told everything should go back where it came from, liners, pistons etc so they fit right. The head bolts should be replaced as they are stretch bolts and are likely to snap if your stretching them again. The crank bolts should be cool though. As for anodising I haven't a clue i'm afraid. I imagine the same principles apply to all engines though. Edited May 10, 2007 by WildCards Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M_R_205 5 1 Cars Posted May 10, 2007 thats cool, i was just going to throw everything into bags but il leave them all all layed out, im guessing all the valve train etc has to go back into the same places too? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan 99 Posted May 10, 2007 Try as much as possible to put things back where they came from - pistons are matched to liners, big-end caps to rods, main bearing caps, etc. This is especially important on the top end. If you're not sure then asume it needs to go back in the same place - it's better to be too carefull than not careful enought! Always replace the head bolts. Although the pumaracing site has an alternative tightening sequence that would let you re-use them in future. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M_R_205 5 1 Cars Posted May 10, 2007 thanks for the advice iv bin as careful as i could undoing everything a quater turn at a time and keeping everything matched up iv just bought myself a valve spring compressor si il pull all the valves out tomorrow at work and then start de greasing everything, does anyone know where i can get a new cam cover from mines a litle crushed where the bolts tighten it down cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RossD 44 Posted May 11, 2007 thanks for the advice iv bin as careful as i could undoing everything a quater turn at a time and keeping everything matched up iv just bought myself a valve spring compressor si il pull all the valves out tomorrow at work and then start de greasing everything, does anyone know where i can get a new cam cover from mines a litle crushed where the bolts tighten it down cheers Scrappy is probably your best bet, whenever I go to my local one there are dozens of cars with TU engines! If it doesn't leak oil though it will be fine, those two nuts don't need to be tight at all. Also be careful with the big end bearing cap orientation, they have to go back on the way they were taken off! Good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
